The surging starts after the car warms up and has been driven 10-15 miles. Then after surging for a few miles the engine light comes on and then car runs fine. It was a code 17, so I replaced the O2 sensor. But the car still surges and then light comes on again with same code. I replace the O2 sensor again with another brand new Bosch with the single wire. Still have the same problem. In the manual under code 17 everything points to the O2 sensor. The car runs fine with the light on, but some times the light won’t come on, on short trips. I have done several searches. All other code 17 were fixed with a new O2 sensor. Anyone every had a problem the Bosch single wire? Anyone have any other ideas?

 

I think you'd have to start thinking about a broken wire, or bad connection somewhere. The O2 sensor seems to have it's own ground at the back of the UIM. Have you tried cleaning that connection, and making sure there's a good engine to chassis ground?

No reason to say that's your problem. Just trying to throw out some ideas. No way you could have that many bad O2 sensors.

Good luck,

 

I would make sure that your exhaust is properly grounded. From the factory there is a braided ground wire from cat / cat-back pipe joint to the chassis.

 

yes, listen to dvandit
i had the same problem with one of my '93's, exacltly the same.
i upgraded all my major grounds around the car and problem solved.

 

Right before this started I had the cat back off. After I replaced the first O2 (with no inprovement), I checked the ground (cat / cat back joint) and found it loose. So, I replace the O2 again. When I found that loose ground I thought I had found the problem. Unfortunately that was not the problem. Although I did buy 2 new ground straps. I'm going to add them to the exhaust system and motor tonight.

 

I think it is a ground problem. Everybody needs to add grounds anyways, so add your's and get back to us.

 

Do you think a bad ground will ruin a brand new O2? I don't know if Napa will replace it for me again.

 

Hmmm well I believe it could. I'am not an electrical engineer but if it was bucking when it didn't have enough grounds, isn't that like a short or power surge, or something. If you can mess up a car battery like that I'am sure anything electrical is game. I just put my o2 sensor in and had the surging from not enough grounds. It didn't kill it.

 

I think the extra grounds might have fix it. One from cat / DP to heat shield bolt and one from UIM to map sensor bracket bolt. I only had enough time for a short test drive last night. My test drive was surge free. Hope it stays that way.

 

Not to sure if this applies, but maybe you need to reset the ECU. Disconnect the battery, step on the brake pedal a couple times, re-connect and take it for a spin.

Frank

 

Yes I did that before, my test drive.
Thanks

 

hmm... my 93 jerks a lot while deaccelerating (right before comming to stop), do you guy think its the grouding problem?

anyone tried Pettit grounding wire kit?

 

Just go to any auto parts store and buy a uninsulated grounding strap, 8" or 12" and bolt from motor to body. Just make sure you scrap off the paint where ever your grounding.

 

why uninsulated?

 

Thier cheaper and it doesn't need to be insulated. None of the metal on your car insulated, is it? Uninsulated is also lighter.

 

Hmm. Well I jus' bought 8 gauge monster cable ground - insulated. It is cheap and I figure the uninsulated would oxidize more quickly.

thanks for the reply.

 

whats the best place on the motor and the best place on the frame to connect it too?

 

I have 1 from the "Y" pipe to the right fender, a bolt that hold the fan relays in place. The second from the UIM to the fire wall, the bolt that hold the map sencor in place. These may not be the best places, they were the easiest for me. Just back sure your connecting bare metal to bare metal.