Stupid question #43 - Engine operating temp -
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Stupid question #43 - Engine operating temp -
I've read a lot about the FD can get too hot. I've also read a lot about how if they aren't allowed to warm up after a start that there can be starting problems due to flooding or carbon lock. What I haven't been able to find yet is what temperature is considered "warmed up". If I'm going to move the car or drive it a very short distance, what should the engine coolant temp be before shutting it down to avoid starting problems?
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do you have an aftermarked colant temp gauge or the stock one, and if the stock one has it been converted to linear. since your asking this, i would assume its stock and hasnt been converted to linear.
with that out of the way, generally from my experience, driving it before its warmed up doesn't lead to starting problems or flooding, but shutting the engine off before it has reached NOT, such as short drives to the store or whatever, will lead to flooding.
thats my .02
with that out of the way, generally from my experience, driving it before its warmed up doesn't lead to starting problems or flooding, but shutting the engine off before it has reached NOT, such as short drives to the store or whatever, will lead to flooding.
thats my .02
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with that out of the way, generally from my experience, driving it before its warmed up doesn't lead to starting problems or flooding, but shutting the engine off before it has reached NOT, such as short drives to the store or whatever, will lead to flooding.
thats my .02
thats my .02
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I've got a Defi-D coolant gauge.
That is my question. I didn't express it very well. I'm trying to avoid shutting the engine down before it has reached NOT. The question: What is NOT? ie, how warm should a cold engine be so that it is "safe" to shut it down? ie should I wait until the coolant temp is 140F, 160F, 180F ?
That is my question. I didn't express it very well. I'm trying to avoid shutting the engine down before it has reached NOT. The question: What is NOT? ie, how warm should a cold engine be so that it is "safe" to shut it down? ie should I wait until the coolant temp is 140F, 160F, 180F ?
"for optimal performance the ECU wants to see a water temp reading of no less than 180. Below that point, the computer is still is warm up/protective mode. Solenoids, secondary butterflies and injectors all work as if the car was still cold. This is especially a problem on the highway since temps will drop below the 180 mark and get pretty close to 170. The difference in the minimum running temperature on the highway at around 70 mph is only about 10 degrees, and as it turns out, that's 10 degrees too cold. "
Hope it helps, from what i can see NOT is 180F
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this is what i found on FD3S.net
"for optimal performance the ECU wants to see a water temp reading of no less than 180. Below that point, the computer is still is warm up/protective mode. Solenoids, secondary butterflies and injectors all work as if the car was still cold. This is especially a problem on the highway since temps will drop below the 180 mark and get pretty close to 170. The difference in the minimum running temperature on the highway at around 70 mph is only about 10 degrees, and as it turns out, that's 10 degrees too cold. "
Hope it helps, from what i can see NOT is 180F
"for optimal performance the ECU wants to see a water temp reading of no less than 180. Below that point, the computer is still is warm up/protective mode. Solenoids, secondary butterflies and injectors all work as if the car was still cold. This is especially a problem on the highway since temps will drop below the 180 mark and get pretty close to 170. The difference in the minimum running temperature on the highway at around 70 mph is only about 10 degrees, and as it turns out, that's 10 degrees too cold. "
Hope it helps, from what i can see NOT is 180F
180f is when the thermostat is fully open
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here's a thread all about warming up the FD before you drive it
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ng+temperature
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ng+temperature
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but i did find that most people have a 87F water temp
Last edited by RotorDream; 12-31-07 at 01:25 AM.
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Thanks for the info. I found and read that thread, which was helpful. The primary concern there was making sure the engine was warm enough before driving it hard, not necessarily shutting down a cold engine, but it was helpful.
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I've got a Defi-D coolant gauge.
That is my question. I didn't express it very well. I'm trying to avoid shutting the engine down before it has reached NOT. The question: What is NOT? ie, how warm should a cold engine be so that it is "safe" to shut it down? ie should I wait until the coolant temp is 140F, 160F, 180F ?
That is my question. I didn't express it very well. I'm trying to avoid shutting the engine down before it has reached NOT. The question: What is NOT? ie, how warm should a cold engine be so that it is "safe" to shut it down? ie should I wait until the coolant temp is 140F, 160F, 180F ?
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Most problems come when people start there car up to move it from the garage to the drive way to was it of say you got home, left it in the drive way and go out to move it back into the garage for the night (or next use) and it won't start the next time. It's never been an issue for me to take it around the block before putting it away, short drives to the store are not an issue it's the start move short distance (as stated) and shutting off. If your car floods after a short trip to the store then you already have injector issues and have probably experienced flooding whether you drive a short distance or not.
I don't mind taking the car for a drive if I need to move it out of the garage, any excuse for pleasure driving is fine with me. From what you are saying, it sounds like those short trips shouldn't create flooding issues as long as the engine is running properly. That doesn't mean that those short hops may not create problems with carbon build-up I suppose, but once a week I have to drive 30 miles to my other office on some nice, low-traffic, rural roads.
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