3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002) 1993-2002 Discussion including performance modifications and Technical Support Sections.
Sponsored by:

Stupid question #43 - Engine operating temp -

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Dec 30, 2007 | 10:29 PM
  #1  
dhays's Avatar
Thread Starter
Rotary Enthusiast
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,151
Likes: 0
From: University Place, WA
Stupid question #43 - Engine operating temp -

I've read a lot about the FD can get too hot. I've also read a lot about how if they aren't allowed to warm up after a start that there can be starting problems due to flooding or carbon lock. What I haven't been able to find yet is what temperature is considered "warmed up". If I'm going to move the car or drive it a very short distance, what should the engine coolant temp be before shutting it down to avoid starting problems?
Reply
Old Dec 30, 2007 | 10:53 PM
  #2  
RotorDream's Avatar
Rotary Ninja
 
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 683
Likes: 0
From: Wichita Falls, TX
do you have an aftermarked colant temp gauge or the stock one, and if the stock one has it been converted to linear. since your asking this, i would assume its stock and hasnt been converted to linear.

with that out of the way, generally from my experience, driving it before its warmed up doesn't lead to starting problems or flooding, but shutting the engine off before it has reached NOT, such as short drives to the store or whatever, will lead to flooding.

thats my .02
Reply
Old Dec 31, 2007 | 12:43 AM
  #3  
dhays's Avatar
Thread Starter
Rotary Enthusiast
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,151
Likes: 0
From: University Place, WA
Originally Posted by RotorDream
do you have an aftermarked colant temp gauge or the stock one, and if the stock one has it been converted to linear. since your asking this, i would assume its stock and hasnt been converted to linear.
I've got a Defi-D coolant gauge.

Originally Posted by RotorDream
with that out of the way, generally from my experience, driving it before its warmed up doesn't lead to starting problems or flooding, but shutting the engine off before it has reached NOT, such as short drives to the store or whatever, will lead to flooding.

thats my .02
That is my question. I didn't express it very well. I'm trying to avoid shutting the engine down before it has reached NOT. The question: What is NOT? ie, how warm should a cold engine be so that it is "safe" to shut it down? ie should I wait until the coolant temp is 140F, 160F, 180F ?
Reply
Old Dec 31, 2007 | 12:51 AM
  #4  
RotorDream's Avatar
Rotary Ninja
 
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 683
Likes: 0
From: Wichita Falls, TX
Originally Posted by dhays
I've got a Defi-D coolant gauge.



That is my question. I didn't express it very well. I'm trying to avoid shutting the engine down before it has reached NOT. The question: What is NOT? ie, how warm should a cold engine be so that it is "safe" to shut it down? ie should I wait until the coolant temp is 140F, 160F, 180F ?
this is what i found on FD3S.net


"for optimal performance the ECU wants to see a water temp reading of no less than 180. Below that point, the computer is still is warm up/protective mode. Solenoids, secondary butterflies and injectors all work as if the car was still cold. This is especially a problem on the highway since temps will drop below the 180 mark and get pretty close to 170. The difference in the minimum running temperature on the highway at around 70 mph is only about 10 degrees, and as it turns out, that's 10 degrees too cold. "

Hope it helps, from what i can see NOT is 180F
Reply
Old Dec 31, 2007 | 12:58 AM
  #5  
silentblu's Avatar
Rotary Enthusiast
Tenured Member 15 Years
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 764
Likes: 1
From: california
Originally Posted by RotorDream
this is what i found on FD3S.net


"for optimal performance the ECU wants to see a water temp reading of no less than 180. Below that point, the computer is still is warm up/protective mode. Solenoids, secondary butterflies and injectors all work as if the car was still cold. This is especially a problem on the highway since temps will drop below the 180 mark and get pretty close to 170. The difference in the minimum running temperature on the highway at around 70 mph is only about 10 degrees, and as it turns out, that's 10 degrees too cold. "

Hope it helps, from what i can see NOT is 180F
Find the thread, labeled ultimate cooling thread, something along those lines, and it'll tell you normal operating temperatures.

180f is when the thermostat is fully open
Reply
Old Dec 31, 2007 | 01:07 AM
  #6  
RotorDream's Avatar
Rotary Ninja
 
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 683
Likes: 0
From: Wichita Falls, TX
here's a thread all about warming up the FD before you drive it
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ng+temperature
Reply
Old Dec 31, 2007 | 01:10 AM
  #7  
wReX's Avatar
Does not drive a WRX!!!
Tenured Member 20 Years
iTrader: (6)
 
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 1,253
Likes: 1
From: San Antonio
Just give it a little rev to 3-4k RPM's and turn the key off, will help get rid of any excess fuel left in the chambers. I did flood my old FC once back when I didn't know any better so I know what it takes... have never once flooded the FD.
Reply
Old Dec 31, 2007 | 01:18 AM
  #8  
RotorDream's Avatar
Rotary Ninja
 
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 683
Likes: 0
From: Wichita Falls, TX
Originally Posted by wReX
Just give it a little rev to 3-4k RPM's and turn the key off, will help get rid of any excess fuel left in the chambers. I did flood my old FC once back when I didn't know any better so I know what it takes... have never once flooded the FD.
Same here never flooded my FD (knock on wood) but thats about the only problem I havn't had haha

but i did find that most people have a 87F water temp

Last edited by RotorDream; Dec 31, 2007 at 01:25 AM.
Reply
Old Dec 31, 2007 | 02:42 AM
  #9  
dhays's Avatar
Thread Starter
Rotary Enthusiast
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,151
Likes: 0
From: University Place, WA
Thanks for the info. I found and read that thread, which was helpful. The primary concern there was making sure the engine was warm enough before driving it hard, not necessarily shutting down a cold engine, but it was helpful.
Reply
Old Dec 31, 2007 | 11:18 AM
  #10  
bryant's Avatar
bryant
Tenured Member 20 Years
 
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,509
Likes: 0
From: montgomery
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/big-fat-fd3s-cooling-thread-571088/
Reply
Old Dec 31, 2007 | 04:24 PM
  #11  
RotorDream's Avatar
Rotary Ninja
 
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 683
Likes: 0
From: Wichita Falls, TX
Damn there was **** in there i didnt even know
Reply
Old Dec 31, 2007 | 05:23 PM
  #12  
adam c's Avatar
Cheap Bastard
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 8,368
Likes: 50
From: San Luis Obispo, Ca
At 180 degrees, the stock ecu does not think that the engine is fully warmed up. It doesn't think that it is warm until something over 190.

Regarding shutting the car down, you should be able to turn your car off at any time, and not worry about ANY problems.
Reply
Old Jan 1, 2008 | 08:56 AM
  #13  
bryant's Avatar
bryant
Tenured Member 20 Years
 
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,509
Likes: 0
From: montgomery
Originally Posted by RotorDream
Damn there was **** in there i didnt even know
Reply
Old Jan 1, 2008 | 10:12 AM
  #14  
CantGoStraight's Avatar
What's your point ?
Tenured Member 10 Years
 
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 3,573
Likes: 0
From: Gainesville, Fla.
Originally Posted by dhays
I've got a Defi-D coolant gauge.



That is my question. I didn't express it very well. I'm trying to avoid shutting the engine down before it has reached NOT. The question: What is NOT? ie, how warm should a cold engine be so that it is "safe" to shut it down? ie should I wait until the coolant temp is 140F, 160F, 180F ?
Most problems come when people start there car up to move it from the garage to the drive way to was it of say you got home, left it in the drive way and go out to move it back into the garage for the night (or next use) and it won't start the next time. It's never been an issue for me to take it around the block before putting it away, short drives to the store are not an issue it's the start move short distance (as stated) and shutting off. If your car floods after a short trip to the store then you already have injector issues and have probably experienced flooding whether you drive a short distance or not.
Reply
Old Jan 1, 2008 | 11:05 AM
  #15  
dhays's Avatar
Thread Starter
Rotary Enthusiast
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,151
Likes: 0
From: University Place, WA
Originally Posted by CantGoStraight
Most problems come when people start there car up to move it from the garage to the drive way to was it of say you got home, left it in the drive way and go out to move it back into the garage for the night (or next use) and it won't start the next time. It's never been an issue for me to take it around the block before putting it away, short drives to the store are not an issue it's the start move short distance (as stated) and shutting off. If your car floods after a short trip to the store then you already have injector issues and have probably experienced flooding whether you drive a short distance or not.
Thanks. This is exactly what I was wondering. I have not (yet) flooded the car. I want to avoid it. I live in a rather compact neighborhood. I live 1.6 miles from the grocery store, 2.5 miles from the office, and 2.5 miles from church. My son's girlfriend lives .8 miles from our house (as a runner, I know just about any distance to the 1/10 of a mile). I don't want to have to deal with flooding on short trips like that.

I don't mind taking the car for a drive if I need to move it out of the garage, any excuse for pleasure driving is fine with me. From what you are saying, it sounds like those short trips shouldn't create flooding issues as long as the engine is running properly. That doesn't mean that those short hops may not create problems with carbon build-up I suppose, but once a week I have to drive 30 miles to my other office on some nice, low-traffic, rural roads.
Reply
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
immanuel__7
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
89
Sep 5, 2015 10:23 AM
CaptainKRM
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
14
Aug 26, 2015 09:52 PM
befarrer
Microtech
3
Aug 22, 2015 05:52 PM
gtcd
1st Generation Specific (1979-1985)
30
Aug 19, 2015 02:44 AM




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:22 AM.