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Stuck seal?

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Old Apr 17, 2009 | 01:07 AM
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Stuck seal?

My engine is on a stand right now. The other day I just turned it over VIA the crank bolt with a ratchet and it made a nice solid 6 pshhht sounds.

Then I started degreasing/cleaning the block (GUNK engine degreaser in the can) and I believe I got a bit in one of the ports which made it's way into the rotor housing. It was wet for a bit inside so I turned it over and got as much out as I could, the rest has now dried... but I do see a fair bit of loose carbon now, and when I crank the engine it makes 5 nice psshht sounds and one kind of OK/lame one. All the seals look visually to be in great shape so I'm thinking it's got some carbon jammed somewhere that became loose after the degreaser hit it?.


Woudl you suggest to just leave it until it's back in the car and try to "run" the carbon out of the engine or should I do the ATF thing. It's not going to be back in the car for another month or so so would it be a better idea to do the ATF thing closer to the time it's going to run?
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Old Apr 17, 2009 | 01:23 AM
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Originally Posted by aaron_bc
My engine is on a stand right now. The other day I just turned it over VIA the crank bolt with a ratchet and it made a nice solid 6 pshhht sounds.

Then I started degreasing/cleaning the block (GUNK engine degreaser in the can) and I believe I got a bit in one of the ports which made it's way into the rotor housing. It was wet for a bit inside so I turned it over and got as much out as I could, the rest has now dried... but I do see a fair bit of loose carbon now, and when I crank the engine it makes 5 nice psshht sounds and one kind of OK/lame one. All the seals look visually to be in great shape so I'm thinking it's got some carbon jammed somewhere that became loose after the degreaser hit it?.


Woudl you suggest to just leave it until it's back in the car and try to "run" the carbon out of the engine or should I do the ATF thing. It's not going to be back in the car for another month or so so would it be a better idea to do the ATF thing closer to the time it's going to run?
you never explained why your engine is out in the first place. did you just rebuild it? I guess what I would do is connect the tranny and try for a compression test..
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Old Apr 17, 2009 | 01:39 AM
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im going single and it was easier to pull the engine.

it was in nice shape before it was pulled, ran well, no hot start problems etc.

I need to change the rear main seal, re-seal the pan so it was easiest to just pull the engine.



and i wanted to clean everything
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Old Apr 19, 2009 | 05:15 PM
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anymore comments?


the engine hasn't been ran since it had good compression. seals just do go while sitting aorund. so I assume when the degreaser got in, it loosend up some carbon which now has make a seal stick?

a compresison test won't do me any good as it will read poor either way.



Again... my question.. can I do the ATF trick with the engine out of the car and it won't be running for a few weeks? Or should I wait until it's in the engine bay.

I would rather do it now, so I can hear the solid 6 puffs to know it has compression.
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Old Apr 19, 2009 | 08:17 PM
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All the seals look good, however do they move in and out like they should?

If you're going to have the motor out of the car for a few weeks, i'd put a little bit of ATF/MMO/mineral-based motor oil into it to keep everything lubed up and protected. Also, by doing this, it *should* loosen things up and return compression to the motor (since you said that it was good when you removed it.)
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Old Apr 20, 2009 | 01:21 PM
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what kind of oil do you reccomend? I was reading up on the ATF, and I don't want to risk any damage to the oil control rings.

the wierd thing is the engine was absolutly fine when I parked it and took it aparts (but keep in mind it has been sitting in my engine bay with the exhaust and intake off for nearly 4 months, but I had the holes plugged.

Do things dry out, could this be my problem?

Just let me know what oil to use, and I will squirt a bit on each rotor face.
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