The car continues to come along. . .I thank the Mazda corporation every time I work on the car for the ample room under the hood for normal sized hands. . .it sure is a blessing. Thanks everybody on the forum for all the help, I'll give major props when the car is all finished.

As you can see the strut brace that came with my car does not fit over the new greddy elbow I purchased. I think I have three options. .

1. Shorter engine mounts that would take a little while to install.

2. Have this bar modified. . .probably losing much of its rigidity.

3. Purchase a new strut bar with a little more of an angle to it.

I think my easiest option is 3, but I don't want to buy one without some feedback from people that are using the same elbow.

Any input is welcome!

Only one pic would upload for some reason. . .oh well.

 

what brand strut bar is that?

 

I dunno. . . it was on the car when I bought it. All the work on the car was done by Pettit, and it is a quality piece (not an ebay piece of junk), but there's no print on it.

I'm thinking if I loosen my throttle body and get it to angle down as much as possible, then do the same thing with the elbow, then pull the strut bar mounts as far forward as possible. . .it might add up to just a few mm's needed to clear. I'll try that tomorrow.

Feedback is still welcome, though.

 

1. Is this even a real option? I hope not.
2. I don't see how you could modify it other than putting some "spacers" between the bar and the shock tower. Unless you are referring to cutting/grinding a portion out.
3. I can't recall people having problems with the Greddy elbow rubbing on shock tower braces, leading me to think that just about anyone would work.

 

Kinda looks like my older JIC "D" profile one. I would try some washers on the plate of the strut bar.

**that was suggested to me when I had mine and similar clearance issues.

I ended up purchasing a stock one that clears the elbow.

 

So what is so bad about shorter engine mounts besides not having as much vibration dampening?? It would lower the center of gravity for of the car.

 

Because you think lowering the center of gravity a mere 1/2 inch is going to help most people w/ their track times?

I would rather recommend the driver go on a diet.

It is easier to swap out the strut tower bar.

 

Do you want to start considering all of the sub-systems that could effect, let alone the time and labor to do it, just because a strut bar is rubbing?

 

Garfinkle has machined 3/16" out of his motor mounts to offset the engine oil brace. Been that way for years on a 400hp motor. No ill effects.

 

Are you calling me fat?

 

I was just wondering. I don't see an issue lowering the engine by shorter mounts unless it causes something to hit somewhere. I mean there isn't a whole lot going on under the motor to get smashed, and most everything up top has enough slack to allow for it. Changing the mounts isn't the worst thing I've ever done either. I actually just did mine yesterday and made my new ones about 1/8" shorter than the stockers.

And lowering the CG 1/2" would be noticable IMO. Most no, but if you AutoX or track you will be able to tell a difference.

 

How did you make them? Any pics?

 

Here are some other pics of my little project.

 

^
Spider man has infected your engine bay and I must say he has done a nice job.

 

I used some delrin from McMasterCarr 80A I think, 6" long by I think 3" diameter, I don't remember I ordered it a while back. Took the old mounts off, took them apart, removed all the rubber. Drilled a hole in the center where the center of the rubber would have been. Measured the Delrin to be 1/8" shorter than the stock mount, cut it. Drilled a hole in the center of the delrin, took a 3" by 3/8" or longer bolt and put the delrin between the mount and the subframe where the rubber mounted and you are done. You can actually make a puck that goes under the subframe to help vibration, but you will need at least a 3.5" bolt, and I didn't have one.

There is a better write up on this site, which is where I got the idea from, I'll try to find it when I get home or in the morning. I figured $60ish for two motor mounts compared to what $200??? for aftermarket ones is a pretty good deal.

 

That is pretty awesome. I'm going to be under there once I finish the engine bay and run it for a bit. I bought Garfinkle's oil pan brace, and will have the mounts off anyway. I'll definitely consider making my own mounts.

 

Here is the thread

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...5&pagenumber=3

BTW mine had the aluminum drivers side mount which is made different than the steel mounts. The aluminum is basically one piece. I had to remove all the rubber, then drill a hole through the al. I may have access to a steel mount so I may change it out, but if it doesn't bend or break I see no reason to.

 

Just read that entire thread. . . WOW! What an easy mod, and the results seem to have been great. Like I said, once I finish my engine bay, run the car for a bit. . . next time I change my oil I'm going to take the pan off to install one of Garfinkle's oil pan braces. Then I'll make some new mounts. . . cut them to fit including the oil pan brace and hopefully,

"bye bye" oil leak. . .
"bye bye" clearance issue with my strut bar. . .
"Hello" happy driving!

Awesome link. . .thanks a lot.