I have a 93 FD and I just got my motor rebuilt, dropped it all in, connected it up and am ready for the start up.
But I am wondering if it is okay to run this new rebuild on a stock tune.
I got it Street Ported by Banzai during the rebuild and have a few mods as well: intakes, downpipe, and a catback, as well as ported turbos. But I still have the stock cat in place.
I still have the stock injectors, although they were cleaned out, and have a stock ECU.
Should the engine work fine without running lean?
\Thanks for the help.

 

I would get a tune just to be safe, I mean you already spend the cash to have it build by Banzai.

 

Keep the boost at stock levels and you will be fine. This was covered many years ago. That thread may be in the archives section. Apparently you can mod the engine quite a bit as long as you keep the boost at 10psi.

 

Are you on stock IC? I'd get a boost gauge if you haven't already and monitor boost. I believe you might have too many free flowing mods to not have boost creep. Might not be able to keep it at 10 psi.

 

Do Not!

Playing with fire here. Get a PFC and get it tuned. If there are spikes you will be covered with fuel cut. Furthermore, porting adds a bit of midrange flow. I would not risk a new rebuild by not adding something as standard as a Power FC. Not to mention the other capabilities like fan control and monitoring.

 

I would absolutely get a PFC with a ported engine. If it was a rebuild on stock ports a base map would not be needed as long as boost is under control below 10psi. I believe a street port needs slightly advanced timing but don't quote me on that. Check the PFC forum and see if they have a basemap for your specified port.

 

Though it may start and run, don't boost it until you have some sort of ECU and get it properly tuned.

 

Get a pettite tuned ecu for your setup or Aem or power fc

 

the ported engine throws things off partly because it lowers your engine vacuum at low loads and increases volumetric efficiency at high loads.

 

You cant drive your car hard on a stock ecu. Don't even think about boosting it. Results will likely be bad.

You need a tuneable ecu (like a pfc), and you will likely need larger injectors because of the porting. Get the secondary injectors bored out to 1200 to 1300 first, and then get a tune.

 

Not to be a dick to other veteran members, but if you keep it around 8-9lbs of boost or less you will be fine assuming everything else is up to par. Been doing exactly what you are asking for atleast 7-8 years on numerous FDs(30+) on about every type of apex seal on the market and never had an issue. Hell, Im running a 58mm turbo on a Pettit remapped stock ECU and stock fuel right now at 10lbs and air fuel stays in check. Not sure what size port Banzai did for you but if it is a large port the car will run like **** on the stock ecu when you arent full throttle and it will encourage you to get an aftermarket ecu soon. If the port is large dont waste your time with a Pettit ECU as it really wont help driveability and only offer a little safety if you are seeing boost over 10lbs.

Pull your restrictor pills and make sure you have a boost gauge and you are staying BELOW 10psi and you will be fine.

 

Bingo. While it is good to err on the side of caution and you WILL need a PFC in the near future, there's no harm driving it. Get the boost down as far as you can and drive it easy. If you are still breaking in the motor, you shouldn't be in boost anyhow.

Dale

 

Remove the restrictor pills from the turbo system , which will make the cars wastegate open up at 7 psi . this should help with boost spikes and such IF you MUST drive the car on the stock ECU , But I dont think its the best idea to do it drive it constantly on the stock ECU its best to get a Power FC , and get a tune

EDIT* apparently i've been beaten to the punch

 

+1 Do not boost anywhere past 10 psi.

For years I ran CAI, PFS SMIC, DP, MP, CB, with a mild street port on a stock ECU and I WOT that thing every chance I got. But I *never* boosted past 10 psi, not 10.5 but 10 psi, no spikes, no creep, nothing.

IMO the only mod to a be little leary of is the mild port. But if you are nervous just get a wideband and then you'll know for sure

 

I put 18k miles on a FD in one year back in 2003 that had full exhaust, intake and stock ecu. Beat the living **** out out of the car everyday as I didnt know any better back then. We removed the restrictor pills so it would hit 8-9psi and all this was on a factory reman that already had 20k+ miles on it when I got the car. Never a single issue, and this was before Water/Meth injection was common.

Everyone says throw a PFC on the car to make it safer, the car will actually run leaner on the PFC than the stock ECU without a tune if kept at 10lbs or less.

 

remember the three mod rule now that was some paranoia righ there. lol


^^ yup. Many don't seem to take into account what a certain mod does. For instance an quality IC:

1- It's effects will be colder AIT's which mimics a colder day so no need for a tune.
2- Less pressure drop. Which means higher boost levels and therefore boost must lowered via a boost controller.

Two benefits come from the upgraded IC mod: Faster car due to colder AIT's and less wear on the turbos since they don't have to work as hard to reach the same PSI.

 

with the commander you can go to PIMVOLT and add fuel as easy as 12 click so on a STOCK tune maybe but with the powerfc that ability to play with it is what makes it so awesome I think

 

Yes, and I should clarify I Recommend a PFC over a stock ecu but most believe it makes the car run safer. It really doesn't unless tuned or you make adjustments. It is like having 10 gauges in one and improves drivability drastically.

 

My fear would be the added flow enabling spikes. If the WG capability is surpassed, it can run lean easily. A cool night can even cause this. If the OP is simply breaking his engine in, and putting around under light load, then yes. I feel it would be okay. However, I would not risk my engine with mid to full throttle pulls.

As mentioned, a Pettit ECU is a good temporary option, and I would feel much better about the situation.

 

Thanks for all the information guys. Appreciate it all.
Yeah, I won't be boosting the engine at all for now since I have to break it in for 2,500 miles so I guess I won't have a problem. But Ok, I will consider getting a PFC soon after.
Damn, im broke though.. I hate the fact that I still need to upgrade the ECU with so little mods. I wasn't planning to upgrade ECU until I was ready to buy some BNR twins..
So keep it at 10 or below. Got it. Although I remember reading on here before that it is safe to boost 12 psi, especially with a ported wastegate where you won't have the boost creep or spike.
Yeah.. So I will have to go out and get myself a boost controller then, and yes, will buy a wideband AF gauge once I have some money..
and yes, I am still running the stock IC. But will do a nice custom V-mount soon enough.

 

Oh, and about the restrictor pills. Why exactly should I remove the restrictor pills? I remember reading something about this a while back on Rob Robinette's website but I have never seen anybody talk about it on the forum as an important thing to do so I didn't even think people did this anymore.

 

There's a PFC for $550 . . .

:-) neil

Here's the link:
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...werfc-1018734/

 

It has never been 12 psi. 10 psi is stock boost which is what our ECU's are tuned to. Never ever boost past stock levels unless there is an ECU in place.

 

Just adding my .02

I've owned my FD for the better part of 10 years.

I ran the following for at least 8 of those years:

Stock ECU
Factory Re-Man
Streetport (mild)
Stock Turbos (stock wastegate)
Med SMIC (with proper ducting)
Custom K&N style intakes (w/ minor heat-shielding for radiator)
3in DP
High flow cat
Racing beat dual dip

That would be it as far as power goes...everything else was stock(injectors, coils, ect) minus engine accessories (GReddy bov, ic piping, ect). I do also remember replacing the fuel pump with a Supra pump.

I did remove pretty much every emission related item (AP, acv, aws, ect)

The most IMPORTANT thing out of all my test and tuning came down to the boost control(obviously). I messed around with manual controllers and had great results. NEVER had creep. Ran with the manual controllers for about 7 years until recently when I shelled out for an older Profec B. Same results, just a lot more convenient.

I did have a bad knock sensor and wiring once which came in the form of high rpm fuel cut, and I will say that I hit fuel cut A LOT of times while tracking that problem down, but never experienced any fuel cut/overboost issues because of excessive air flow with my setup.

Now this was just my experience and I most likely would have gotten a PFC/tune if I could afford it at the time. I was 16 and dumped the load getting the car which had the brand new engine.

I did daily drive the car to high school and then college(made 6+ hour drives like a champ at least 40 times) however not without encountering every problem know to the forum over the years I've owned it, haha. I went to school for auto so it made for GREAT experience and had access to anything I could ever possibly need to work on a car.

CLIFF NOTES:
Control boost to 10psi and no problems in my experience

I would just add that I was METICULOUS on maintenance and repairs! AVOIDED at LEAST 5 fires as well as plenty of overheating close calls.I had the fan mod and gauges to monitor oil temp, press, boost, water, ect)

 

10psi=Safe


12psi=BOOM/GAME OVER