stock turbos: bent studs on compressor side
stock turbos: bent studs on compressor side
Hey guys, got a pressing question for you. I just bought these beautiful turbos from another board member. They are in insane shape, with one problem: there are two bent studs on the compressor housings (one stud on each housing). 
Question: how the hell do you fix this? Bend the studs back? If that doesn't work, the can the studs be removed (how?) and the hole re-tapped? How much do you think a machine shop would charge for this work if it's possible? Please advise.
~Mike

Question: how the hell do you fix this? Bend the studs back? If that doesn't work, the can the studs be removed (how?) and the hole re-tapped? How much do you think a machine shop would charge for this work if it's possible? Please advise.
~Mike
Just run a couple nuts down on the stud and tighten them up against each other then use the bottom nut to remove the stud, (if the nuts turn when trying to remove the stud tighten the nuts up a little bit more) then you can do the reverse to reinstall the studs from your old turbo's, if you like put a drop of removable thread locker when installing the unbent ones.
You can use vice grips to get them out or just take them to any shop. It's not very hard at all doing it the vice girp way. Just use the old studs after that. When I had my turbos put in(two weeks ago) the turbos I bought also off a board member had a bent stud and they just taped it a bit with a hammer(not hard) and it actually loostened up to the point where you could twist it out by hand. Didn't harm anything either.
True that CantGoStraight. I'd say vice grips is the best way if you have extra studs to use cause the vice grips will smash the stud a tiny bit...but usualy there is a spot that doesn't have threads so ya.
Originally Posted by FallenCho
True that CantGoStraight. I'd say vice grips is the best way if you have extra studs to use cause the vice grips will smash the stud a tiny bit...but usualy there is a spot that doesn't have threads so ya.
That's another thing I really don't understand... why do some people stick to a technique like it was a Religion even though there are simpler and lower risk methods? Not willing to accept change or improvement?
I dunno.
Originally Posted by HDP
But why take the risk of damaging something when you can just use the double-nut technique? Don't have to use vice grips, hammers, hacksaws, blowtorch, TNT, etc...
That's another thing I really don't understand... why do some people stick to a technique like it was a Religion even though there are simpler and lower risk methods? Not willing to accept change or improvement?
I dunno.
That's another thing I really don't understand... why do some people stick to a technique like it was a Religion even though there are simpler and lower risk methods? Not willing to accept change or improvement?
I dunno.Trending Topics
Another vouch for double-nutting. (that sounds dirty) 
Screw one nut halfway down the stud, then screw another nut onto the stud. Use 2 10mm wrenches to tighten the nuts up against each other. Then, use a wrench on the bottom nut - the two nuts will push against each other, and the stud will unscrew.
Go ahead and get some new studs - no sense using damaged fasteners or trying to repair them. You can also use the double-nut method to tighten the new stud in place.
Dale

Screw one nut halfway down the stud, then screw another nut onto the stud. Use 2 10mm wrenches to tighten the nuts up against each other. Then, use a wrench on the bottom nut - the two nuts will push against each other, and the stud will unscrew.
Go ahead and get some new studs - no sense using damaged fasteners or trying to repair them. You can also use the double-nut method to tighten the new stud in place.
Dale
Originally Posted by DaleClark
Another vouch for double-nutting. (that sounds dirty) 
Screw one nut halfway down the stud, then screw another nut onto the stud. Use 2 10mm wrenches to tighten the nuts up against each other. Then, use a wrench on the bottom nut - the two nuts will push against each other, and the stud will unscrew.
Go ahead and get some new studs - no sense using damaged fasteners or trying to repair them. You can also use the double-nut method to tighten the new stud in place.
Dale

Screw one nut halfway down the stud, then screw another nut onto the stud. Use 2 10mm wrenches to tighten the nuts up against each other. Then, use a wrench on the bottom nut - the two nuts will push against each other, and the stud will unscrew.
Go ahead and get some new studs - no sense using damaged fasteners or trying to repair them. You can also use the double-nut method to tighten the new stud in place.
Dale
Originally Posted by CantGoStraight
Just run a couple nuts down on the stud and tighten them up against each other then use the bottom nut to remove the stud, (if the nuts turn when trying to remove the stud tighten the nuts up a little bit more) then you can do the reverse to reinstall the studs from your old turbo's, if you like put a drop of removable thread locker when installing the unbent ones.
thanks guys
You guys are so helpful
Thanks! NOw, how about this problem:
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/flickering-lights-%7C-voltage-drop-when-engine-hot-%7C-alternator-related-501248/

~Mike
Thanks! NOw, how about this problem:https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/flickering-lights-%7C-voltage-drop-when-engine-hot-%7C-alternator-related-501248/

~Mike
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