Stock power with BNR turbos
#1
Stock power with BNR turbos
Hi Guys,
As I near the end of my rebuild I have decided to drive the car with stock power and experience what that's like. I have BNR stage 3 twins, Dowmpipe+midpipe, and a adaptronic ECU. I know that the BNR turbos are more efficient than the stock twins so theoretically would I be able to run less than stock boost levels and achieve stock power?
Why am wanting to this?
A: I would like to upgrade my entire cooling system first before increasing power.
Moe Greene
As I near the end of my rebuild I have decided to drive the car with stock power and experience what that's like. I have BNR stage 3 twins, Dowmpipe+midpipe, and a adaptronic ECU. I know that the BNR turbos are more efficient than the stock twins so theoretically would I be able to run less than stock boost levels and achieve stock power?
Why am wanting to this?
A: I would like to upgrade my entire cooling system first before increasing power.
Moe Greene
#2
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
I don't think it's really possible with those mods to be truly at stock power. Also, the BNR's will probably not spool as fast as the stock twins at low boost.
Run the turbos on the waste gate spring only with no boost control, you should be at 7-8 psi or so to start with.
Dale
Run the turbos on the waste gate spring only with no boost control, you should be at 7-8 psi or so to start with.
Dale
#3
I don't think it's really possible with those mods to be truly at stock power. Also, the BNR's will probably not spool as fast as the stock twins at low boost.
Run the turbos on the waste gate spring only with no boost control, you should be at 7-8 psi or so to start with.
Dale
Run the turbos on the waste gate spring only with no boost control, you should be at 7-8 psi or so to start with.
Dale
I'm a noob when it comes to this stuff so please excuse my lack of knowledge and questions.
so from my understanding I should.
Set the wastegate on the turbos at the lowest setting, which on the BNR turbos is done by the nut on the wastegate arm?
I don't have a boost controller so are the pills in the vacuum lines going to be fine?
If what I just wrote doesn't make sense can you walk me through what I should do?
#4
Rotary Freak
iTrader: (12)
Dale, thanks for the reply!
I'm a noob when it comes to this stuff so please excuse my lack of knowledge and questions.
so from my understanding I should.
Set the wastegate on the turbos at the lowest setting, which on the BNR turbos is done by the nut on the wastegate arm?
I don't have a boost controller so are the pills in the vacuum lines going to be fine?
If what I just wrote doesn't make sense can you walk me through what I should do?
I'm a noob when it comes to this stuff so please excuse my lack of knowledge and questions.
so from my understanding I should.
Set the wastegate on the turbos at the lowest setting, which on the BNR turbos is done by the nut on the wastegate arm?
I don't have a boost controller so are the pills in the vacuum lines going to be fine?
If what I just wrote doesn't make sense can you walk me through what I should do?
Last edited by moehler; 06-11-17 at 08:00 AM.
#5
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
Shouldn't need to mess with the nut on the waste gate arm.
The waste gate actuators have lines going to them from from the nipple on the compressor housing, this is the line with the pills. Leave those lines be. There is another nipple on the actuator that (stock) goes to the metal lines going up to the wastegate/precontrol actuator. Cap those nipples - actually, I would take a short vacuum line and go from one nipple to the other, that will serve the purpose of capping. If you use a crappy vacuum cap and it breaks or comes off you'll be over boosting big time.
Dale
The waste gate actuators have lines going to them from from the nipple on the compressor housing, this is the line with the pills. Leave those lines be. There is another nipple on the actuator that (stock) goes to the metal lines going up to the wastegate/precontrol actuator. Cap those nipples - actually, I would take a short vacuum line and go from one nipple to the other, that will serve the purpose of capping. If you use a crappy vacuum cap and it breaks or comes off you'll be over boosting big time.
Dale
#7
Original Gangster/Rotary!
iTrader: (213)
Completely stock power at 10 psi with all the stock stuff yields 210-215 rwhp, almost 100 rwhp less than Omar made at less boost.
Which wastegate did you get from BNR? He offers a larger option. With dp/mp/cb you might be looking at some creep, and be stuck running 12-14 psi without much choice. I see a high flow cat in your future
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#8
....and this is why BNRs rock the house
Completely stock power at 10 psi with all the stock stuff yields 210-215 rwhp, almost 100 rwhp less than Omar made at less boost.
Which wastegate did you get from BNR? He offers a larger option. With dp/mp/cb you might be looking at some creep, and be stuck running 12-14 psi without much choice. I see a high flow cat in your future
Completely stock power at 10 psi with all the stock stuff yields 210-215 rwhp, almost 100 rwhp less than Omar made at less boost.
Which wastegate did you get from BNR? He offers a larger option. With dp/mp/cb you might be looking at some creep, and be stuck running 12-14 psi without much choice. I see a high flow cat in your future
Is it possible for me to inspect and see what wastegate I got?
#10
Don't worry be happy...
iTrader: (1)
Unless you are tracking the car or beating the **** out of it, a stock cooling system that is working properly will work just fine.
FYI- The main reason for replacing the stock radiator on street driven cars (no track duty) is because they tend to crack at the end tanks. Not because they don't cool properly. The reason I mention it is because a lot of people erroneously believe that FD's have an overheating problem.