Stock power with BNR turbos
Hi Guys,
As I near the end of my rebuild I have decided to drive the car with stock power and experience what that's like. I have BNR stage 3 twins, Dowmpipe+midpipe, and a adaptronic ECU. I know that the BNR turbos are more efficient than the stock twins so theoretically would I be able to run less than stock boost levels and achieve stock power? Why am wanting to this? A: I would like to upgrade my entire cooling system first before increasing power. Moe Greene |
I don't think it's really possible with those mods to be truly at stock power. Also, the BNR's will probably not spool as fast as the stock twins at low boost.
Run the turbos on the waste gate spring only with no boost control, you should be at 7-8 psi or so to start with. Dale |
Originally Posted by DaleClark
(Post 12190860)
I don't think it's really possible with those mods to be truly at stock power. Also, the BNR's will probably not spool as fast as the stock twins at low boost.
Run the turbos on the waste gate spring only with no boost control, you should be at 7-8 psi or so to start with. Dale I'm a noob when it comes to this stuff so please excuse my lack of knowledge and questions. so from my understanding I should. Set the wastegate on the turbos at the lowest setting, which on the BNR turbos is done by the nut on the wastegate arm? I don't have a boost controller so are the pills in the vacuum lines going to be fine? If what I just wrote doesn't make sense can you walk me through what I should do? |
Originally Posted by Moe Greene
(Post 12190869)
Dale, thanks for the reply!
I'm a noob when it comes to this stuff so please excuse my lack of knowledge and questions. so from my understanding I should. Set the wastegate on the turbos at the lowest setting, which on the BNR turbos is done by the nut on the wastegate arm? I don't have a boost controller so are the pills in the vacuum lines going to be fine? If what I just wrote doesn't make sense can you walk me through what I should do? |
Shouldn't need to mess with the nut on the waste gate arm.
The waste gate actuators have lines going to them from from the nipple on the compressor housing, this is the line with the pills. Leave those lines be. There is another nipple on the actuator that (stock) goes to the metal lines going up to the wastegate/precontrol actuator. Cap those nipples - actually, I would take a short vacuum line and go from one nipple to the other, that will serve the purpose of capping. If you use a crappy vacuum cap and it breaks or comes off you'll be over boosting big time. Dale |
I ran pretty much the same setup as you in the past. Do what everyone's suggesting i ran stock waste gate spring pressure saw 7psi which made 300 rwhp.
|
Originally Posted by Khan Racing
(Post 12190997)
I ran pretty much the same setup as you in the past. Do what everyone's suggesting i ran stock waste gate spring pressure saw 7psi which made 300 rwhp.
Completely stock power at 10 psi with all the stock stuff yields 210-215 rwhp, almost 100 rwhp less than Omar made at less boost. Which wastegate did you get from BNR? He offers a larger option. With dp/mp/cb you might be looking at some creep, and be stuck running 12-14 psi without much choice. I see a high flow cat in your future :icon_tup: |
Originally Posted by GoodfellaFD3S
(Post 12191221)
....and this is why BNRs rock the house :D
Completely stock power at 10 psi with all the stock stuff yields 210-215 rwhp, almost 100 rwhp less than Omar made at less boost. Which wastegate did you get from BNR? He offers a larger option. With dp/mp/cb you might be looking at some creep, and be stuck running 12-14 psi without much choice. I see a high flow cat in your future :icon_tup: Is it possible for me to inspect and see what wastegate I got? |
Originally Posted by Moe Greene
(Post 12191331)
I got the sequential setup... did not know a larger wastegate was even an option...
Is it possible for me to inspect and see what wastegate I got? |
Originally Posted by Moe Greene
(Post 12190858)
Hi Guys,
Why am wanting to this? A: I would like to upgrade my entire cooling system first before increasing power. Moe Greene Unless you are tracking the car or beating the shit out of it, a stock cooling system that is working properly will work just fine. FYI- The main reason for replacing the stock radiator on street driven cars (no track duty) is because they tend to crack at the end tanks. Not because they don't cool properly. The reason I mention it is because a lot of people erroneously believe that FD's have an overheating problem. |
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