Hi all, its friday morning and im at work...
Pulled the gearbox last nite to change the clutch, the flywheel needs machining.
In order for me to get my car sorted this weekend, i need to get the flywheel machined today before all the shops are closed for the weekend.

My uncle is a toolmaker and has the ability to resurface my flywheel.
Is there anything special/different about resurfacing the stock Fd flywheel?
May be a silly question but the reason i ask is, he said he heard the rotary flywheel is tapered which may pose a problem to machine?

Id just like to confirm / deny is there is anything different about machining the stock FD flywheel to any other flywheel. I dont have the flywheel with me at the moment.
Thanks alot.

 

I am not sure but why not just get a used one? Hell I will sell you mine for $25 plus shipping.

 

i live in new zealand, and can potentially get my flywheel skimmed for free.
hes done many normal flywheels so just after some info on the FD flywheel

 

No different than any other flywheel.

 

^^Ditto that.

 

Yes i got mine resurfaced last month..
Nothing different

 

awesome thanks alot guys! should have it back on the road this weekend then.
much appreciated

 

When you guys had your flywheels machined, did you machine it only from the area where clutch touches (A) or both the friction area and the area where pressure plate touches (A+B)?

I took a picture from the internet to show you what I mean:

 

I dont see any reason to machine past the clutch contact patch, but I'm still a noob. I'd go with just machining what you have marked "A".

 

You must machine both. If you only remove material from the contact area, the step will be out of spec. This will cause the pressure plate to have reduces clamping force and you will have premature disc failure.

 

got mine machined just yesterday. They did both A & B on mine.

 

Exactly what he said.

If you're machining down the contact surface Xmm you need to machine down the bolt surface Xmm as well. If you don't you're changing the mounting points for the Pressure Plate (it will now 'float' Xmm above where it should), the bolts won't torque to spec (or if they do, those too will be 'off' Xmm) and yes, premature disc failure will be in your near future.

DO BOTH.

-M

 

Never really thought about that. So approx. how much more would i have to torque it down? I dont think id be much since they take hardly any material off.

 

Although I have never actually done this work, I think it makes sense to do both from an engineering/design standpoint for the reason the other folks above said.

***** I bet they will remove more material than you think - so you should do BOTH. *****

B

 

The reason why I asked was that I paid for A+B machining. The shop that did the work pointed out that if you only machine A the clutch might not work well because height between A & B isn't same anymore.

 

Wrong, machining only A, will make the step smaller. Whenever A is machined, B needs it also, to maintain the proper height. Think about... let's say your flywheel has a .018 step (from wear), you remove .005 from A, now the step is .013

Take is back, tell them you want a .020 step.

 

Put the car back together last nite.
I must say, im glad i got the organic disk and not the 5 puck!
Works great, but need to get used to it. Very bitey, stalled a couple of times lol