Cars been sitting for a while. Went to start and started fine with one problem.
Car was actually heating up to much. (this is a newly built engine from KDR w/only 2k on it)
Thought there might be air in the system as one member suggested in previous post
due to heating up and gauge cluster light coming on.
So I burped the system.
Also, prior to burping, every time I went to go start the coolant level was low but
not according to the fill tank (above the pass. side headlight).
Each time I would remove the rad. cap the housing appeared to be
empty (the level hear according to Dave @KDR should be constant even when
cold and up to or just below the hose outlet to the overflow tank).
So I would fill to that point. Mind you I found no leaks anywhere.
After Burping and coming back to it the next day the car wouldn't start at all.
The started engages but the engine does not turn over. On a few attempts
It sounds like it wants to fire/combust (so I give it some gas)
but nothing it just dies dies again.
I Have a few things in mind that it might be but need suggestions on
(coolant level depleting and reason for not starting)
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

 

Have you been reading
too much
poetry?

 

I would regardless of the situation try doing the de-flooding procedure. Doing so will make sure nothing's in the rotor housings. After that, I would pull all the plugs and inspect them. Wire wheel them down to remove any carbon and reinstall (if you have the time to get new ones do it).

 

Easy with the comments Cali.
I wanted to make it easy to read. Keeping the sentences to a distance keeps the eyes focused. I'm sorry If you have a problem with that.
Oh, I guess I'm saying that I'm not a poet and I don't appreciate the smart comments. I'm just a guy try to get to the bottom of a problem.
Thanks mono4lamar. Any links to the proper deflooding procedure. I've had the car for a long time (13+ yrs) and I haven't come across this problem yet. I have an Idea on this process but want to get the specifics.
Also, plugs are brand new (w/only 2K of use), should I still inspect to be safe?

 

You should be fine, I've seen some electrodes on plugs be badly eaten up. Pull them out and clean them up on a wire wheel or use a steel brush to clean all the carbon from them.

As for the deflooding procedure you'll have the pull the fuel pump relay and the egi relay. Then you sit in the car with the throttle held wide open and cycle the car over for 20-30 seconds. If you can keep the plugs out and the hood open as you'll see the vapor trail to confirm the fuel vapor is out. After everything is done reinstall the plugs and put all your relays back in. As long as you have fuel pressure there's "no" reason the car wont start up. If it doesn't at this point I'll let you know what to do from there... But hopefully not.

 

I would put a pressure tester to the coolant system. If you have a leak it will show up. If you have a bad coolant seal the pressure will push coolant into the motor and replicate the scenario. If the coolant light actually coming on or just visually the level looks low? You should never have to add coolant to the overflow tank by the headlight. Are you seeing any smoke when it starts or are you unable to start it at all?

 

I am unable to start at all. When the car was running the light would remain off till engine came to temp (thats from a cold start and remaining in park it took about 7-8 mins to come to temp) and then the light would appear. The temp was not stable at all it would keep on increasing until I shut down. From running the heater at full blast in park I would also get a mutters and hesitation from the engine as if it were going to shut down. (I know there should be a little bit but this was much more severe)
The engine is a brand new rebuild from KDR. Well partially rebuilt.
2 rotor housings are new as well as 1 rotor.
When it was running, no, there was no smoke until the temp got to the extreme but even if there was a hint (not saying there was) I would shut down to prevent damage any possible damage. Also I was not filling the overflow tank. I was filling the white plastic coolant tank (technically the sub radiator tank)above the passenger headlight wear the coolant dipstick is located. The only other place I would add is the thermostat housing as I was told by Dave @KDR that this should be kept constant and if not then to add the proper amount. Last I did notice when filling here that once it was at the proper level if I let it sit for a second or 2 I would see a bubble come and over time a few more single bubbles (1 big bubble not fizzing bubbles) after each bubble the level would drop.
At 1st possible chance I will pressure test like you say.
I will also check the plugs and sparks.
Thanks both of you. I will update at next available.

 

There's a couple things you can do at this point. There might be a problem that's not related to your coolant system and could be the culprit. The fuel system and ignition are always good for a show down. Here's some steps to ensure your coolant seals condition...

A: Fill the filler neck with coolant and leave the cap off. Then have a friend crank the engine. While your friend is cranking the engine look inside the filler neck for bubbles. If there are bubbles coming up you have a coolant seal problem.

B: Pull the water pump housing off the front iron and install a pressure block off plate with gauge. Pressurize to 10 psi and check for pressure drop.

 

I think you have 2 separate problems. I don't think it not starting is related to the coolant level going down. It's a PIA to get all the air out of the FD system, usually i end up getting air out of the system over a couple days after burping the system for awhile to begin with. You can gently squeeze the radiator hoses to help pull air out, keep refilling as the water level drops. There is also a special funnel that's supposed to make burping the system a piece of cake, you might look into that. I always fill at the thermostat housing, I never even pay attention to the overflow tank.

As far as your starting issues. check the easy stuff first like your fuses. Next ground out the fuel pump in the diagnostic center and make sure you can hear the fuel pump running. Check each spark plug wire for spark, if you have a spare spark plug just pull each wire and push the plug into the boot, ground out and crank. look for spark. If you have spark on all 4's pull the plugs, clean and do the deflood procedure. While doing the deflood procedure make sure each chamber is pushing out even pulses of air.

One thing I HIGHLY recommend is run a wire from your starter solenoid (it's mounted on the starter) run a wire from there into the engine bay connected to a +12v source such as the supply wire to the fuse block. Make sure you also put a switch in this line. This will allow you to crank the car with the key off as well as crank the car while observing things in the engine bay. *note the car will still only start with the key in the ON position.

When I was sorting out a constant flooding issue this was the NUMBER 1 best thing I did!