well, im trying to help a friend out.

Power FC was either-cooked, or the data got deleted. and that was our original thought as to why it wouldnt stay running. the PFC was sent out to banzai, and then apexi to be repaired. I double checked the injector settings to verify that the data was there and it was. the car will start, and sound as though its going to run normally. but as soon as it hits 1k or so RPM it shuts off.

holding your foot on the throttle does not help. im thinking it might need plugs? but why would it start (its been sitting for 3 months) worried their might be some sort of wiring issue though. any help is appreciated tried searching but didn't find anything, ill keep looking.

some background info, car is fully single, 850's and 1600's

 

is there a turbo timer or aftermarket car alarm installed? do you have a stock ECU to test the car with?

last question: when you say it shuts off. do you mean it sputters out or does it just SHUT OFF? I'm assuming all the dash components stay on when it dies.

 

Is it possible to try and start/run the car with a stock ECU, or are the injectors too big?

If you let it sit and idle, will it keep going as long as you'd like until you touch the gas?

Dale

 

are you sure the fuel pump is staying on?

 

Had one with the SAME problem. Thought it was the PFC. Turned out to be a shorted fuel pump resistor pack. Someone removed it and twisted/taped the wires together.

 

I also am having this exact same issue. I want to source it out first before my part out. My FD does have a turbo timer. But no aftermarket car alarm installed.

Compression test came out perfect btw. I'm guessing could be a turbo timer related issued?

 

yeah exactly same issue here brother. Still trying to figure out what the issue is. Just wont stay on for more than 2 seconds or so. Compression on motor is perfect. No oil leaks anywhere, etc.

I'm guessing could be some kind of problem with the injector or coils. Spark Plug appears to be fine. Maybe a bad alternator? Battery?

Did a quick search and appears a lot of guys here are having the exact same problem but so far I haven't seen anybody sourcing to what the main issue is.

 

so, if it were the fuel pump i could monitor its voltage with the pfc and watch for a drop? im not sure a stock ECU would work (850's & 1600's), I do have one and I also have my PFC. However I am worried that it may be wiring and cant really afford to cook my power fc. I will get together with him and check the wires.

the car will not idle, period. we tried applying a bit of throttle to maybe bring the rpms up a bit to get her going but still nothing. mostly everything on the car is new, or in very good condition. the kid spent a pretty penny and maintains it very well, which is why im shocked its doing this.

 

Well as for me I have done all that already. Ran it with just the stock ECU same result. Still stalled. And like the OP, yes Gas pedal is pushed all the way in and car still stalled after 2 second or so while staying on. If the car was to be started with the PFC, then that ISC solenoid starts buzzing after the engine stalled. But if it was started with the stock ECU, then that ISC doesn't buzz, but the engine still stalled. Vice Versa

What I've done and did thus far and still same result:

-I've tapped a wire in the Diagnosis black box (GND to F/P) to listen whether Fuel Pump still working... And I can hear the fuel pump operating in the rear
-Pulled off the ISC solenoid. Clean it with carb cleaner and also cleaned the electrical terminal
-While the car stayed on for that 1 second or so, I had a friend pulled off the negative terminal to see if it was the alternator. And it was not. Car still run for about another second or so before it stalled
-Checked the Map Sensor: Sprayed and cleaned the electric terminal and inspect the vacuum hose. No leaks and is secure tight on it.
-Pulled the UIM. Insured all vacuum hoses are connected. Checked all injector connector, appears there are no cracks or anything out of the ordinary
-Did compression test on a piston tester with the shrader valve out. Both rotors on all three chambers are consistent at 115 psi. We even double checked it by using all of the Trailing and Leading plug holes.

**VERY CONFUSED**

Any help would be appreciated. I see a few forum member having this same issue, but no one really know exactly what the issue is.

 

you can't monitor fuel pump voltage on the PFC. all it's going to tell you is whether the PFC has output the ground to the fuel pump relay.

Do this: go under the hood into the diagnostic box. run a jumper wire from the GND terminal and the F/P terminal. That should run the fuel pump as long as the key is in the on position.

 

this is a long shot, but try temporarily richening up the mixture with the PFC.



try increasing INJ to 1.05 or 1.10 . Do this before you start the car.

 

Pull up the rear carpet and have somebody listen for the fuel pump to make sure it actually does stay on.

This sounds exactly like a fuel pump resistor issue. I had a car with this problem and it turned out to be a mouse had eaten the wires to the fuel pump resistor.

 

hmmm. yes. I do hear the fuel pump go off but then I think it did died right away. Talk about mouse the car has been sitting in the garage for the pass 2 months or so.

I will check the fuel pump. Thanks!

 

after posting my last response I went through and

unplugged the power fc and blew on all the plugs (nintendo style)
tightened down and made sure the fuel pump connections were solid
cleaned the battery posts and reclamped the terminals
unplugged and applied electric grease to all the plugs
made sure the hks twin-power connections were all good
cleaned and re-connected the ground


car started right up, idled like a champ, and i drove it 18 feet, to my neighbors driveway, turned it around and parked it so i could wash it for my friend... before and after pics if I feel the need. looks like hell but atleast its running.

my car however just started a strange woosh that blows with the bov when i shift. vacuum leak but i worked on my friends car today instead of mine. and now its dark.

 

It's possible that the ignition switch is bad, cutting power to the ECU when the switch contact moves back to 'run' from 'start'. This may cut power to the engine control / spark / fuel injectors or some other system - you'd have to look at what fuses have power or find a wiring diagram for which fuses are on which ignigion circuit.

 

i have seen this happen on two cars where when a car sit for a long period of time a mouse will live between the brake booster and firewall where the resister pack is located and chew the wires, and the car will run for a couple of seconds and turn off.

 

the weird part is that we thought the pfc was fried. but before it was sent out i went through and all the values were the same as when they came back. I made sure it would save tune as well (before and after) and it did. wondering if apexi just wanted the money... because it certainly didnt fix any problems.