rx927

iTrader: (3)

Maybe this will help.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uPCi4RpGQCU

If you separated the trans from the engine slightly it might be too late to disconnect the trans from the engine in the tight space under the car.

HardHitter

iTrader: (4)

I've watched that video many many times as it's been refered to in many of the threads I searched for.

What do you mean "If you separated the trans from the engine slightly"? I haven't touched the motor as I don't even have an engine hoist yet. All I've done is removed the motor mount bolts and the inspection hole cover to look into the bell housing.

Howard Coleman

iTrader: (6)

Brian,

the transmission needs to be separated from the engine about an inch. it also must be supported so as to remove pressure from the input shaft so the ring will easily move forward.

it is all in getting the trans in the correct postion (rearward and supported). once this happens the ring moves smoothly forward to the clutch spring fingers and the throwout bearing is easy to unsnap.

any binding of any kind calls for repositioning NOT a bigger hammer or leverage.
i am looking forward to seeing the inside of your motor

howard

XLR8

iTrader: (52)

Great work man. These build threads get me giddy

elpapi246

hey good luck to you bro. Im getting pretty eager to start on my little project also.

HardHitter

iTrader: (4)

Thanks for all the help/support guys. I'm going to go ahead and pickup an engine hoist to rent today and then attack the tranny/engine again. Gotta remove the bell housing bolts and then try to position the tranny/engine in the perfect position to get it released. After that is released, the engine SHOULD be able to come on out

HardHitter

iTrader: (4)

Well I worked about 4 hours on the car today taking my time and the engine is STILL in the car

I removed some things that I thought may get in the way (downpipe, turbo and turbo manifold) when I went to pull it. I then started on the bell housing bolts and everything was going great until I got to the last two bolts at the top of the bell housing. For the life of me, I couldn't get the tool to get to those two bolts. When I was able to get to them, I had no room at all to move in order to undo them. I even took off the UIM to see if I could get some more room and nope! I'm guessing I'm going to need to buy a new tool because I am absolutely stumped. Everything is so easy as long as you have the RIGHT TOOLS.

Anyway, here are some pictures I took during the day and the last two pictures are pictures of the two bolts I'm stuck on. P.S. Now I know why most people pull the engine WITH the tranny.

I pray that I'll be able to put all of this stuff back together haha









Bolt on the passenger side


Bolt on driver side

arghx

iTrader: (3)

I think you really wasted a lot of time doing it this way. You could've had this motor out by now if you had left the turbo and manifold on (downpipe off) and instead focused on getting everything out of the way so you can remove the transmission with the engine. Pulling the engine out without the transmission is not for beginners. Installing or removing a transmission from the engine like this can be very frustrating unless you've done it several times.

rdahm

iTrader: (6)

wow stuck bolts. that sucks. I just put those in probably valentines day or around there. They are normal bolts so make sure you have a 14mm socket and maybe a breaker bar. They were easy for me to remove because i removed my transmission only 2 yrs ago. I hate when a car project is held up because something isnt coming apart the way its supposed to. I was fortunate because ive separated them before.

oo7arkman

iTrader: (2)

Yeah when I pulled my tranny a few years back for a clutch those were fun to get too.

Like I said I too am in the middle of this but I am in no hurry. I went ahead and stripped the motor in the bay and I will pull it sometime soon. This is my first engine pull too so hopefully it goes smother that others are saying b/c I too am leavingthe tranny in the car.

Prometheus

iTrader: (2)

Snap-on makes a shallow swivle head socket set that is awesome.

Find a snap-on dealer mention the shallow swivle head sockets & tell him your exact situation.

I think it was around 90-130 for the set, but well worth the investment.

I have not seen another company offer this type of socket.

HardHitter

iTrader: (4)

I will take a look at it next week, I just thought about this but once I disconnect the tranny from the motor, the engine is going to drop forward correct? I'll need the lift and have it there to support the engine when I go to disconnect it or else it'll just fall forward without the weight of the tranny correct?

Speeder165

iTrader: (7)

Yes the engine will go forward. The engine hoist keeps the engine from dropping as you describe.
Ever get those tranny bolts broke free? I used two wrenches end to end to break my bolts loose. Worked wonders.

HardHitter

iTrader: (4)

I am going to attack those two bell housing bolts next week when I have a hoist because that's all I have left to do. Unbolt those and then try to release the tranny from the engine and I can start pulling!

Howard Coleman

iTrader: (6)

the good news is...

you can still easily pull the eng/trans together.

drain trans.
disconnect elec sensors at the trans
remove midpipe
remove rear alum brace that runs thru powerplant frame (PPF)
remove (two 14 MM box wrenches and a screwdriver to lock DS position) rear DS flange,
push forward t clear rear flange and snake DS past PPF
remove front alum tunnel brace
remove shifter
remove starter and slave cylinder for the clutch
remove motor mt nuts
remove front nuts for PPF frame
lower PPF out of way
pull motor trans

(feel free to add if i have missed anything)

while it sounds like alot of work in the long run it is easier in and out

BTW, you absolutely should own a Mazda factory service manual. it is the single most important item to own if you have a modded FD.

it never ends.

good luck,

howard

HardHitter

iTrader: (4)

Thanks howard, do you suggest for the point I'm at now to go ahead and get the tranny and engine out at the same time, or get those two last bolts and pull just the engine. I'm thinking ahead of which would be easier in the long run for putting it back in when it's time to put the engine back in. I would think it'll be easier to mate the engine and tranny while it's outside of the car and then putting it in all together, I just don't know how much more extra steps it will be to remove the engine/tranny together.

Thanks again for everyones help. This forum is full of valuable members and knowledge through searches.

Speeder165

iTrader: (7)

I was gonna pull both at the same time too but decided I wouldn`t. I thought it would also help on reassembly of the tranny to the engine & then re-installation of everything back into the engine bay. One can do it one of 2 ways. Both options you have on the table. Some will say it is easier to do one vs. the other. You just have to decide which one you want to do. I will say this though, you can destroy a pilot bearing if you mate the tranny to the engine at the wrong angle. Replaced the clutch disc assembly once & this happened. When I yanked the motor recently for the engine replacement, I tempted fate again. That time, I did it right. Tranny in car, engine out. A tip. Helps to have the front nose of the car lower than the rear. Will make it easier to put everything back in if you go the engine only route. Another good tip I got was to use a load leveler. Some find it helpful to use one of those as well.

I have been under a car before trying to get the tranny & engine at the right vertical angle to insert into the engine bay. Both were assembled. I had them hanging over me while I was under the car trying to drop them into the bay. I guess I had 350 plus pounds of metal pointing into the center of my chest. Was a creepy feeling. If they had dropped, Hmmmm. I guess I would be having a problem writing this right now maybe?

TRISPEEDFD3S

iTrader: (26)

Let me borrow your VMIC LOL!

pomanferrari

iTrader: (1)

It's best to pull the tranny if you're doing this at home by yourself. Lining up the tranny input shaft to the flywheel is no joke when you're on your back under the car and no tranny jack.

I have pulled a tranny for a clutch replacement but it is not a job for a first timer especially if you don't have a tranny jack.

There are more things to take off when you pull both tranny and engine together but less frustration trying to line up the tranny shaft with the flywheel blind hole.

Here are some pictures for your consideration:

Prometheus

iTrader: (2)

****! Prices spiked...

235.00 for the set, or 40.00 a piece.

Still worth it in my opinion...



http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog

Howard Coleman

iTrader: (6)

take a deep breath, relax a bit... and then do yourself a big fav and pull them out together. no special tools needed... though you do have to either have someone tilt the motor or borrow an auto tilt. see above pic

are we having fun yet?

hc

HardHitter

iTrader: (4)

It is the weekend and you know what that means! Time to work on the car Sadly I have to work this weekend until 1pm or so (hopefully nothing later) so I am going to get started on the car when I get back from work.

I'm going to start on removing the things for now taking the engine out with the tranny attached still. One of my questions is, when do I go and get the hoist? It is about $27 a day and I'm trying to get the car to the point where I know it'll come out once I get the hoist.

Also, if anyone could put up pictures of where and the things I need to remove, visual aid will help a lot when I'm under the car.

Based on Howard's post of what to do, I'm pretty sure I know where to drain the transmission fluid, the electric sensors at the trans are just the 3 clips correct? I have already removed the midpipe. Remove rear alum brace that runs thru PPF? After doing some searches I know that this is the PPF




But will I be able to know what you're talking about with the rear alum brace? I'm guessing it's more in the rear of the car? (duh?)



Is that something?

Remove the rear DS flange? I'm guessing I can use this thread as guidance?

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...e+shaft+flange

push forward t clear rear flange and snake DS past PPF...what???

Already removed front alum tunnel brace (I believe?)

Shifter will be inside of car, that should be easy enough, couple of bolts and from what I've read, make sure to have a towel in the car as it's full of oil and when you detach it, oil my go all over the place.

Starter is already removed from the clutch, slave cylinder I heard is a little tricky? Something about making sure spines line up or I can't remember. In this picture, I only remove the one on the left correct? That's the slave and then the other is master?



Already removed motor mount bolts

Removing front nuts from PPF frame, I can reference the pictures above to know where the PPF is

and after that, all is good to go and pull?

Any and all help would be very grateful! Thanks!

LikeThunda

iTrader: (1)

Wear some Gloves.... Good Luck..i plan on doing this with Mine soooon...my engine is SUper dirty../dusty engine bay...

HardHitter

iTrader: (4)

So I'm caught up on getting the draftshaft disconnect from the transmission. Any help on that? Does it just slide out?

zoolook

iTrader: (4)

It's a pull type clutch. This means that the throwout bearing is actually locked/retained to the pressure plate. So option 2 is actually the correct method. You need to get a good light and via the inspection hole you will see a retainer ring, you need to pry this aft. Once it disengages you should see the throwout bearing and fork release a bit.

Then you can pull the transmission back off the engine. Rather counter intuitive as most clutches are push type.