Starting off the new year with an engine pull!
09-23-10, 12:23 AM
#128
Find a plug for that hole in the UIM and relocate your AIT sensor to the throttle body elbow or IC outlet pipe. If you're using a Greddy elbow it's thick enough to tap.
Not sure what sensor that is but it may not be compatable with the Power FC - do you know if the seller was using another ECU. Best bet would be to contact "dudemanownsanrx7" (not sure if that's his name - search fast acting air intake temp sensor) and get the sensor he sells with the adapter plug.
Jack
Not sure what sensor that is but it may not be compatable with the Power FC - do you know if the seller was using another ECU. Best bet would be to contact "dudemanownsanrx7" (not sure if that's his name - search fast acting air intake temp sensor) and get the sensor he sells with the adapter plug.
Jack
09-23-10, 04:49 AM
#130
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you are actually heading in the correct direction by relocating your IAT as it heatsoaks under the manifold.
find a bolt that will plug the hole in your UIM.
simply drill a hole in your aluminum tube that connects your IC and elbow the size of the threads on your stock IAT sensor. find a nut that is compatible. if you can, grind it donw to half height and securely bolt your sensor to the pipe. 6 oclock position or thereabouts.
lengthen the 2 wires and you are set.
hc
find a bolt that will plug the hole in your UIM.
simply drill a hole in your aluminum tube that connects your IC and elbow the size of the threads on your stock IAT sensor. find a nut that is compatible. if you can, grind it donw to half height and securely bolt your sensor to the pipe. 6 oclock position or thereabouts.
lengthen the 2 wires and you are set.
hc
09-23-10, 08:51 PM
#131
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honestly if that's iat sensor reacts faster than stock, you should eliminate the heat soak problem and I wouldn't relocate it. Plug the ecu back in to the harness and key on the car and use a small butane torch like what you would use to shrink heat shrink and check to see it's reaction speed with the PFC commander.
09-30-10, 11:31 PM
#132
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September 30, 2010 will be the day that I finally started the FD again with no problems! If you haven't seen my other threads, I had a few problems prepping the car for starting it. First I wasn't getting oil pressure to show on my gauge when trying to prep the system, then once I got that squared away, I couldn't set my fuel pressure higher than 30psi. Then when I started the car yesterday, there was a loud knocking noise from the car (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kk0AK5uyfR0)
Found the problem tonight! It was the tab that held the OMP lines that went up to the engine. I took the belt off and turned the engine and just watched the green tab on the crank pulley. Saw that it came awfully close to that OMP tab and then noticed it had some scratches on it. That was the only thing I could see coming close to it. Bent it up, started the car and the knocking was all gone!
Here is the start up! You don't need to watch the whole thing, it's just me and my Dad sitting there letting it run.
P.S. Go ahead and shoot all the insults you want about what I'm wearing lol.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xB-obBxl464
So now the questions and concerns
1. The car doesn't hold idle, I had to keep my foot on the pedal the whole time in order to keep it alive. Is this just based on tune or are there adjustments I need to make in order for it to hold idle or a combination of both?
2. Previously, my gauge showed that I didn't have oil pressure when I first tried to build oil pressure before starting the car up. After pulling the oil feed line to the turbo and then turning the car over without the spark plugs and fuses pulled, we got oil coming into the cup, so we knew we had oil pressure but the gauge didn't show any. I noticed when I was inside the car just now, that the oil pressure gauge was moving. It was in between 0 and 60 just sitting there at idle. Is this normally where it should be at idle or do I have weak oil pressure problem?
3. The car literally sounds like it has a cam in it haha. It sounds pretty rough from inside the car and as if things were "shaking/knocking" and just didn't sound smooth at all I'm guessing and hoping this is just a tuning issue or is there other things I need to check for.
4. Fuel pressure. As you can hear in the video if you watched it all, we adjusted fuel pressure to 43. Should it be adjusted to 30 because I've heard it should be 30 at idle. At this time, I rather be too rich than too lean. On the good side, no fuel leaks!
At the time that is all I have! The video is boring, but it definitely made me happy to have the car at least started!
Found the problem tonight! It was the tab that held the OMP lines that went up to the engine. I took the belt off and turned the engine and just watched the green tab on the crank pulley. Saw that it came awfully close to that OMP tab and then noticed it had some scratches on it. That was the only thing I could see coming close to it. Bent it up, started the car and the knocking was all gone!
Here is the start up! You don't need to watch the whole thing, it's just me and my Dad sitting there letting it run.
P.S. Go ahead and shoot all the insults you want about what I'm wearing lol.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xB-obBxl464
So now the questions and concerns
1. The car doesn't hold idle, I had to keep my foot on the pedal the whole time in order to keep it alive. Is this just based on tune or are there adjustments I need to make in order for it to hold idle or a combination of both?
2. Previously, my gauge showed that I didn't have oil pressure when I first tried to build oil pressure before starting the car up. After pulling the oil feed line to the turbo and then turning the car over without the spark plugs and fuses pulled, we got oil coming into the cup, so we knew we had oil pressure but the gauge didn't show any. I noticed when I was inside the car just now, that the oil pressure gauge was moving. It was in between 0 and 60 just sitting there at idle. Is this normally where it should be at idle or do I have weak oil pressure problem?
3. The car literally sounds like it has a cam in it haha. It sounds pretty rough from inside the car and as if things were "shaking/knocking" and just didn't sound smooth at all I'm guessing and hoping this is just a tuning issue or is there other things I need to check for.
4. Fuel pressure. As you can hear in the video if you watched it all, we adjusted fuel pressure to 43. Should it be adjusted to 30 because I've heard it should be 30 at idle. At this time, I rather be too rich than too lean. On the good side, no fuel leaks!
At the time that is all I have! The video is boring, but it definitely made me happy to have the car at least started!
10-03-10, 02:30 PM
#134
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So I've been working with thewird on just getting the car to idle so I can set my fuel pressure.
Here are some videos I made to check my oil pressure gauge. Don't mind the coolant warning, I added more coolant and that is now off.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LIGC1WXeXTM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yPxsL58N2QA
My idle problem still exists. I went to adjust the AAS and when I try to turn it counter-clockwise, it is already all the way tight.
Really, once I get the car to idle without having my foot on the gas, I'll be able to adjust my fuel pressure.
Here are some videos I made to check my oil pressure gauge. Don't mind the coolant warning, I added more coolant and that is now off.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LIGC1WXeXTM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yPxsL58N2QA
My idle problem still exists. I went to adjust the AAS and when I try to turn it counter-clockwise, it is already all the way tight.
Really, once I get the car to idle without having my foot on the gas, I'll be able to adjust my fuel pressure.
10-03-10, 04:29 PM
#136
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Ok, so I adjusted my TAS and the car idles!
Idles from 990-1100rpms.
I took the vacuum hose off the FPR and adjusted it to be at 43.5psi. Once I connected the hose back on though, the FPR read just slightly below 40. I thought at idle it should be around 30psi?
I did find a coolant leak though so I'm going to have to fix that, but other than that, the car idles.
Idles from 990-1100rpms.
I took the vacuum hose off the FPR and adjusted it to be at 43.5psi. Once I connected the hose back on though, the FPR read just slightly below 40. I thought at idle it should be around 30psi?
I did find a coolant leak though so I'm going to have to fix that, but other than that, the car idles.
10-03-10, 08:29 PM
#138
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At the moment I know that I'd like to get everything squared away and confident that the car is running how it should be.
So first I need to fix the coolant leak which is coming from my thermostat housing. Going to take that off and add some gasket sealant and reattach it to hope that it fixes that.
Then I don't know if I go and get a quick safe tune just to put on the break in miles or I have a decent map right now to do break in miles.
I'm also debating of bringing the car to a close local rotary mechanic to get my car just checked over and at this time I'd also get my water injection kit installed as well as my gauges (oil temp, oil pressure, wideband, new boost/controller, and fuel pressure)
So first I need to fix the coolant leak which is coming from my thermostat housing. Going to take that off and add some gasket sealant and reattach it to hope that it fixes that.
Then I don't know if I go and get a quick safe tune just to put on the break in miles or I have a decent map right now to do break in miles.
I'm also debating of bringing the car to a close local rotary mechanic to get my car just checked over and at this time I'd also get my water injection kit installed as well as my gauges (oil temp, oil pressure, wideband, new boost/controller, and fuel pressure)
10-03-10, 09:14 PM
#139
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Here is a video I took during the day. In case you can't hear what I'm saying, basically me just rambling on.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cl3BtshLhi4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cl3BtshLhi4
10-09-10, 02:03 PM
#140
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So was able to work on the car again today and we are progressing!
I was able to fix my coolant leak on the coolant filler neck by creating a gasket. No more leak.
I ended up starting the car and it moved for the first time in over a year! Put the car in reverse and backed the car down into the street.
Put the car into first and....stall
Started the car again, held the gas down more annnnndddd stall...
Took the car 4-5 tries to get it going again. It would act as if it was about to start and then just die. On the 6th try it started (hopefully this isn't a "hot start" problem)
Finally drove the car lightly down the street. Shifted into 2nd and third, turned around and headed back. Drove almost a mile!
Definitely need to get used to the clutch.
After shutting down, there was smoke on the turbo oil feed and there is a small leak so I'm going to have to seal that up.
Other than that, I'm pretty happy the car drives although very rough as I'm still trying to get a base tune.
Once I get that settled and I don't stall the car, I'm setting up an appointment to get my water injection and my gauges installed.
Water temp on the PFC last I checked after coming back was 85 degrees so it seems as though the car is running at ideal temps right now.
I was able to fix my coolant leak on the coolant filler neck by creating a gasket. No more leak.
I ended up starting the car and it moved for the first time in over a year! Put the car in reverse and backed the car down into the street.
Put the car into first and....stall
Started the car again, held the gas down more annnnndddd stall...
Took the car 4-5 tries to get it going again. It would act as if it was about to start and then just die. On the 6th try it started (hopefully this isn't a "hot start" problem)
Finally drove the car lightly down the street. Shifted into 2nd and third, turned around and headed back. Drove almost a mile!
Definitely need to get used to the clutch.
After shutting down, there was smoke on the turbo oil feed and there is a small leak so I'm going to have to seal that up.
Other than that, I'm pretty happy the car drives although very rough as I'm still trying to get a base tune.
Once I get that settled and I don't stall the car, I'm setting up an appointment to get my water injection and my gauges installed.
Water temp on the PFC last I checked after coming back was 85 degrees so it seems as though the car is running at ideal temps right now.
10-09-10, 06:15 PM
#141
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Worked on fixing the "oil leak". Added teflon tape to it and all but the smoking still existed. Ended up concluding that it is coming from under the turbo blanket? Is this typically normal for having a new turbo blanket on? This is the first time using one and if I lift up the blanket a little, more smoke comes out.
Anyway, here she is leaving her "home" after over a year of sitting and being worked on!
Don't mind all the dust collected after just sitting around
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zX7QF7NdOWM
Anyway, here she is leaving her "home" after over a year of sitting and being worked on!
Don't mind all the dust collected after just sitting around
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zX7QF7NdOWM
10-11-10, 11:17 AM
#142
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Have an appointment setup to get my water injection kit and gauges installed tomorrow so I'll finally be able to read more into the car.
Any special instructions of what needs to be done/where to install the water injection kit? Should be pretty self explanatory to them but if there is a special location that I should tell them?
Any special instructions of what needs to be done/where to install the water injection kit? Should be pretty self explanatory to them but if there is a special location that I should tell them?
10-11-10, 10:50 PM
#143
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From what came with the kit, I'm guessing it's this one?
http://www.coolingmist.com/detailmai...0PSIStandardTM
Here are some pictures of the kit I took
From what I can tell it's only a single nozzle kit unless I'm looking at the wrong things.
If it's dual nozzle, I'm going to have it at a 3 and 6 o'clock position in the coupler connecting my IC piping and Elbow as per Howard Coleman's thread, but if it is only one nozzle, where should I mount it?
http://www.coolingmist.com/detailmai...0PSIStandardTM
Here are some pictures of the kit I took
From what I can tell it's only a single nozzle kit unless I'm looking at the wrong things.
If it's dual nozzle, I'm going to have it at a 3 and 6 o'clock position in the coupler connecting my IC piping and Elbow as per Howard Coleman's thread, but if it is only one nozzle, where should I mount it?
11-01-10, 11:13 PM
#144
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So it's been a while. Just wanted to give everyone a quick update.
I dropped the car off to get a look over and get my gauges/water injection kit installed.
The good news is, my gauges are all installed and working well.
My water injection kit is installed but I have yet to test to see if it works as I'm not going to be going in boost until tuned/engine break in is good. From what I see, all I need to do is change the min and max pressure? With this set, is this just telling at what boost PSI for the water to inject?
The bad is he didn't do too well in fixing the leaks I had. First was an oil leak that seemed to be coming from the oil pan (I have my oil temp sensor in the oil pan now and it seems as though it is the leak) He said he fixed it, but when I backed the car out after having it sit for a few hours, there was oil.
Another leak that he was supposed to fix was the "smoke" coming from the turbo. At first I thought this was the turbo blanket as you can see in the old video, but it really does seem to be coming from the oil line.
Here are some pictures and/video of the smoke if anyone can help
tapped into the Greddy Elbow
mounted in the trunk where you can remove the divider and fill the tank, make adjustments.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DF_jIyfD41g
I dropped the car off to get a look over and get my gauges/water injection kit installed.
The good news is, my gauges are all installed and working well.
My water injection kit is installed but I have yet to test to see if it works as I'm not going to be going in boost until tuned/engine break in is good. From what I see, all I need to do is change the min and max pressure? With this set, is this just telling at what boost PSI for the water to inject?
The bad is he didn't do too well in fixing the leaks I had. First was an oil leak that seemed to be coming from the oil pan (I have my oil temp sensor in the oil pan now and it seems as though it is the leak) He said he fixed it, but when I backed the car out after having it sit for a few hours, there was oil.
Another leak that he was supposed to fix was the "smoke" coming from the turbo. At first I thought this was the turbo blanket as you can see in the old video, but it really does seem to be coming from the oil line.
Here are some pictures and/video of the smoke if anyone can help
tapped into the Greddy Elbow
mounted in the trunk where you can remove the divider and fill the tank, make adjustments.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DF_jIyfD41g
11-25-10, 05:40 PM
#145
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Just wanted to do an update
Since last time I posted in this thread, I have fixed any fuel leaks that were happening at the time and I believe that the oil leak from the oil feed line is fixed. It is still smoking but I believe the turbo blanket soaked up oil while it was originally leaking so hopefully the smoke is just the oil burning off from the turbo blanket. I will see how it turns out.
Car seems to be running well. Put around 10 miles on the new build so far.
The car is still note tuned to go into boost or anything yet, but from what I've seen, AFR is sitting around 12.7-12.8 when sitting idle and sits pretty lean (14's or so) when just cruising at a constant speed.
Fuel pressure is sitting around 38-40psi when idle/driving around conservatively so that's good.
Water temp reading from the PFC sits at a comfortable 85 degrees.
Oil pressure is around 40-50psi when ideling and oil temp is around 140-150 degrees so I believe all of my readings are where they are supposed to be correct?
Haven't brought the car into boost yet obviously since I'm not tuned yet. Going to drive a few hundred miles to make sure the motor is running well and then get it on the dyno to get a tune.
Washed her today here is just a quick cell phone picture.
Since last time I posted in this thread, I have fixed any fuel leaks that were happening at the time and I believe that the oil leak from the oil feed line is fixed. It is still smoking but I believe the turbo blanket soaked up oil while it was originally leaking so hopefully the smoke is just the oil burning off from the turbo blanket. I will see how it turns out.
Car seems to be running well. Put around 10 miles on the new build so far.
The car is still note tuned to go into boost or anything yet, but from what I've seen, AFR is sitting around 12.7-12.8 when sitting idle and sits pretty lean (14's or so) when just cruising at a constant speed.
Fuel pressure is sitting around 38-40psi when idle/driving around conservatively so that's good.
Water temp reading from the PFC sits at a comfortable 85 degrees.
Oil pressure is around 40-50psi when ideling and oil temp is around 140-150 degrees so I believe all of my readings are where they are supposed to be correct?
Haven't brought the car into boost yet obviously since I'm not tuned yet. Going to drive a few hundred miles to make sure the motor is running well and then get it on the dyno to get a tune.
Washed her today here is just a quick cell phone picture.
01-09-11, 06:02 PM
#146
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Today was the day the infamous Steve Kan flew in to tune the car. It's been a long 1 year building this car but it all payed off today.
There were a few hiccups during the session such as the boost and water injection not working correctly, so I got a conservative tune on just the wastegate spring (13-15psi). I didn't want to try to push the motor without the proper safety precautions. Once I get the water injection and boost controller fixed, I will set another tune with Steve.
Just some quick pictures I snapped, along with the dyno video. Finished with a safe 345rwhp/270rwtq. I was expecting ~400 with water injection, but again since the system wasn't running, I am playing it safe.
Until then, this power is plenty enough for me to have fun with. Big thanks to Steve and Chris (twomucboost4u) for all of their time and effort to get this together and run smoothly.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KnPbA_P-FqU
There were a few hiccups during the session such as the boost and water injection not working correctly, so I got a conservative tune on just the wastegate spring (13-15psi). I didn't want to try to push the motor without the proper safety precautions. Once I get the water injection and boost controller fixed, I will set another tune with Steve.
Just some quick pictures I snapped, along with the dyno video. Finished with a safe 345rwhp/270rwtq. I was expecting ~400 with water injection, but again since the system wasn't running, I am playing it safe.
Until then, this power is plenty enough for me to have fun with. Big thanks to Steve and Chris (twomucboost4u) for all of their time and effort to get this together and run smoothly.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KnPbA_P-FqU
01-10-11, 06:40 AM
#148
very very nice build!!! congrats on everything working out, im totally jealous of the garage/space you have there .
what was the total HP in the end when tuned and all with the single turbo conversion? glad you kept the outside of the car looking mainly stock swell , very sleek and stock looking with nice touches around
what was the total HP in the end when tuned and all with the single turbo conversion? glad you kept the outside of the car looking mainly stock swell , very sleek and stock looking with nice touches around
01-10-11, 09:53 PM
#149
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Thanks guys!
Total HP was only 345/270 because of conservative tune due to my water injection and boost controller not properly working.
Again, still fun and I have something to look forward to for another tune!
Total HP was only 345/270 because of conservative tune due to my water injection and boost controller not properly working.
Again, still fun and I have something to look forward to for another tune!
01-30-11, 01:10 PM
#150
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Thought I'd give an update.
Boost controller is fixed and water injection is working.
Steve is coming back in March, so I will be getting tuned with my water injection this time.
Going to try and figure out the reason for the "lower numbers"
When I had the car looked over, there seems to be an exhaust leak coming from where my turbo manifold meets my motor. Could this play a large roll?
Boost controller is fixed and water injection is working.
Steve is coming back in March, so I will be getting tuned with my water injection this time.
Going to try and figure out the reason for the "lower numbers"
When I had the car looked over, there seems to be an exhaust leak coming from where my turbo manifold meets my motor. Could this play a large roll?