Starting off the new year with an engine pull!
02-27-10, 06:07 PM
#51
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I'm going to pull the tranny and engine together now since I'll have more space and a lot easier to work on when its out of the car.
My hold up like I posted earlier is trying to figure how the driveshaft is separated/disconnected from the tranny.
My hold up like I posted earlier is trying to figure how the driveshaft is separated/disconnected from the tranny.
02-27-10, 06:55 PM
#52
Since my garage is 18.5' x 10', I had to remove my engine and leave my tranny in the car. Oh fun!
If I had the room, I would've definitely removed the engine with my tranny.
It took me two days to get from this picture to this picture.
Here are the in between pictures:
1,
2, Why did they put the crane hooks on the corners of the engine. Why not inline with each other on the front and back. If I tried to lower the back, the engine would tilt to one side too.
3, Motor mount stud won't clear frame while tranny shaft slides into engine. Solution: First, jack tranny up to it's highest. Second, with motor mounts removed bolt engine to tranny. Finally, bolt motor mounts to engine and lower into subframe.
When taking the engine out without the tranny.
1. Unbolt motor mounts from engine.
2. Lift engine with tranny still attached a few inches. Go very slow. Stop when you feel resistance from tranny hitting car body or transmission tunnel.
3. Support tranny with jack.
4. Unbolt motor mounts from engine.
5. Unbolt pressure plate bolts from fly wheel through access panel. Press clutch pedal a few times to pull pressure plate back into bell housing.
6. Unbolt tranny from engine. Slowly slide engine off of tranny.
7. Lift up engine alittle and unbolt A/C from engine and lift out engine.
Don't forget to take over a hundred photos. When you're reassembling they're be invaluable.
I bought this this engine crane . As you can see in the customer image, it's very portable.
If I had the room, I would've definitely removed the engine with my tranny.
It took me two days to get from this picture to this picture.
Here are the in between pictures:
1,
2, Why did they put the crane hooks on the corners of the engine. Why not inline with each other on the front and back. If I tried to lower the back, the engine would tilt to one side too.
3, Motor mount stud won't clear frame while tranny shaft slides into engine. Solution: First, jack tranny up to it's highest. Second, with motor mounts removed bolt engine to tranny. Finally, bolt motor mounts to engine and lower into subframe.
When taking the engine out without the tranny.
1. Unbolt motor mounts from engine.
2. Lift engine with tranny still attached a few inches. Go very slow. Stop when you feel resistance from tranny hitting car body or transmission tunnel.
3. Support tranny with jack.
4. Unbolt motor mounts from engine.
5. Unbolt pressure plate bolts from fly wheel through access panel. Press clutch pedal a few times to pull pressure plate back into bell housing.
6. Unbolt tranny from engine. Slowly slide engine off of tranny.
7. Lift up engine alittle and unbolt A/C from engine and lift out engine.
Don't forget to take over a hundred photos. When you're reassembling they're be invaluable.
I bought this this engine crane . As you can see in the customer image, it's very portable.
02-27-10, 07:54 PM
#53
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Why not just take the Entire transmission out while you are at it? or did you find it easier to just pull the motor out.??
btw..how did you like that engine crane?
btw..how did you like that engine crane?
02-27-10, 08:00 PM
#54
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Come to a stopping point today.
Drained the trans fluid, removed shifter from inside, and removed the 4 bolts of the PPF in the front. If the driveshaft just slides into the transmission then aren't I able to start lifting the engine and sliding it out and the drive shaft will slide out of the transmission that way?
Drained the trans fluid, removed shifter from inside, and removed the 4 bolts of the PPF in the front. If the driveshaft just slides into the transmission then aren't I able to start lifting the engine and sliding it out and the drive shaft will slide out of the transmission that way?
02-27-10, 08:05 PM
#56
Racing Rotary Since 1983
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PM'd you...
remove small alu crossmember near ds rear... it will snake out thru PPF
index ds flange to diff flange so it goes back in the same postn
using two 14 mm box wrenches remove rear ds flange bolts
push ds flange away from diff flange using a long screwdriver
lower ds it should snake by midpipe
ds will now slide out of trans
which will start leaking lube as it tilts to remove engine. plug it
hc
remove small alu crossmember near ds rear... it will snake out thru PPF
index ds flange to diff flange so it goes back in the same postn
using two 14 mm box wrenches remove rear ds flange bolts
push ds flange away from diff flange using a long screwdriver
lower ds it should snake by midpipe
ds will now slide out of trans
which will start leaking lube as it tilts to remove engine. plug it
hc
02-27-10, 08:16 PM
#57
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Ok so I think this is where I am getting confused.
If the driveshaft is just able to slide out, then why are we removing draftshaft components in the rear of the car when you are starting the pull the motor out with the transmission, wouldn't it already just slide out without needed to disconnect the stuff in the rear?
It seems as though you're removing things in the rear in order to slide the driveshaft towards the rear of the car in order for it to slide out of the transmission. But wouldn't you be able to pull the engine/tranny forward/out of the car and it'll slide out that way?
If the driveshaft is just able to slide out, then why are we removing draftshaft components in the rear of the car when you are starting the pull the motor out with the transmission, wouldn't it already just slide out without needed to disconnect the stuff in the rear?
It seems as though you're removing things in the rear in order to slide the driveshaft towards the rear of the car in order for it to slide out of the transmission. But wouldn't you be able to pull the engine/tranny forward/out of the car and it'll slide out that way?
02-27-10, 08:32 PM
#58
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my view is the ds will bind as you try to pull the motor out. you will find when you remove the ds from the trans output shaft it will bind if not pulled straight back.
02-27-10, 08:48 PM
#59
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Ok thanks again Howard, I'm getting there. I don't think I'll be able to work on it tomorrow as I really want to watch the USA/Canada hockey game which is right in the middle of the day. If I have time, maybe I'll work on it tomorrow but I still need to go rent an engine hoist (or look on craigslist during the week but it is definitely coming out no later than next week, I promise! 
When I was looking at the flange today, it looked like there were more than 2 bolts for it unless I was totally looking at the wrong thing. Do you have a picture reference of what I'm supposed to be looking at? I have tried searching for "remove driveshaft" but no pictures/luck.
When I was looking at the flange today, it looked like there were more than 2 bolts for it unless I was totally looking at the wrong thing. Do you have a picture reference of what I'm supposed to be looking at? I have tried searching for "remove driveshaft" but no pictures/luck.
02-28-10, 07:22 PM
#62
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Well, after thinking pulling the tranny and engine together would be easier, we reconsidered and have decided to go after the bell housing bolts (the original thing that left us deciding to pull with the tranny)
This time it was a success. We were able to loosen all 5 bell housing bolts. Now from what I understand, all I need to do is get an engine lift, connect it to the engine, lift the engine a little (to clear the motor mounts on the bottom) and then attack releasing the tranny from the engine.
This is the advice from the great Howard Coleman
Engine and bellhousing must be at least 1 inch apart.
I gather that you are unable to push the ring forward. The ring is not moving because the trans must be somewhat supported from underneath in order for the ring to move forward.
I never try to separate the eng from the trans in the car. Of course it is possible.
Do not force the ring. If you read my thread on how to do it you will understand that initially I was all for finding bigger levers and hammers. If everything is in position it will work easily. If you force it you will be buying a new clutch.
So at this point you need to support the trans to free the ring. The ring will slide forward to the clutch spring/diaphragm. Once this happens the rearward part of the mechanism separates w the twist of a flat bladed screwdriver.
It is all in the positioning of the trans at this point.
This time it was a success. We were able to loosen all 5 bell housing bolts. Now from what I understand, all I need to do is get an engine lift, connect it to the engine, lift the engine a little (to clear the motor mounts on the bottom) and then attack releasing the tranny from the engine.
This is the advice from the great Howard Coleman
Engine and bellhousing must be at least 1 inch apart.
I gather that you are unable to push the ring forward. The ring is not moving because the trans must be somewhat supported from underneath in order for the ring to move forward.
I never try to separate the eng from the trans in the car. Of course it is possible.
Do not force the ring. If you read my thread on how to do it you will understand that initially I was all for finding bigger levers and hammers. If everything is in position it will work easily. If you force it you will be buying a new clutch.
So at this point you need to support the trans to free the ring. The ring will slide forward to the clutch spring/diaphragm. Once this happens the rearward part of the mechanism separates w the twist of a flat bladed screwdriver.
It is all in the positioning of the trans at this point.
02-28-10, 07:35 PM
#63
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nice thread, just be careful... take your time and search.
Looks like your doing OK so far and you all the experience in the world on this club, im sure you will be fine.
one more thing, if you plan on never going back to TT i recommend removing the rats nest and egr etc... looks way nicer
good luck
Looks like your doing OK so far and you all the experience in the world on this club, im sure you will be fine.
one more thing, if you plan on never going back to TT i recommend removing the rats nest and egr etc... looks way nicer
good luck
02-28-10, 07:48 PM
#64
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smog_guy once the engine is out of the car I will definitely be eliminating and cleaning up the engine bay. I want to have a very simple and clean engine so if there are any problems I will be able to troubleshoot a lot easier.
Rats nest will be gone, OMP will be eliminated, I was going to delete power steering but since the car is still going to be a weekend driver, I still want something comfortable. But A/C is deleted. EGR will be blocked off as seen on the new LIM below
Any other suggestions on what to eliminate?
Rats nest will be gone, OMP will be eliminated, I was going to delete power steering but since the car is still going to be a weekend driver, I still want something comfortable. But A/C is deleted. EGR will be blocked off as seen on the new LIM below
Any other suggestions on what to eliminate?
02-28-10, 08:35 PM
#65
sharp lim. i keep rooting for you in this evil tranny fight (lol if i had a nickel everytime i said that)
great to see forward motion. i got lazy with the hoist and if the engine isnt completely supported evenly when pulling it, its exponentially harder to pull.
great to see forward motion. i got lazy with the hoist and if the engine isnt completely supported evenly when pulling it, its exponentially harder to pull.
03-01-10, 02:23 PM
#66
Well, after thinking pulling the tranny and engine together would be easier, we reconsidered and have decided to go after the bell housing bolts (the original thing that left us deciding to pull with the tranny)
This time it was a success. We were able to loosen all 5 bell housing bolts. Now from what I understand, all I need to do is get an engine lift, connect it to the engine, lift the engine a little (to clear the motor mounts on the bottom) and then attack releasing the tranny from the engine.
[/B]
This time it was a success. We were able to loosen all 5 bell housing bolts. Now from what I understand, all I need to do is get an engine lift, connect it to the engine, lift the engine a little (to clear the motor mounts on the bottom) and then attack releasing the tranny from the engine.
[/B]
03-01-10, 02:32 PM
#67
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By clear the motor mounts on the bottom, I hope you mean remove them. If you don't the motor mount studs that stick downward will catch the subframe as you try to move the engine forward. In the Bruce Turrentine Engine R&R video, he takes the motor mounts off first. He lifts the engine until the tranny hits the transmission tunnel. Then, before removing the engine mounts from the engine, he supports the tranny with a jack. Do the same going back in with the engine. Put the motor mounts on last. Otherwise those studs that point downward will catch on the subframe. Be patient when feeding the main shaft into the back of the engine. Or else you'll have a rattling pilot bearing.
At the spot we are at now, I can't move forward until I get a lift. I have a jack under the car as well as stacked bricks under the car to support the transmission and hopefully help position the transmission into the correct spot when it's time to disconnect it from the engine.
03-01-10, 02:51 PM
#68
So you're supposed to totally remove the motor mounts? I've seen a few pulls where they just leave them on, lift the engine so the mount bolts are out of the hole and then they pull the engine forward. That is what I was planning on doing.
At the spot we are at now, I can't move forward until I get a lift. I have a jack under the car as well as stacked bricks under the car to support the transmission and hopefully help position the transmission into the correct spot when it's time to disconnect it from the engine.
At the spot we are at now, I can't move forward until I get a lift. I have a jack under the car as well as stacked bricks under the car to support the transmission and hopefully help position the transmission into the correct spot when it's time to disconnect it from the engine.
03-03-10, 03:47 PM
#75
Your so right. I was doing my first engine pull. My garage is only 18.5' by 10'. I couldn't find any local rentals that had small engine cranes. Just large ones. The OTC2002, which is pictured above, was the smallest engine crane I could find. Since I knew I would be storing it in my garage for a long time I paid extra for the portability. . No regrets....Thanks.
Pep Boys has the Torin Big Red for $250. But after seeing all the online reviews of how it sucks I wasn't gonna take a risk.
Pep Boys has the Torin Big Red for $250. But after seeing all the online reviews of how it sucks I wasn't gonna take a risk.