Starting new motor...??
#1
Big Snail
Thread Starter
Starting new motor...??
Gonna be starting new motor up for the first time, what should I do before hand? I know fill motor with oil and coolant. But what else? I remember hearing something about cranking the motor over for about 10 seconds twice before start up. Any help would be great. Thanks.
#4
Do it right, do it once
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Crank it with the plugs out (to make it easier on a weak battery) until the oil pressure guage starts moving.
Or crank it with the plugs in until the oil pressure guage starts moving.
You'll need to disable the fuel so it doesn't flood.
I keep the car up on jackstands for the initial fire up, that way I can see if there are any leaks and button up the belly pans after a few minutes.
Or crank it with the plugs in until the oil pressure guage starts moving.
You'll need to disable the fuel so it doesn't flood.
I keep the car up on jackstands for the initial fire up, that way I can see if there are any leaks and button up the belly pans after a few minutes.
#5
Speed Mach Go Go Go
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Turning the key to ON a few times should prime the fuel but not shure about the oil. I think the video says to remove a relay and crank a few times to prime. I would recomend 2-stroke oil in the tank just incase the OMP isn't working. Do you have a temp guage? Start it outside if you can cause oil will burn for about a 1/2 hour. Look for leaks (water, oil, fuel). Video says to run without shutting off but you may want to burp air out of coolant. Look for loose tools in bay and anything not clamped or disconnected.
#6
Big Snail
Thread Starter
Thanks for the help guys. So can I just pull the fuel pump fuse or do I need to pull the actual relay in the relay box next to the battery? Also how long should I run the car before shutting off? Should I run the car for say about 5 minutes then shut the car off and burp the coolant system then restart the car? Also does it really matter for the leading coil which plug wire its hooked up to as long as its a leading plug wire (i.e. front leading plug to leading coil BOTTOM plug, rear leading plug to TOP plug)? If anyone can make any sense of that. :-) I figure it wouldn't really matter since both leading plug wires go to the same coil. Thanks....
#7
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Warm it up to like 70c, shut off & burp, again to 75c, again to 80c. That should be good but you can do again at 85c. This is just my suggestion. I didn't burp mine cause I followed the video, so that's why I recomend it cause of my experience. If you have the bellypan off it's easier to see leaks. I ended up having to replace the thermostat, water level sensor, thermosensor and water pump afterwards (easier beforehand). Once your engine is warm 85c and you put the rad' cap back on, start her up and leave on for 15 min. I hope you have a water temp gauge (PFC maybe)? I was scared shitless when I first had her running.
I used 5w-20 and MMO for the first 500mi then 10w30 and also replaced the new copper plugs with new iridiums. The coils will tell you which oplug they go to. The center shared one is for the lower/leading and outside coils for the top/trailing. #1 rotor is towards the bumper. I can't remember the center but you can search and find pictures if someone doesn't chime in.
You are really looking for and listening for problems. Look for leaks, loose or missing nuts, bolts, wires, plugs, etc. Listen for weird idle, misses, stumbles, loose belts, warning beeps, etc. Keep checking while you burn off the assembly lube. There's some more threads on here you can read to.
Fuel pump relay should be in box towards passenger headlight but closest to drivers side. Do the pull plugs start a few cranks in case anthing fell in the engine can get kicked out.
I used 5w-20 and MMO for the first 500mi then 10w30 and also replaced the new copper plugs with new iridiums. The coils will tell you which oplug they go to. The center shared one is for the lower/leading and outside coils for the top/trailing. #1 rotor is towards the bumper. I can't remember the center but you can search and find pictures if someone doesn't chime in.
You are really looking for and listening for problems. Look for leaks, loose or missing nuts, bolts, wires, plugs, etc. Listen for weird idle, misses, stumbles, loose belts, warning beeps, etc. Keep checking while you burn off the assembly lube. There's some more threads on here you can read to.
Fuel pump relay should be in box towards passenger headlight but closest to drivers side. Do the pull plugs start a few cranks in case anthing fell in the engine can get kicked out.
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#8
Tony Stewart Killer.
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Tony while all of these are good suggestions there's not really anything that's really special about this.
I was in a pressure situation a few months back
took the engine out and mechanic rebuilt it, picked it up put it in the car and then towed car to mechanic to check things over before I was allowed to start it. Well he let me use a lift and work in there so I was loading maps doing all this crap and had it get it out of there asap that day.
basically what you want to have is 1. a fully charged strong battery 2. a correct fuel map 2. new spark plugs. Yes make sure the L1 part of the coil goes to the front lower spark plug and the L2 to the 2nd rotor lower plug. Yes they should be the same but why fool around when you know how it goes stock. Id put a few cap fulls of atf or engine oil in each runner of the lim before you put the uim on. It will lubricate the engine on initial startup and also help to build compression. I wouldnt crank without fuel pressure just floor the gas while cranking if needed that will cut off fuel. Thats it just let it idle for 15 min and get up to operating temperature then slowly take it out around the block and see whats going on. I did no boost and 3000rpms for 500 miles! Youll get a feel for whats going on and just check the fluid levels and keep an eye on the temps. Oil pressure should be high until broken in if it has new bearings etc. I changed the oil after 500 and again after an additional 1000 and now I'll do it at 1500 normally....
good luck
I was in a pressure situation a few months back
took the engine out and mechanic rebuilt it, picked it up put it in the car and then towed car to mechanic to check things over before I was allowed to start it. Well he let me use a lift and work in there so I was loading maps doing all this crap and had it get it out of there asap that day.
basically what you want to have is 1. a fully charged strong battery 2. a correct fuel map 2. new spark plugs. Yes make sure the L1 part of the coil goes to the front lower spark plug and the L2 to the 2nd rotor lower plug. Yes they should be the same but why fool around when you know how it goes stock. Id put a few cap fulls of atf or engine oil in each runner of the lim before you put the uim on. It will lubricate the engine on initial startup and also help to build compression. I wouldnt crank without fuel pressure just floor the gas while cranking if needed that will cut off fuel. Thats it just let it idle for 15 min and get up to operating temperature then slowly take it out around the block and see whats going on. I did no boost and 3000rpms for 500 miles! Youll get a feel for whats going on and just check the fluid levels and keep an eye on the temps. Oil pressure should be high until broken in if it has new bearings etc. I changed the oil after 500 and again after an additional 1000 and now I'll do it at 1500 normally....
good luck
#9
Big Snail
Thread Starter
Thanks again for all the help guys. About the leading coil. I'm using a 2nd gen coil which was recommended by Rotary Performance(RX7.com). And well its not marked with a decal like the 3rd gen leading coil is. Anybody happen to know which wire goes were? On the 2nd gen coil pack the plugs are horizontal (left to right) instead of vertical (top to bottom). I also thought the relay you should pull is the one in the relay box on the driver side next to the strut tower. So do I pull the relay or just leave it in and floor the gas pedal? Thanks again...Tony
Last edited by 93FD3S; 10-30-04 at 01:29 AM.
#12
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Pulling the fuel pump relay prevents flooding but pulling the plugs will spit out fuel as well. I got my startup advise from JSpecRacer7. If you can't contact your engine builder then try posting on the other forum, there's a few guys that build engines regulalry there. I think there's a couple here to but I don't see the reply's I got when I asked.
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Jeff20B
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09-16-18 07:16 PM