Starting issue and others...
05-29-12, 05:01 AM
#1
Starting issue and others...
this kind of happened over night. i drove it home from the hobby shop just fine. it idled perfect and everything. then the next morning its been like this...
the first one is of the starting and the attempt at idle. you cant hear it very well because of the other car running. the second one is just of the starting. the battery dies after the second attempt. could this be caused from a bad battery?
im going to try starting it with the power fc installed of the stock ecu and see if it changes anything...
a little background....
fresh rebuild
non-seq mod
other irrelevant "upgrades"
http://youtu.be/fiRUUBG6xK4
http://youtu.be/M7ZLs-s27Bs
the first one is of the starting and the attempt at idle. you cant hear it very well because of the other car running. the second one is just of the starting. the battery dies after the second attempt. could this be caused from a bad battery?
im going to try starting it with the power fc installed of the stock ecu and see if it changes anything...
a little background....
fresh rebuild
non-seq mod
other irrelevant "upgrades"
http://youtu.be/fiRUUBG6xK4
http://youtu.be/M7ZLs-s27Bs
06-04-12, 02:55 AM
#4
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I had similar issues to yours a couple days ago, mine turned out to be a bad battery and a stuck/leaking injector. So I would start checking those things, it could explain the starting issue. As for the last video you posted, I'm no expert but it looks and sounds like your engine is running on 1 rotor. Since it's a fresh rebuild it might just have to build a bit of compression. Again I am no expert, so maybe someone else could chime in.
06-04-12, 03:14 AM
#5
thank you for the input. its a fresh rebuild but it came out of another fd. it was running fine in it for almost year. it only has 36,000km on it. so the compression issue can be ruled out...
how did you find out it was an injector? did you just replace the injector and all was well?
how did you find out it was an injector? did you just replace the injector and all was well?
06-04-12, 04:08 AM
#6
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You can check the injector by pulling of the connector and putting a 12v source and ground on the tabs in the clip, you should hear it click. Repeat this a few times with all four injectors, in my cas it eventually turned out to be a leaking injector o-ring. Also check if all your plugs are firing, while you're doing that you might as well check if the engine isn't flooded and possibly perform a compression test, it could just as well be a stuck seal or something. It happend to me before after an engine sat for a while.
The thing is, your problems could be caused by all sorts of things, all you can do is start testing and ruling things out.
Oh and definitely check your battery!
The thing is, your problems could be caused by all sorts of things, all you can do is start testing and ruling things out.
Oh and definitely check your battery!
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06-04-12, 01:25 PM
#8
Sounds like its running on one rotor. An easy way to test without getting the injectors out is to pull the plugs one at a time with the car running and see how it affects the car. If you pull one and there is no change in idle, that one is stuck. If you pull one and the car dies immediately, then the other injector is probably stuck.
On a side note, starting fluid is your best friend in these cases to start the car easier.
thewird
On a side note, starting fluid is your best friend in these cases to start the car easier.
thewird
06-05-12, 08:12 AM
#9
update for today...
i swapped out the plugs and ignitor boxes for 100% working ones and got the same result so that is ruled out as a possibility. tomorrow i am going to swap the plugs for the bur9's that were in my old motor and only had 100km on them and i will do the deflood procedure.
the injectors were ruled out as a possibility simply because, the motor ran fine the week before we pulled it. what are the chances that in between pulling the motor out of one car and putting in the other than an injector could fail... i am going to check anyway just to say i did...
and what do you mean starting fluid?
i swapped out the plugs and ignitor boxes for 100% working ones and got the same result so that is ruled out as a possibility. tomorrow i am going to swap the plugs for the bur9's that were in my old motor and only had 100km on them and i will do the deflood procedure.
the injectors were ruled out as a possibility simply because, the motor ran fine the week before we pulled it. what are the chances that in between pulling the motor out of one car and putting in the other than an injector could fail... i am going to check anyway just to say i did...
and what do you mean starting fluid?
06-05-12, 03:13 PM
#10
Starting fluid is a very volatile fuel that you squirt at your throttle body while cranking. If theres any sign of ignition/compression it will help start it even with a weak battery or a low compression. I've found it extremely useful over the years. Much easier then pulling the plugs and deflooding.
thewird
thewird
06-06-12, 01:05 PM
#12
Sensors look fine, thats not your problem. If its running on one rotor its one of 2 things; blown engine or stuck injector. You can eliminate blown engine by doing a simple compression test. If it was idling fine before you shut it off, its probably a stuck injector.
thewird
thewird
06-07-12, 04:37 AM
#13
xlr8 posted this
2. I have had my injectors stuck open. In fact, my car did the exact same thing as yours. Every time I turned on the key, my re-wired fuel pump kicked on, flooding my engine with fuel. The easy fix for unsticking injectors is this. Take a 9v battery, attach leads to both positive & negative on the battery, pull off each injector plugs and apply the leads to each pin on the injector. Polarity doesn't matter so you can't get them backwards. You should hear the injector snap open and closed when voltage is applied and removed. This SHOULD free them up. Deflood the engine by removing the plugs, pull the EGI fuse, and crank it over. The gas will spit out so if you want to put a towel down there. Replace everything and it should fire up. If the injectors don't free, then they are physically stuck and will need to be removed for cleaning/replacement.
so im going to do it and see what happens... if nothing then the compression test is next...
2. I have had my injectors stuck open. In fact, my car did the exact same thing as yours. Every time I turned on the key, my re-wired fuel pump kicked on, flooding my engine with fuel. The easy fix for unsticking injectors is this. Take a 9v battery, attach leads to both positive & negative on the battery, pull off each injector plugs and apply the leads to each pin on the injector. Polarity doesn't matter so you can't get them backwards. You should hear the injector snap open and closed when voltage is applied and removed. This SHOULD free them up. Deflood the engine by removing the plugs, pull the EGI fuse, and crank it over. The gas will spit out so if you want to put a towel down there. Replace everything and it should fire up. If the injectors don't free, then they are physically stuck and will need to be removed for cleaning/replacement.
so im going to do it and see what happens... if nothing then the compression test is next...
06-08-12, 10:30 AM
#16
Honestly I should just not be a turd and send them out to be flow tested and cleaned... I just can't bring myself to give up my car for another week, but I guess if I blow an engine it'll be down for longer... oh the dilema of being a student and owning an rx7
06-10-12, 04:51 AM
#17
so i checked the injectors... theyre good. i did the stuck injector fix with the 9 volt battery on each one. ALL the plugs for the harness are good. tried starting it with the pfc and the stock ecu. same result... this time, the smell of fuel is very strong around the solenoids after shut down. i dont see anything leaking or anything like that. the only thing left is a compression test and to double check the fuel pump...
after that, idk wtf....
not exactly sure what else i can do...
after that, idk wtf....
not exactly sure what else i can do...
06-12-12, 03:46 AM
#19
i swapped out the fuel rails today with my old ones and did the pulsation damper delete according to banzai and i also pulled out my fuel pump to double check my install (its good)...the good news is that the fuel smell is gone after shut down. the bad news is that the results are still the same. only 2 things left to do that i can think of... spark plugs and compression test...
after that, i'll just get another motor i guess...
would anyone be able to say that maybe oil pressure would maybe be factor?
after that, i'll just get another motor i guess...
would anyone be able to say that maybe oil pressure would maybe be factor?
06-26-12, 04:12 AM
#20
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Oil pressure should not cause your car to run on one rotor. Just do the compression check and check if all your plugs are firing. Also did you install new plugs after the engine swap? Maybe one of the plugs has a factory defect causing your problems, ask how I know 
06-26-12, 08:58 AM
#22
Its been a month now and you still havent done a 10 minute compression test? Start there first.
If the results come back fine with that, remove the fuel rails from the motor(keep the fuel lines and everything hooked up), lift the rails u a couple inches and then prime the fuel pump(Jumper FP and GND in the small square black diagnostics box on the driver side fender wall) and see if you visually see fuel leaking from the rails.
If that checks out fine test your coil packs.
I assume you have done a full deflood procedure and installed new plugs or properly cleaned them between attempts to start the car?
If the results come back fine with that, remove the fuel rails from the motor(keep the fuel lines and everything hooked up), lift the rails u a couple inches and then prime the fuel pump(Jumper FP and GND in the small square black diagnostics box on the driver side fender wall) and see if you visually see fuel leaking from the rails.
If that checks out fine test your coil packs.
I assume you have done a full deflood procedure and installed new plugs or properly cleaned them between attempts to start the car?
06-26-12, 10:20 AM
#23
The irony in this statement... Shortly after I made this post, I'm talking 48hrs, I blew my engine on my way home from sf and have no idea why or how, my idle was skipping and jumping like it was misfiring and as I was cruising down the highway I lost all power from one rotor and the car only ran under load..... Just compression test before you get stuck 300 miles from home like I did
06-26-12, 12:51 PM
#24
Here's what happened to mine when an injector O-ring failed.
http://s133.photobucket.com/albums/q...t=DSCN3916.mp4
I went to a local hang out, parked the car for an hour and upon restart it was running on 1 rotor. After I got it home I removed both rail, hook them up directly to the feed and return line and prime the fuel pump, then fuel started spraying out of one of the secondary, but not really from the injector itself, it was spraying out around the rim of the rail opening. I installed a set of low mile secondary that I got on here and the car is running fine now, took the problem injector out of the rail and found a huge crack on the lower O-ring, looks like part of it was pinched between the injector and rail. The O-ring is green so they might not be OEM, looks like the previous owner had the injector service and didn't install it correctly
http://s133.photobucket.com/albums/q...t=DSCN3916.mp4
I went to a local hang out, parked the car for an hour and upon restart it was running on 1 rotor. After I got it home I removed both rail, hook them up directly to the feed and return line and prime the fuel pump, then fuel started spraying out of one of the secondary, but not really from the injector itself, it was spraying out around the rim of the rail opening. I installed a set of low mile secondary that I got on here and the car is running fine now, took the problem injector out of the rail and found a huge crack on the lower O-ring, looks like part of it was pinched between the injector and rail. The O-ring is green so they might not be OEM, looks like the previous owner had the injector service and didn't install it correctly
06-26-12, 09:55 PM
#25
Its been a month now and you still havent done a 10 minute compression test? Start there first.
If the results come back fine with that, remove the fuel rails from the motor(keep the fuel lines and everything hooked up), lift the rails u a couple inches and then prime the fuel pump(Jumper FP and GND in the small square black diagnostics box on the driver side fender wall) and see if you visually see fuel leaking from the rails.
If that checks out fine test your coil packs.
I assume you have done a full deflood procedure and installed new plugs or properly cleaned them between attempts to start the car?
If the results come back fine with that, remove the fuel rails from the motor(keep the fuel lines and everything hooked up), lift the rails u a couple inches and then prime the fuel pump(Jumper FP and GND in the small square black diagnostics box on the driver side fender wall) and see if you visually see fuel leaking from the rails.
If that checks out fine test your coil packs.
I assume you have done a full deflood procedure and installed new plugs or properly cleaned them between attempts to start the car?
mods please close..