i have spent the last year trouble shooting my car as to why it wont start and after every test in the book i have given up. i tested EVERY individual component on the car and everything checks out.

what i want to do is wire my starter and fuel pump directly to a switch to start them independently. basically getting rid of the ignition. i hate to use this example, but the way that race cars are started. how they flip a bunch a switches and then the car starts, THATS what i want to do.

i just want to do it properly. i have no idea where to start or if the starter and fuel pump are the only 2 things i need to be wiring up. if anyone has a write up or any kind of past/present experience with doing this mod then your input would be appreciated....

 

You have to turn on the ignition circuit. This will be your ecu and coils and all that jazz. You'll also want the accessory circuit powered. These are done through your key cylinder.

 

do you have a step-by-step or something like that or if you could elaborate on how to do it, that would be great.

do i need relays, fuses, special things like that. i'm looking to do this as properly as possible. so instructions in the form of a write up or something like that would be appreciated.....

 

If you don't mind multiple switches, it's a very simple job but I think this thread begs the question: Why not just fix it the right way?

 

Why would you want to put in more switches to create more problems? There's a reason why it won't start, fix it.

 

It's not that difficult just time consuming. I just finished the "temporary" dash on one of our race cars. You'll need two relays to do it the smart way; One relay for the starting circuit and one for the fuel pump. I do have an extra push button start with a built in relay at the shop if you would like to buy it. Each setup is completely different as far as wiring. The factory ecu and PFC need two 12v signals and one 12+ cranking signal to operate properly.

 

does anyone have any input as to how to install one of these

 

You power the EGI circuit for ignition, and you go straight to the starter for engine start. It's easy. Don't forget about your steering wheel lock without a key LOL.

thewird

 

What about the fuel pump and power on?

 

The EGI triggers all of that.

thewird

 

Oh, so 2 wires from egi to the switch and a 12v to power it? And just 2 wires from each post of the starter to the button and i get engine start?

 

Yah, the engine will run but I can't remember if the dash is powered up by the EGI, would have to look at the wiring diagram.

thewird

 

Cool. This set up doesnt require any fuses or relays in line with any of the wires? What gauge wire would you recommended for the egi and starter? How would i wire in the 12v for the egi? Would i splice in one of the wires or Would it go somewhere else?


Thanks for all your help i really want to do this correctly the first time.

 

Looking at the diagram, you also need to activate the circuit opening relay and the fuel pump relay which would have been activated anyway if you correctly tapped into the EGI relay. It would probably be easier to tap into the wire that links before these relays so that it triggers them all with one switch. Could probably just go under the dash and find the wire coming it out of the ignition switch and feed it a 12V source off your switch. Use the same gauge wire as the existing one.

Look on page Z-28 in the FSM wiring diagram.

thewird

 

Honestly, i have no idea how to read those things. I understand what its showing but i have no idea how to use it to troubleshoot or install things like this. If its not too much trouble could you mspaint me a picture or something?

 

thewird

 

So that red circled X-03 plastic connector is in your steering column, and one side of it connects to the ignition switch, other side of it has a black/white wire coming out of it (not blue/white? correct me if I got that wrong) Thats what the wiring diagram translates into real world in the car.

Just mount the switch panel as a first step. Take into account space behind the panel to run the wiring, and make sure wires can route to it okay.
Next, begin running the wires one system at a time. Try to match the gauge of wire in the circuit you're replacing/tapping into, to the same gauge as your new wiring. And always chase the wiring circuit back and see where its fused, and what the rating is. Protection is really important.

But really, there has to be a logical reason why it wont start. You say the tach doesnt bounce during cranking. That means no CAS signal. If the ECU doesnt know the position of the eccentric shaft, it cant time the injection system, so no squirt of fuel, no spark.

Have you replaced the CAS?
Would be a LOT easier than going through all this wiring, to add extra complexity to the car. Just unbolt the CAS, get others, bolt them on, connect wiring and see if that adds fuel and spark and a tach bounce.

 

Thanks for your reponse it cleared up a lot. But i think you may be confusing this thread with my other thread. Just a fyi, i have 2 FDs that im trying to trouble shoot at the same time.