SS fuel lines/AN fittings/FPR install info
#1
SS fuel lines/AN fittings/FPR install info
Ok, I have had a couple inquiries into how I fabricated my own SS lines and AN fittings. So here is a part list of what I used and how I did it, I used an Aeromotive FPR and Aeroquip fittings. An SX regulator is pretty much the same thing, and you can use any brand of fittings you like.. Earl's are a bit more expensive than Aeroquip. This install is NOT an easy thing to do, if you are a novice I would think twice about it. I performed this modification because I had everything apart for an unrelated repair and wanted to eliminate the stock pulsation dampener and FPR, as well as have some much more durable fuel lines. This will not make your car any faster, it just gives another level of tuneability and an easy way to watch your fuel pressure. Removing the pulsation dampener is optional, you can clamp a hose onto it instead of using fittings if you choose to do so.. there is some debate on whether or not it is necessary.
part quantity summit racing part #
10' SS braided hose x 1 AER-FCA0610
90 deg. -6AN hose end x 5 AER-FCM4032
straight -6AN hose end x 1 AER-FCM1012
1/4" NPT to -6AN straight x 1 AER-FCM2004
1/4" NPT to -6AN fitting 90 degree x 3 AER-FCM2034
-6AN plug w/rubber grommet x 1 AER-FCM3724
-6AN to -6AN male flare fitting x 2 AER-FCM2052
SX or Aeromotive FPR x 1 AEI-13109
EFI fuel pressure gauge x 1 NOS-15906
You must have both fuel rails removed and drill/re-tap them to accept the 1/4" NPT fittings. Make sure you tap them far enough in so that the fittings fit in the really really snugly, I had a fuel leak when I intially pressure tested my system and this was the problem. After you tap the fittings make sure and clean them out really good, we don't want metal shavings floating around in the fuel system! Now for the primary rail I installed two of the 90 degree fittings, this is necessary to clear the vaccum lines on the rotary housings (not sure what they are for). I installed these such that they place the -6AN side towards the driverside.. this will make more sense when you test fit everything. On the secondary rail I placed the other -1/4NPT 90 degree fitting on the inlet side (front of the car, final position with the -6AN side facing toward the passenger side) and the straight 1/4"NPT fitting on the outlet (firewall side). The SS lines run like this: I started by clamping the feed hose onto the hard fuel line coming from the fuel tank near the driver side firewall, ran this line to the inlet of the primary rail with a 90 degree hose end. Coming out of the primary rail is another 90 degree hose end, the line curves up and out over the top of the wiring harness, and back down to meet the inlet of the secondary rail with a 90 degree hose end. The outlet of the secondary rail has another 90 degree fitting on the end of the hose, runs back across the rear of the motor/bellhousing and over to the inlet on the Aeromotive FPR mounted on the driverside fenderwall, where the cruise control unit is on touring models. There are two inlets on this FPR, on must be plugged using the -6AN boss plug, the other two use the -6AN male fittings. The outlet line has a straight -6AN hose end a runs down the the hard fuel return line right next to the feed line from earlier, again clamping it on. Mount your fuel pressure gauge on the FPR and you are ready to pressure test the system, make sure you do this before you try and start the car! You need to adjust your base fuel pressure with the vacuum line disconnected or the engine off.. base pressure is 38psi.
If anyone needs pictures I can take some, I have everything back together so it is hard to see much with the UIM back on but I can do my best.
Matt
93 SSM
part quantity summit racing part #
10' SS braided hose x 1 AER-FCA0610
90 deg. -6AN hose end x 5 AER-FCM4032
straight -6AN hose end x 1 AER-FCM1012
1/4" NPT to -6AN straight x 1 AER-FCM2004
1/4" NPT to -6AN fitting 90 degree x 3 AER-FCM2034
-6AN plug w/rubber grommet x 1 AER-FCM3724
-6AN to -6AN male flare fitting x 2 AER-FCM2052
SX or Aeromotive FPR x 1 AEI-13109
EFI fuel pressure gauge x 1 NOS-15906
You must have both fuel rails removed and drill/re-tap them to accept the 1/4" NPT fittings. Make sure you tap them far enough in so that the fittings fit in the really really snugly, I had a fuel leak when I intially pressure tested my system and this was the problem. After you tap the fittings make sure and clean them out really good, we don't want metal shavings floating around in the fuel system! Now for the primary rail I installed two of the 90 degree fittings, this is necessary to clear the vaccum lines on the rotary housings (not sure what they are for). I installed these such that they place the -6AN side towards the driverside.. this will make more sense when you test fit everything. On the secondary rail I placed the other -1/4NPT 90 degree fitting on the inlet side (front of the car, final position with the -6AN side facing toward the passenger side) and the straight 1/4"NPT fitting on the outlet (firewall side). The SS lines run like this: I started by clamping the feed hose onto the hard fuel line coming from the fuel tank near the driver side firewall, ran this line to the inlet of the primary rail with a 90 degree hose end. Coming out of the primary rail is another 90 degree hose end, the line curves up and out over the top of the wiring harness, and back down to meet the inlet of the secondary rail with a 90 degree hose end. The outlet of the secondary rail has another 90 degree fitting on the end of the hose, runs back across the rear of the motor/bellhousing and over to the inlet on the Aeromotive FPR mounted on the driverside fenderwall, where the cruise control unit is on touring models. There are two inlets on this FPR, on must be plugged using the -6AN boss plug, the other two use the -6AN male fittings. The outlet line has a straight -6AN hose end a runs down the the hard fuel return line right next to the feed line from earlier, again clamping it on. Mount your fuel pressure gauge on the FPR and you are ready to pressure test the system, make sure you do this before you try and start the car! You need to adjust your base fuel pressure with the vacuum line disconnected or the engine off.. base pressure is 38psi.
If anyone needs pictures I can take some, I have everything back together so it is hard to see much with the UIM back on but I can do my best.
Matt
93 SSM
#3
1JZ powered
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Matt,
Excellent write up! I've been waiting for my summit order to arrive for me to start my fuel project. Too bad I keep forgetting to order stuff that's essential though
Excellent write up! I've been waiting for my summit order to arrive for me to start my fuel project. Too bad I keep forgetting to order stuff that's essential though
#4
Rotary Freak
iTrader: (22)
Please provide some pictures so I can see how u did your system, I am only currently planning to only modified my secondary rail, not the primary. I just want to see which port u used on the fpr? I have paxton with 3 ports I am not sure which is the in or out? thanks alot, khris
#5
Om Namah Shivaya
iTrader: (5)
Originally Posted by Rx7aholic
Please provide some pictures so I can see how u did your system, I am only currently planning to only modified my secondary rail, not the primary. I just want to see which port u used on the fpr? I have paxton with 3 ports I am not sure which is the in or out? thanks alot, khris
Khris,
On your FPR, the two side ports are "in" and the bottom port is "out."
If you have another, smaller port on the front, it is used for a fuel pressure gauge/sensor fitting.
#6
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can you post up some pics?? i understand what you did but pics would help a lot more since im going to start somthing like this in a week...
Thanks a lot and its a great writeup!!
Thanks a lot and its a great writeup!!
#7
Rotary Enthusiast
iTrader: (47)
Your right, not an easy task. I found the easiest way to cut the hose is to lay it on a 4x4 wood block, place a wood chisel on it and wack it with a hammer. Cuts it clean. The chisel has to be real sharp though. Or order the cutter that Summit has.
You might want to consider adding this: http://www.injector.com/fueldampers.php
I have one on each rail, but I am feeding each rail independantly. Just a suggestion.
A friend of mine had a notable lean spot that was corrected by adding the dampner.
You might want to consider adding this: http://www.injector.com/fueldampers.php
I have one on each rail, but I am feeding each rail independantly. Just a suggestion.
A friend of mine had a notable lean spot that was corrected by adding the dampner.
Last edited by zkeller; 02-27-05 at 07:55 AM.
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#9
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Originally Posted by the_glass_man
Just a heads up, working with AN fittings and stainless lines is one of the worst experiences in my life. You might want to purchase some soft jaws.
Piece of cake.
Chris
#10
Originally Posted by the_glass_man
Just a heads up, working with AN fittings and stainless lines is one of the worst experiences in my life. You might want to purchase some soft jaws.
-Max
#11
Rotary Enthusiast
iTrader: (47)
Originally Posted by maxcooper
less worry about eating things the hoses rub,
-Max
-Max
#12
Rotary Freak
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Hey Zkeller that's very good site they have alot of good info and they also have formula to convert to cc injectors to Lbs and Lbs injectors to cc, Anyway can u post some pictures of your setup, I would like to know how you are feeding each rail independly. Also how did manage to put that damper on the primary rail without interfereing with the soleniods?khris
#13
I had the stock rubber line that feeds the fuel filter (above the diff) burst on me today. Fortunately, a guy in a car told me about it at a stoplight and then a guy in a big rig started honking and jumped out of his truck to alert me. I pulled the car into a parking lot and parked it as fast as I could. No fire, thankfully. I fixed it in a Del Taco parking lot tonight with a straight piece of 5/16" fuel injection hose, but I think I'll order and install a new stock hose since the bends are pretty severe and I don't want it kinking and restricting flow.
So anyway, maybe those SS braided lines are a pretty good idea after all. So long as they don't rub though your fittings.
-Max
So anyway, maybe those SS braided lines are a pretty good idea after all. So long as they don't rub though your fittings.
-Max
#14
VVThat's meVV
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Just fab some hangers/brackets for the SS lines and you shoudn't have a problem with them rubbing on stuff. I know it sounds simple, but I can only think of a handful of people that take the time to go the extra 150% to make sure they don't have to worry about the little things.
#15
Rotary Freak
iTrader: (22)
http://www.bakerprecision.com/aqp2.htm
Hey check out that site they a new type of hose with already 90 degree bend and it's lighter than braided hose, they saying it's much better too. I am thinking of getting some from these, Also I am not sure if I copy the link right if it does show anything then go to they website and look for braided hose & reuseable fittings. khris
Hey check out that site they a new type of hose with already 90 degree bend and it's lighter than braided hose, they saying it's much better too. I am thinking of getting some from these, Also I am not sure if I copy the link right if it does show anything then go to they website and look for braided hose & reuseable fittings. khris
#16
Rotary Enthusiast
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Originally Posted by Rx7aholic
Hey Zkeller that's very good site they have alot of good info and they also have formula to convert to cc injectors to Lbs and Lbs injectors to cc, Anyway can u post some pictures of your setup, I would like to know how you are feeding each rail independly. Also how did manage to put that damper on the primary rail without interfereing with the soleniods?khris
#19
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I would also like some pics please. could i just run the return line from the fpr to the factory return line? I know it would depend on my setup i just havent read of any setups like that. what would be the limitations of that kind of setup
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