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SS fuel lines/AN fittings/FPR install info

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Old Sep 16, 2002 | 03:23 PM
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SS fuel lines/AN fittings/FPR install info

Ok, I have had a couple inquiries into how I fabricated my own SS lines and AN fittings. So here is a part list of what I used and how I did it, I used an Aeromotive FPR and Aeroquip fittings. An SX regulator is pretty much the same thing, and you can use any brand of fittings you like.. Earl's are a bit more expensive than Aeroquip. This install is NOT an easy thing to do, if you are a novice I would think twice about it. I performed this modification because I had everything apart for an unrelated repair and wanted to eliminate the stock pulsation dampener and FPR, as well as have some much more durable fuel lines. This will not make your car any faster, it just gives another level of tuneability and an easy way to watch your fuel pressure. Removing the pulsation dampener is optional, you can clamp a hose onto it instead of using fittings if you choose to do so.. there is some debate on whether or not it is necessary.

part quantity summit racing part #

10' SS braided hose x 1 AER-FCA0610
90 deg. -6AN hose end x 5 AER-FCM4032
straight -6AN hose end x 1 AER-FCM1012
1/4" NPT to -6AN straight x 1 AER-FCM2004
1/4" NPT to -6AN fitting 90 degree x 3 AER-FCM2034
-6AN plug w/rubber grommet x 1 AER-FCM3724
-6AN to -6AN male flare fitting x 2 AER-FCM2052
SX or Aeromotive FPR x 1 AEI-13109
EFI fuel pressure gauge x 1 NOS-15906


You must have both fuel rails removed and drill/re-tap them to accept the 1/4" NPT fittings. Make sure you tap them far enough in so that the fittings fit in the really really snugly, I had a fuel leak when I intially pressure tested my system and this was the problem. After you tap the fittings make sure and clean them out really good, we don't want metal shavings floating around in the fuel system! Now for the primary rail I installed two of the 90 degree fittings, this is necessary to clear the vaccum lines on the rotary housings (not sure what they are for). I installed these such that they place the -6AN side towards the driverside.. this will make more sense when you test fit everything. On the secondary rail I placed the other -1/4NPT 90 degree fitting on the inlet side (front of the car, final position with the -6AN side facing toward the passenger side) and the straight 1/4"NPT fitting on the outlet (firewall side). The SS lines run like this: I started by clamping the feed hose onto the hard fuel line coming from the fuel tank near the driver side firewall, ran this line to the inlet of the primary rail with a 90 degree hose end. Coming out of the primary rail is another 90 degree hose end, the line curves up and out over the top of the wiring harness, and back down to meet the inlet of the secondary rail with a 90 degree hose end. The outlet of the secondary rail has another 90 degree fitting on the end of the hose, runs back across the rear of the motor/bellhousing and over to the inlet on the Aeromotive FPR mounted on the driverside fenderwall, where the cruise control unit is on touring models. There are two inlets on this FPR, on must be plugged using the -6AN boss plug, the other two use the -6AN male fittings. The outlet line has a straight -6AN hose end a runs down the the hard fuel return line right next to the feed line from earlier, again clamping it on. Mount your fuel pressure gauge on the FPR and you are ready to pressure test the system, make sure you do this before you try and start the car! You need to adjust your base fuel pressure with the vacuum line disconnected or the engine off.. base pressure is 38psi.

If anyone needs pictures I can take some, I have everything back together so it is hard to see much with the UIM back on but I can do my best.

Matt
93 SSM
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Old Sep 16, 2002 | 04:39 PM
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sweet....I want to buy your car when you sell it
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Old Sep 16, 2002 | 07:06 PM
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Matt,

Excellent write up! I've been waiting for my summit order to arrive for me to start my fuel project. Too bad I keep forgetting to order stuff that's essential though
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Old Feb 26, 2005 | 10:43 PM
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Please provide some pictures so I can see how u did your system, I am only currently planning to only modified my secondary rail, not the primary. I just want to see which port u used on the fpr? I have paxton with 3 ports I am not sure which is the in or out? thanks alot, khris
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Old Feb 26, 2005 | 10:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Rx7aholic
Please provide some pictures so I can see how u did your system, I am only currently planning to only modified my secondary rail, not the primary. I just want to see which port u used on the fpr? I have paxton with 3 ports I am not sure which is the in or out? thanks alot, khris

Khris,

On your FPR, the two side ports are "in" and the bottom port is "out."

If you have another, smaller port on the front, it is used for a fuel pressure gauge/sensor fitting.
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Old Feb 26, 2005 | 11:35 PM
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can you post up some pics?? i understand what you did but pics would help a lot more since im going to start somthing like this in a week...

Thanks a lot and its a great writeup!!
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Old Feb 27, 2005 | 07:51 AM
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Your right, not an easy task. I found the easiest way to cut the hose is to lay it on a 4x4 wood block, place a wood chisel on it and wack it with a hammer. Cuts it clean. The chisel has to be real sharp though. Or order the cutter that Summit has.

You might want to consider adding this: http://www.injector.com/fueldampers.php

I have one on each rail, but I am feeding each rail independantly. Just a suggestion.

A friend of mine had a notable lean spot that was corrected by adding the dampner.

Last edited by zkeller; Feb 27, 2005 at 07:55 AM.
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Old Feb 27, 2005 | 07:54 AM
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Just a heads up, working with AN fittings and stainless lines is one of the worst experiences in my life. You might want to purchase some soft jaws.
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Old Feb 27, 2005 | 09:45 AM
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Originally Posted by the_glass_man
Just a heads up, working with AN fittings and stainless lines is one of the worst experiences in my life. You might want to purchase some soft jaws.
With the right tools it easy. The trick is to get a good clean cut. I used electrical tape and a dremmel cut off wheel. I wrapped the SS line with black electrical tape and cut in the middle. Clean out the center with water and unwrap the tape. Tape off the end for the fitting. Place it on a piece of wood. Put the ss end in the fitting and push. The trick is a clean SS hose cut.

Piece of cake.

Chris
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Old Feb 27, 2005 | 04:07 PM
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Originally Posted by the_glass_man
Just a heads up, working with AN fittings and stainless lines is one of the worst experiences in my life. You might want to purchase some soft jaws.
There are some advantages to staying rubber -- cheaper, lighter, less worry about eating things the hoses rub, easier to service. AN-6 to 5/16" hose barb fittings are available in straight (~$5) and 90 degree (~$20) versions from Pegasus (they are Gates parts) to connect to an FPR. Or you could use some AN-to-NPT fittings in the FPR and use some female NPT fittings to connect to the 5/16" rubber fuel hose. There are some light and easier-to-work with alternatives in the "nice fittings" (Earls, etc.) world, too. I am not knocking the braided SS stuff -- certainly it results in a reliable and attractive plumbing solution. But it is worth considering the alternatives, IMO. I stayed rubber on my car.

-Max
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Old Feb 27, 2005 | 08:58 PM
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Originally Posted by maxcooper
less worry about eating things the hoses rub,
-Max
You are right there. I had the braided line up against a 90 degree fitting. Overtime it started to rub through. If I would not have taken the UIM off for another reason, I would have never found it until it rubbed completely through and poof.
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Old Feb 28, 2005 | 08:49 PM
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Hey Zkeller that's very good site they have alot of good info and they also have formula to convert to cc injectors to Lbs and Lbs injectors to cc, Anyway can u post some pictures of your setup, I would like to know how you are feeding each rail independly. Also how did manage to put that damper on the primary rail without interfereing with the soleniods?khris
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Old Mar 1, 2005 | 05:06 AM
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I had the stock rubber line that feeds the fuel filter (above the diff) burst on me today. Fortunately, a guy in a car told me about it at a stoplight and then a guy in a big rig started honking and jumped out of his truck to alert me. I pulled the car into a parking lot and parked it as fast as I could. No fire, thankfully. I fixed it in a Del Taco parking lot tonight with a straight piece of 5/16" fuel injection hose, but I think I'll order and install a new stock hose since the bends are pretty severe and I don't want it kinking and restricting flow.

So anyway, maybe those SS braided lines are a pretty good idea after all. So long as they don't rub though your fittings.

-Max
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Old Mar 1, 2005 | 10:20 AM
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Just fab some hangers/brackets for the SS lines and you shoudn't have a problem with them rubbing on stuff. I know it sounds simple, but I can only think of a handful of people that take the time to go the extra 150% to make sure they don't have to worry about the little things.
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Old Mar 1, 2005 | 09:00 PM
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http://www.bakerprecision.com/aqp2.htm
Hey check out that site they a new type of hose with already 90 degree bend and it's lighter than braided hose, they saying it's much better too. I am thinking of getting some from these, Also I am not sure if I copy the link right if it does show anything then go to they website and look for braided hose & reuseable fittings. khris
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Old Mar 1, 2005 | 09:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Rx7aholic
Hey Zkeller that's very good site they have alot of good info and they also have formula to convert to cc injectors to Lbs and Lbs injectors to cc, Anyway can u post some pictures of your setup, I would like to know how you are feeding each rail independly. Also how did manage to put that damper on the primary rail without interfereing with the soleniods?khris
I am in the middle of the project right now. I only have the dampner mounted on the secondary rail at this point. I do not have any vaccumm solinoids to worry about. They are all gone.
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Old Mar 1, 2005 | 09:47 PM
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Oh yea, I am running a -8AN line up for the fuel feed to a -8AN to 2 -6AN y fitting, then take each -6AN to each rail. I am then running a -6AN back to my SX fuel pressure regulator with a -6AN back to the tank as a return. The y fitting is a NOS fitting.
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Old Mar 9, 2005 | 09:15 PM
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Some pictures will help me out alot, btw what size tap u used to tap the primary rail for the daper? khris
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Old Apr 9, 2005 | 08:07 PM
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I would also like some pics please. could i just run the return line from the fpr to the factory return line? I know it would depend on my setup i just havent read of any setups like that. what would be the limitations of that kind of setup
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Old May 3, 2005 | 09:57 PM
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Btw how do u pressure test and adjust the pressure with the engine off? khris
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