First, Steve do you have any ready for sale and in stock? Second, I searched but didn't find any feedback on anyone using the pan yet in regards to leaks. Just wondering since I was about to help a friend try to fix his and wouldn't mind picking up 2 of these pans.

Thanks

Tim

 

Not sure about the aspec oil pan but, My close friend has had problems sealing his stock oil pan. He bought the upgraded oil pan w/ o ring from Pineapple Racing and guess what. It still leaks like a ****.

 

Great, sounds like he is doing something wrong no offense. I have oil pans in stock if your interested I've installed quite a few no leaks if your interested call the shop.

-Sean

 

are you sure it was an oil pan leak to begin with and not a front cover gasket leaK?

Tim

 

Use Hondabond for the oil pan. We use that on all of our rebuilds with very few problems.

Jason

 

Is this the same oil pan you guys sell? He was told from pineapple racing that sealant was not needed. It's leaking on the rear of the motor. He's taking it off now to seal it.

Anyways, not trying to stir anything up

 

Have him check the rear main seal that is prone to cracking and leaking oil thru the bell housing. It gives the appearance that the oil pan is leaking in the rear.

Jason

 

It's brand new.

 

Eric,
tell him NOT to use sealant. only use the o-ring thats provided. tell him to recheck the face of the pan and make sure its completely secured to the motor. I havent seen one leak yet

 

Well, what the hell...........I'll call him and tell him. Any other reason why that pan would be leaking? It's def coming from the rear side of the pan.

Lemme know, buster

 

Do not use sealent on the pan, the o-ring should do it's job he made need to spend some time tracking where the oil is coming from, I have had rear plates that were cracked in the threads where the motor mount bolts go I wound up having to o-ring a motor mount to get the leak to stop, but it worked. Check the rear main also check the oil drain on the turbos as well, he should clean the whole area thoroughly make sure it's dry, start the car and sit under there till he can see where it is coming from. It may take more than one time to find it exactly.

 

He's got a new main. He's gone single so it's not his oil return lines. This is the 5th time he's taken his oil pan off for this same motor because of the oil leaks. It's always in a different spot. I watched it for him, it's coming from the rear drivers side corner. None of the bolts are stripped. No visible cracks in the housings/plate etc etc etc.

Hell, I dunno....

 

just a thought - possibly the motor mounts leaking?

-b

 

There could be a gouge or uneven place on the housing and the pan/o-ring wont seal properly. You could use a straight edge and place it on the bottom of the engine in different directions and angles and use a feeler gauge to check for uneven places.

Stephen

 

I went through the four-try resealing saga this summer myself... tried it with gasket and sealer, just sealer (mazda stuff each time), then a new factory pan, and then the combo that finally worked was scrupulous cleaning and drying, the new pan, a Gotham oil pan brace (thanks Rich), and some new sealer from Toyota that my mechanic tried. Not a drop since.

 

You really want to check closely the holes in the housings for the engine mounts.

My old 93 had some warranty 'work' done at the stealer. They didn't clean out old sealant from the hole and torqued the bolt in. It stripped and cracked the hole and caused tons of oil to leak out. I had to put a helicoil in place to get it to seal up correctly.

That was when I swore I would never take it back to a Mazda dealer and haven't since.

 

Steve or Sean,

How much extra for the oil level sender to be added in?

Tim

 

I ordered mine with one, $75 extra at that time. However, when they got it in and pre tested it, they said that the sensor installation was not effective because they didn't have a small housing around the sensor inside the pan as the stock one does. So the sender would read erratically.

I don't know if they fixed that, but I then decided to get one without the sender. I figured that since I check the oil every week anyways it will be fine. I am also putting in a Defi oil pressure guage so the light for low oil level will be gone.

 

Exactly what he said, also to eric I bet it's coming from the motor mount holes as I stated above. It's been known to happen to quite a few people.

 

Do you still have to "shave" the motor mounts so that the engine isn't jacked up?

 

I am going to when I put the car back together. It's about 10mm higher. If you're getting a set of urethane mounts, just have them shave off 8 or 9mm.

 

the level sensor is not used anymore

 

I'm all for supporting the aftermarket for the FD, but exactly how much oil would you have to leak to justify the $400+ the pan costs? Especially with their being no guarantee that it won't still leak (evidently)...

 

Well some of us bought the oil pan not for the fact that it doesn't leak oil(for most of us) but because it strengthens the engine(10mm aluminum plate on the bottom will keep the motor from flexing tension bolts)

 

i dont know anyone who put this pan on and ever had a leak again.. The friend of "Gargamal" who has leaks, i think has another issue with the face of the oil pan flange not being "even" or a bolt being stripped. I have this pan on my personal daily driver FD and before i always had oil pan leaks, once i installed it i never had oil leaks again! besides being rigid it also gives you extra capacity for more oil