Sparkplug replacement tutorial needed
#1
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Sparkplug replacement tutorial needed
Well its that time of year I ussaully do a tune up on my cars and I was looking for a walkthrough for replacing sparkplugs on my FD. anyone know of any?
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#8
~17 MPG
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I don't know what Yellow Freight IT Dept. is, but I'm able to change my sparkplugs from above without removing any components (note: my car doesn't have a strut tower bar or cruise control). All you need is a stubby socket wrench and a set of Mechanix gloves.
I had to change plugs in the parking lot after work once (long story, don't ask), and it didn't take any more than 10-20 minutes. Once you've done it a few times, you can change them without even having to look down there. Just be smart and replace each plug before you remove the next one; otherwise you might put the wires back in the wrong place.
-s-
I had to change plugs in the parking lot after work once (long story, don't ask), and it didn't take any more than 10-20 minutes. Once you've done it a few times, you can change them without even having to look down there. Just be smart and replace each plug before you remove the next one; otherwise you might put the wires back in the wrong place.
-s-
#11
I guess most of ya'll missed the fact that the member that wrote the "how to" everyones making fun of also change the plug wires too, not just the plugs.
I'm no expert but I don't see how you could change the plug wires from below at all.
I'm no expert but I don't see how you could change the plug wires from below at all.
#14
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Here are the steps.
1) jack up front of car and get it on jackstands (5 min)
2) crawl under drivers side of car (0 min)
3) look up at the spark plugs (0 min)
4) use deep socked to remove plugs (5 min)
5) put new plugs back in - match leading and trailing plugs with big T and L on the engine block(5 min)
6) get car off jackstands (5min)
7) take a brake and relax with a beer(1 hr)
total time, 20 min!
hopefully, your leading plugs dont look like mine did when I changed them last week
1) jack up front of car and get it on jackstands (5 min)
2) crawl under drivers side of car (0 min)
3) look up at the spark plugs (0 min)
4) use deep socked to remove plugs (5 min)
5) put new plugs back in - match leading and trailing plugs with big T and L on the engine block(5 min)
6) get car off jackstands (5min)
7) take a brake and relax with a beer(1 hr)
total time, 20 min!
hopefully, your leading plugs dont look like mine did when I changed them last week
Last edited by RE-Amemiya7; 05-30-07 at 09:02 PM.
#15
AponOUT!?
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Here are the steps.
1) jack up front of car and get it on jackstands (5 min)
2) crawl under drivers side of car (0 min)
3) look up at the spark plugs (0 min)
4) use deep socked to remove plugs (5 min)
5) put new plugs back in (5 min)
6) get car off jackstands (5min)
7) take a brake and relax with a beer(1 hr)
total time, 20 min!
1) jack up front of car and get it on jackstands (5 min)
2) crawl under drivers side of car (0 min)
3) look up at the spark plugs (0 min)
4) use deep socked to remove plugs (5 min)
5) put new plugs back in (5 min)
6) get car off jackstands (5min)
7) take a brake and relax with a beer(1 hr)
total time, 20 min!
#17
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wires or plugs...I dont see how you guys have to take stuff off, or get under the car. I just grab a ratchet and the socket, stick my arm down there, and change em. Pretty quick process.
#18
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who said anything about wires? Binary89 asked about plugs.
If you want to change the spark plug wires, thats a whole different can of worms. The whole upper intake track needs to come off before you can even begin to get access to the coils.
If you want to change the spark plug wires, thats a whole different can of worms. The whole upper intake track needs to come off before you can even begin to get access to the coils.
#20
Mr. Links
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Ah, everyone is talking about plugs, not wires. The OP is asking about plugs. I simply posted the link because it also has information about the plug change as well. Most people don't normally change their spark plug wires every time they change their plugs so there are many times when you'll only change the plugs and not the wires.
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#22
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I started doing mine from the top. All i had to do was remove the intake elbow.
Yes if you're already doing your oil, then doing the plugs from the bottom is easier cause you're already under there.
But for me to take the jack out, then jackstands, then getting on the floor, it takes too much time.
At least with the intake elbow, 4 little nuts and the plugs are right there ready to be taken out.
Yes if you're already doing your oil, then doing the plugs from the bottom is easier cause you're already under there.
But for me to take the jack out, then jackstands, then getting on the floor, it takes too much time.
At least with the intake elbow, 4 little nuts and the plugs are right there ready to be taken out.
#23
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I've been doing my plugs from the top without removing stuff. It's easier without the cruise control in there, but all I need to do is sneak one arm past the tb elbow and I can reach them all.
It helps to have a feeling for what's down there, and to change them one at a time so the wires don't get crossed up.
Dave
It helps to have a feeling for what's down there, and to change them one at a time so the wires don't get crossed up.
Dave
#24
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I do mine from the bottom. I have a lift, but even before that I put the car on stands and access was a piece of cake. Besides, I think it's a good idea to inspect your car from the bottom once in a while.
Do one at a time, be sure to use a little anti-seize, and careful not to get any on the business tip of the plug. Don't go crazy tight, IIRC the FSM only calls for about 15 lb ft torque.
You didn't ask, but I think most here stay with NGK (OEM), Advance Auto etc. all seem to carry them. I don't think platinum versions are worth the extra price, but some people do. If your not heavily modded, stay with the stock heat ranges.
Do one at a time, be sure to use a little anti-seize, and careful not to get any on the business tip of the plug. Don't go crazy tight, IIRC the FSM only calls for about 15 lb ft torque.
You didn't ask, but I think most here stay with NGK (OEM), Advance Auto etc. all seem to carry them. I don't think platinum versions are worth the extra price, but some people do. If your not heavily modded, stay with the stock heat ranges.