I was changing spark plugs today and the two from the rear rotor came out fine but the front rotor spark plugs won't budge. Its the firts time they are being changed since its a new motor and I just hit the right amount of miles. ANY Suggestions???

 

Maybe spray some pentrating lube on them, work them back and forth (tighten and loosen). When you get them out (positive thinking here), make sure to use anti-seize on the new plug threads. I have some "nuclear" grade anti-seize, rated for 2850 degrees. Always does the trick for me. I use it on just about everything, makes taking things apart next time so much easier.

 

Did you put the plugs in? If so was there any trouble getting them in? Hopefully nothing is cross threaded or anything.

 

I put the plugs in the rear rotor no problem, but the front rotor plugs won't even budge. I put some anti seize on the plugs for the rear rotor as well. What if the front ones don't come out? Am i pretty much screwed?

 

The spark plugs can only have so much torque on them, especially since they've got a crush washer. And corrosion can't be a problem if the engine is fairly new. You probably just need to get a better wrench angle on them. Have you tried rolling the jacking the car up on stands and approaching them from the bottom?

 

Yeah i jacked it up but still cant get a great amount of torque on them. All the local shops are closed till monday, so i am thinking about taking it to them so they can get it on the lift. But, if that isnt the problem (hopefully it is) what options are there if they are seized?

 

sound like you are attempting removing the front from below...I have tried this and failed due to lack of leverage...I thought mine was seized too...scary & frustrated feeling.

To remove plugs from top of engine first remove the intake tube going from the IC to TB, spray liquid wrench or wd 40, let it soaked (30 minutes +). If the plugs start to break loose...stop and soak them some more...repeat 2-3 times then it will come out.

Use anti seized compound.

Good luck.

 

Thanks for the advice. Someone suggested warming the engine up as well. I slightly bent the porceline part of the plug poking out of the engine ( i guess the wrench wasn't angled correctly) so now you can see a spark coming from the plug with it installed. Is it safe to drive around 3 miles to the shop?

 

Tried to remove the spark plugs from the front rotor again this morning. After warming the engine, i removed the IC piping to the TB so i was able to get at the plugs from the top. I was able to remove the top plug (9) but the bottom plug(7) still wont budge. So now i have 3 new plugs with that damaged bottom plug, hopefully the shop can break it loose tomorrow.

 

try fitting a breaker bar on it, maybe even with a 12 point if ur feeling lucky

 

Maybe a stupid question but, what do you mean by breaker bar??

 

Breaker bar can be achieved by putting a pipe on the wrench to effectively make the wrench longer. This can also be accomplised by hooking the hooking the closed end of a wrench inside the open end of a wrench (i.e. put the closed end of the spark plug wrench on the spark plug and then put the closed end of another wrench on the open end of the spark plug wrench and now you have a wrench that is almost twice as long).

I must warn you, you really need to be careful trying to get this bish out. As somebody mentioned, the sparkplug can only take so much torque before it snaps off. I know this for a fact!! If it DOES snap off, you're in for a whole bunch of work and possibly a whole bunch of money!!

 

A slightly different answer - a breaker bar is usually defined as a (sometimes long-handled) non-ratcheting socket handle.

As some have already said, I think that the most effective way to break a stuck spark-plug loose from an aluminum thread would be the combination of heat (running the engine until hot) and repeated applications of penetrating oil. Also, as previously mentioned, be careful, and don't break it off!

 

ok, i knew about that, but have never heard it in that termanology before. I figure the shop might have an air ratchet that might do the job.

 

IMO,

Air ratchet + seized plug = plug broken off in hole

 

I second the breaker bar.

OR

Go to a plumbing store or maybe even a hardware store and get a 24, 30 or even a 36 inch black steel nipple in 3/4 inch diameter size. Should be about 5 or 6 bucks.

Since you are doing this from the top now, put your ratchet on like you're ready to take the plugs off and put the black steel nipple over the ratchet handle, then standing from the front of the car, pull the steel pipe towards you. With this long extension, you'll have the leverage of popping that plug loose.

Good luck

 

Another thing to worry about is galling the threads so use plenty of penetrating oil and go slow. If that happens (galled), your screwed as well since the new plug won't have any thread to turn into.


Tim

 

i would think a huge breaker bar would break the plug before an air tool

breaker bar: some rotational force, huge amount of shearing side force especially with an extension on it and especially if the bar is offset from the base of the plug, which it probably is because of the spark plug socket

air ratchet: almsot all rotational force

that shearing force in my experience is what breaks my bolts...

all said, i would go with working it back and forth with a regular size (like less than a foot) 3/8 breaker bar, while using PB blaster and engine heats

good luck and be careful!

 

Took the car to the shop today and they removed the plug for me. It took the shop a couple hours but they got it out with no problems. Out $30 but it could be a lot worse. THANKS for all the help and advice.

 

$30?? Sounds like a deal considering what it could have cost. Congrats dude!! BTW, what did they do?

 

The guys at the shop are real cool ($30). Im not sure what all they did besides getting it up on the lift for a better angle because I wasn't able to stay and watch.

 

If they only charged you $30 for two hours, that is a deal. Plus, it has to feel good to get that damn plug out. Now, make sure you use anti sieze on them.