maREX7

Ok so here it goes slowly but rolling forward.

My JDM 92 FD3S has had some issues so im gonna list it...

• ~20 oil drips from under the engine bay every 24h (heavily suspect oil pan, bad gasket used engine rebuilt NOT BY ME ~13k miles ago)
• secondary turbo not always boosting (partially fixed but just needs really well looked in to entire rats nest)
• water leakage on the passenger side rear and front floor/flooding in rear seat
• alarm system with central locks is bolox, good stuff going in with remote auto start
• interior rubber coating was pealing and all crackling squeaky at places
• poxy gauges fitted in stereo compartment

So, things Ive done so far:

• complete interior is out of the car only steering wheel and roof liner remains
• car drying now in warm dry storage and found all water leakage points, will be preparing for tigersealing
• have viper 5000'series with paging and autostart for every morning motor warmup with ease.
• Im planing on taking the motor out in next weeks so I can do all vacuum hoses replacement to the very last one since these are all STOCK rubber cooked up hoses and all vacuum solenoids are really poor condition, so I really went to know: what I/D and O/D hose sizes I need and in what minimum lengths so I dont run in to shortage while working on the motor, the idea of asking before removal I wanna do all this during the Xmas period so its ready right after and I can pre-buy stuff now so it arrives in time before Xmas!
• Have spare pillar cover for driver side so i will do retrofit 3-4 gauges I got for this RX7, these are ProSport EVO series LED gauges,
• Also have powerFC with complete programming kit so will need to learn that later too.
• Have HKS turbo timer with HKS FD3S harness
  
• Have new BIG aluminium radiator with new silicone hoses for it
• will need to buy primary oxygen sensor as I found mysteriously hanging wire out of my old oxygen sensor... need your advice where to look for one...

Its currently OEM twin turbo setup and Im going to keep it this way probably until next motor rebuild or until turbo's lives to their performance






your help and input fellas is highly appreciated!

Jrexx6

iTrader: (6)

Ok here are a couple answers for you:

If you have an oil pan gasket, you should replace with RTV. Buy some acetone also, it's really good for degreasing it.

Vacuum job: Rx7 Projects: Vac Hose Job

You can get a Bosch O2 sensor from most auto parts stores like NAPA

Hope this helps, good luck with the build

maREX7

Awsome, yea I have new non-OEM mazda oil pan gasket , I hope its good enough or should I just discard that and order OEM?

Yea I do have acetone already here just need that RTV
and if Im right the primary oxygen sensor is only 1 wire correct?

that link doesnt open for me at all... could it be banned by my ISP? maybe you can snapshot PDF copy of that page you linked and upload it to rapidshare or other file hosting for me?

Highly appreciate that!

SpAm@FC

iTrader: (4)

there are HUGE discussions regarding the oil pan leakage. You can spent hours on reading if you are searching trough the threads.

My solution: GOOD RTV, STRAIGHT oil pan and the oilpan brace by banzai racing.

As you are also from europe, you can order a banzai-racing "style" brace from dm-motorsports located in uk.
Here's the link: RX7 FD3S Oil Sump Brace Kit

As you also want to redo the rat's nest and thinking about upgrading your twins ->
I've a set of new bnr stage 3's, a set of AzEknights aftermarket custom solenoid rack, good quality silicone hoses, 99-spec y-pipe and all the gaskets/water hoses for sale shoto me a PM if you are intrested

Good luck with your project.

maREX7

Oh yes I see that brace now yea its on my list, thanks for heads up

I do currently have twins and there were running great when I got them going but hose job is terrible around my motor so its all due to be replaced with fresh hoses, and as you mentioned I will need water hoses too... i wonder if I could pick all hoses locally cheaper if i found all the measures and knew minimal length I need so I can buy extra not to be short as said earlier...

so you suggest use no gasket just sealant and thats it?

SpAm@FC

iTrader: (4)

yes sir, no gasket, just good quality rtv + the oil pan brace... the US guys love "the right stuff" (yes, this is a brand )
Just use a good black rtv from your favourite supplier, no el cheapo stuff.
also be sure to tighten all the bolts/nuts to OEM torque specs and the most important thing: ATTACH YOUR ENGINE MOUNTS together with your oil pan! This is really important for a leak free oil pan, also use OEM torque specs here!

most of the water hoses are pre-bend in tight radii... you don't want to use some cheap, un-bend hose that WILL kink... I highly recommend to only use OEM Mazda water hoses. They don't cost a fortune and will hold up another 10+ years. No need to reinvent the wheel

maREX7

alright, I will source OEM pre-bent waterpipes, but what about all vacuum hoses I/D & O/D measures? what size and length for each size should I look for (again, not to get short on them while replacing all)

sue thing, all only OEM torque specs, I know what that means haha

EDIT

and about oxygen sensor - is it just wire sensor located in upper engine bay closer to the frewall accessible from the top of the engine where exhaust manis go?

SpAm@FC

iTrader: (4)

You also find a TON information about sizing I/D & O/D and recommended vacuum hose lenghts.
You will also find different tastes.
Some guys, for example, use 3.5mm inner diameter hose, other use 4.00mm inner diameter hose + super glue, others use 4.00mm inner diameter hose + super glue + zip ties, other use 3.5mm inner diameter hose + zip ties + super glue...

you've found 2/4 holy grails on this forums oil pan leakage + vacuum hose job.
You will find the third and fourth grail if you ask for oil weight/type and for premix

please use the search function for future reference about vacuum hose jobs.
I like this post by DaleClark very much
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...our-fd-904277/

also change your stock check valves with daleclark's viton valves!

While you are that deep into your engine, I would also recommend to eliminate your FPD (fuel pulsation dampener) or install a new one and check your fule lines

maREX7

Ive heard about premix but there are sooooo many different opinions I just chose to stick to RON95 fuel and be here than experiment... I would like to know more and to be exact - PRECISE info about that but im not going to re-read hundreds opinions and count those who vote most hehe, its hard to get real good info.

about the remaining stuff Ive no idea I will probably look in to that too.

Ive a bag of viton chack valves here ready

I would choose tight fit 3.5mm + zip ties but no way a glue...hate this glue idea, what about the other measurements are these all to the last ones 3.5mm ok to use? I think I have spotted thicker tubes deeper but have no idea what size are they...

I will try to read on and search on when some free time comes handy, most time pretty busy thats the blame

jkstill

iTrader: (11)

Make sure it it is the oil pan leaking.

There been several times I thought I had a leaky oil pan, only to find out it was something else:
turbo return, oil filler, OMP and and at least a couple others.

A few months ago I fixed 4 oil leaks, they all looked like oil pan leaks, but none of them were.

When something leaks, it usually drips off the pan, so just make sure you know where the leak originates before you 'fix' it.

scotty305

iTrader: (2)

Agreed. I thought my car had a leaky oil pan, it turns out the oil leak was coming from the rear main seal and/or rear stationary gear o-ring. We found this by removing the inspection plate from the transmission; there was oil on the inside of the bellhousing which was then dripping down and making its way to the oil pan. After replacing both of these (without touching the oil pan) the car is leak free.

Jrexx6

iTrader: (6)

Yes "The Right Stuff" is awesome, that's what I used. It's expensive here in Canada, but I think about 20 bucks a can in the states. Silicone water hoses are great as well. I use Racing Beat ones. I think they were 90 bucks or so. Also if you reseal your pan, it's a good idea to switch to studs instead of using the bolts. It's much harder to strip the holes that way. You will have to lower the subframe as well when you do that job if I remember correctly. Good luck.

maREX7

hey people. its been a while and im taking forever on this, however I have engine out and its fliped on the flywheel now so Ive been working my way on oilpan, it was really leaky but had more minor leaks looks like fill pipe was little greasy and front crank seal could have been leaking I duno, but front crank seal is more like condensation nothing serious so as motor just been rebuilt 12k miles ago I guess Im just gona leave that as is and see where it goes.

lower the subframe because of using oil pan brace?

maREX7

Bump^^^

and also, who can tell me if Im thinking sense or what...

I am running stock motor with stock ECU (only air pump out), but also have complete Apexi PFC kit for it. So I am thinking replacing the stock Oxygen/Lambda sensor for this car (I think there is only 1 oxygen/lambda sensor - RIGHT/WRONG?) and coming to an idea because I want to run apexi PFC I dont know how relevant is a good replacement Oxygen sensor for APEXI PFC? also I have APEXI programmer and logger equipment , and Im willing to learn mapping rotary down the road later, also have A/F gauge which I believe has to be hooked to proper wideband oxygen sensor, and so the same way is the mapping and logging being done using this wideband, correct me if Im wrong. So the major question is - do I must have OEM oxygen sensor equipped along with additional wideband oxygen sensor, or would only wideband oxygen sensor would do the job as for stock ECU and later for APEXI PFC and mapping and things?

I really need wise advice on this one!

Thanks fellas

XLR8

iTrader: (52)

^

The OEM sensor is a narrow band and is only used for light load transitions such as cruising. With the purchase of a PowerFC, you have a few options.

First, you will need a wide-band to tune with and as you mentioned, the 0-5v analog output will connect to the datalogit so you can datalog as you drive for tuning. You will want to install the wide-band into the midpipe, not in the stock location. The midpipe will still get an accurate reading and it is a much cooler location. Your sensor will last much longer.

Second, your OEM O2 sensor can stay in place. Within the PowerFC menu, there is a place to turn its capability on and off. Many people do this for single turbo cars. Whether you "need" a new sensor or not depends on what you want to do in the PowerFC. I would cruise over to the ECU section and do a search. The OEM 02 has been discussed quite a bit, as well as its benefits and faults.

maREX7

Thanks for your reply, that sounds reasonable explanation... since Im not going to run PFC right after I put my car back together I believe I want to replace OEM sensor just to have it in place working for OEM ECU for the time being, and later I want to get test pipe with wideband for PFC use and mapping/tuning/logging.

I will go trough ECU forum in some time, thanks for the hint!

And yea I did read about the longlivety of wideband cons and pros due to heat exposure, thanks for the hint x2