Ok , so I installed my FMIC its a custom setup , with Full 3 inch piping after the Y pipe

Intake air temps seem a bit colder then stock .. BUT I'm surprised by howmuch faster the car feels . Butt dyno is known to be a bit of a fibber .. But I definitely felt something more ..

ofcourse it may just be the increased boost .. .


Car was boosting at 12 PSI , on first and second gear , and would get 13 psi 3rd and 4th ,

but I boosted 14 psi , in second gear .


So I'm trying to understand the physics of WHY , I thought I would have more lag and probably less boost . and would have to adjust my boost controller .

This is complete opposite haha

is this normal? is the stock IC that restrictive?? did I gain some power from just the FMIC at same IAT , or is the extra power simply the extra psi

 

yes

and set aside a savings account for the new engine.

 

I'll be tunning the boost back to 12 psi , But I do have upgraded injectors.

 

Colder temps and lower pressure drop contribute to higher boost levels. The fact that you have to turn down the boost shows that the mod was a step in the right direction.

 

thanks I hope thats the case , but now I'm a little worried . WHY must i start saving for a rebuild ! LOL

 

In case you have not retuned the ECU do so. Going from stock to FMIC is quite a lot of more HP. And you are even seeing more boost, so turn it down.

The FMIC will cool the air alot more and will make you gain hp on the same boost lvl.

Is the AF ratio the same?

JT

 

A lot of the time people do not realize that they have a boost leak due to a failed accordian hose, coupler, clamp, etc . Installation of a new IC eliminates all the worn out parts and the boost at the engine increases.

 

I had replaced my accordian hoses , and well the only possible leak would of been from the Ypipe but it looked pretty good . But I do believe you may be right . who knows where there might of been a boost leak . glad things are better now reguardless


Also , My ecu is tuned for 14 psi . and + I just turned it down for turbo longevity's sake

 

I had a very noticeable increase in turbo lag when I went from the greddy SMIC to the blitz FMIC. Also, the transition did not hit as hard with the blitz. With the Stock and greddy SMIC, the transition felt like a small shot of nitrous. With the big blitz FMIC, the power kind of faded in instead of coming on like an on/off switch. I did notice a slight power increase in the higher rpm with the FMIC.

Watch your water temps and build custom ducting for your radiator if your IC did not come with it. Here in Houston, it was hard to keep them under control. Swapped to VMIC in 2012.

 

My question is why do you have 952 posts and just TODAY did basic bolt-ons?!

 

Because I built my car from this MOV01801.mp4 Video by Tem120 | Photobucket MOV01802.mp4 Video by Tem120 | Photobucket

Using this forum , and the FSM

And I rather waste money on driving events then on go fast parts .

Plus I was happy with my power level , only reason I even wanted to upgrade my IC is because of heat soak which is why I didnt go with a larger SMIC rather with a Fmic I would of gone with V mount had I the money for it .

Also FMIC requires some fab work , and cutting .. Nothing abotu a FMIC is basic .

 

i have been watching them closely hottest its gotten is 88 C , and climbs down when the fan kicks on . and stays at 85 while cruising . so far.

 

Yeah...I still can't believe you got a running car out of that thing. Now I feel like I complain too much about my car.

 

Pictures Please

 

I just wanted the car to drive , you want something that will break necks and drive .

 

This is true however, I have put aside most of the appearance mods til after I finish doing the reliability/ cheap performance mods. The coilovers and wheels were just the best of both worlds.