I just finally put a end to this damn starter click problem. Hope that this helps my fellow rotor heads.



First, put a volt meter across the batteries terminals (directly on the battery, not the
clamps) on the battery and have someone turn the key to start. If the
battery voltage drops significantly (like under 8 volts) you either have a
bad battery or a short in the starter. If you claim of having the battery
checked means you had it load tested with the result being 883 CCA, then I
would replace the starter.


If the battery holds, leave the one lead on the battery positive and move the ground lead of the meter to the alternator case, make sure you have a good connection (showing battery
voltage) and have someone turn the key again. If the meter now falls to
near zero, you have a bad ground, possibly where it connects to the engine
(lug near the alternator) or a bad wire itself.


If the voltage still holds, it is time to get under the vehicle. As you probably know, the starter has
two wires going to it, the smaller one powers the solenoid and the larger
one powers the starter. Put your meters positive lead on the smaller wire
and the ground to the starter or some other piece of clean metal and have
someone turn the key. You should get close to battery voltage here when the
key is moved to start and if not you have a problem on the low current side.

If you get battery voltage here, move the positive lead to the large
connection and hit the key again. Battery voltage should always be here and
if it significantly drops when the key is turned, it indicates either a bad
connection or corroded wire from the battery to this connection.

If the voltage does not change when the key is turned, this indicates a problem
with the starter. On the bottom of the starter there is a connection from
the solenoid to the starter windings and it has a rubber cover over it.
Connect your meter to this lead (under the cover) and have someone turn the
key again.

If no voltage or a very low voltage appears, this indicates a
bad solenoid and if full battery voltage appears, you have a bad starter.


All of these tests assume that the starter is not turning during the tests.


Battery produces 12.8v with a full charge and no load and engine off. Battery should jump
to 14v with engine running. Measure battery voltage with starter
cranking(load test). Voltage should not drop below 9v during cranking.
Voltage should recover quickly after cranking


Here`s a link to the ignition switch repair...GOOD LUCK!
http://home.att.net/~miataville/

 

Thanks for a good post, I'm planning on testing my own grounding and potentially add a grounding cable from my battery to somewhere inside the engine bay.

I have relocated the battery to the rear seat and the ground is connected where the back seatbelt used to be.

My main problem right now is that I sometimes have to turn the key 2-3 times for the starter to kick in. When I turn it, it's just dead silence. Sometimes it starts on first try. Is this an indication on a problem with power, or maybe my starter is going bad? I'm not sure, but I think I had the same problem with the battery inside the engine bay.

 

When dianosing your electrical system it`s really touchy feelly, you really need to go through the process of elimination. I don`t feel that your problem is, as a result of you relocating the battery... it`s just more pronounce now because the voltage has further to travel. Take the time and go through the steps.

Let me know, Good Luck!

Andre