Solinoid Rack Is Kicking My Ass! Help
Solinoid Rack Is Kicking My ***! Help
Im doing my vac hose and FPD so i have eveything out, alt,upper man, intakebox, ACV, and now im at the rack i search for how to remove it and it says that there are 4 screws that would have to come out, i did that and the SOB rounded out on me so i drilled them out but i stillhave the back 4, i was just wondering were those the 4 that i needed to take off, i tried to move it but it would not budge, if anyone can help me take it out that lives in MD would be great.
Maybe this will help.
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=114232
I just took the whole thing out. I've got a couple pics in that thread, too.
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=114232
I just took the whole thing out. I've got a couple pics in that thread, too.
im thinking about going non seq the hell with all those line but i do have some ? if you know somthing about the non seq setup. would it effect emmission, can i use my AVCR, and do i have to have a stand alone FC
you probably wont get full boost till about 3500-4000 rpms.
IF you have a mini screwdriver that u can put into a socket u can socket wrench those last screws out on the back, just make sure you put an ASSLOAD of pressure into it. you can also try hitting the screws from the side of the head at the downward angle that would loosen them...like this heres the screw
/ <-screwdriver
0 <- screw
you can also try getting some heavy duty pliars and twisting it that way, but Im not sure if u can get those back in there.
good luck!!
IF you have a mini screwdriver that u can put into a socket u can socket wrench those last screws out on the back, just make sure you put an ASSLOAD of pressure into it. you can also try hitting the screws from the side of the head at the downward angle that would loosen them...like this heres the screw / <-screwdriver
0 <- screw
you can also try getting some heavy duty pliars and twisting it that way, but Im not sure if u can get those back in there.
good luck!!
I got 2 screws rounded last time.
What I did is using a flat screwdriver and hammer.
I hit the screw from the side of screw(above). Make some dent in the screw, and keep hitting the dent, slowly the screw will break loose and turn. Keep doing it until the screw is out.
Reza
What I did is using a flat screwdriver and hammer.
I hit the screw from the side of screw(above). Make some dent in the screw, and keep hitting the dent, slowly the screw will break loose and turn. Keep doing it until the screw is out.
Reza
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those screws are not kind. if you are going to mod the car further, i say go ahead with the removal of the rack. there is too much **** in there that is headache material in the future.
you will have some considerable lag on a stock ECU with the mods that you listed. i have almost every mod with the exception of the ECU. mid pipe, dp, cat back, fuel pump, yadda......
do not fall for the ecu thing, especiall if yo udo not have the money. i do recommend running with an upgraded fuel though. 10-11 pounds of boost IF CONTROLLED is fine on the stock ecu.
i have the lag everyone talks about. i get FULL boost around 4100rpm. i am getting a power fc here soon and will be looking to see what the spool up difference is whith the new unit in place....
my .02
you will have some considerable lag on a stock ECU with the mods that you listed. i have almost every mod with the exception of the ECU. mid pipe, dp, cat back, fuel pump, yadda......
do not fall for the ecu thing, especiall if yo udo not have the money. i do recommend running with an upgraded fuel though. 10-11 pounds of boost IF CONTROLLED is fine on the stock ecu.
i have the lag everyone talks about. i get FULL boost around 4100rpm. i am getting a power fc here soon and will be looking to see what the spool up difference is whith the new unit in place....
my .02
I rounded one of those screws off on the front, because it was slightly rusted from that coolant line in front of it. Vice grips broke it loose, but that would be hard on the back. I also couldn't figure out which screws had to come out, so I took them all out. Once I got the mess out on the bench, and could figure out which 4 neeeded to be removed, I bought some allen head screws to replace those 4. Next time I have to take that crap out of there, the allens will be easy to get loose, and will remind me which screws need to be removed. Of course, you do have to get yours out first...
Good luck,
Good luck,
Like I said man use vice grips. Grip the head of the screw and turn it. Needle nose vice grips work like a charm. The back four are basicly in the same position but on the other side of the rack, facing the firewall.
daaaammmiiiiiiiiittt i think that i took off every damn screw that i could get to except the back ones, why cant i just pull this rack out, i have to change out my FPD i see it and cant get to it, the damn thing is leaking fuel and its a big mess fuel just sitting there. aaarrrrrrrrrrrrrrr if anyone is in MD or that could help ill give them gas money and a 6 pack
I just pulled off my UIM and I can see the screws... your not going to be able to see the screw heads just the threads.... It is right be one fuel line, next to the ignition coil closest to the firewall.
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