I have a 94fd with boost issues. It ran fine for the first month I had it running. Then I lost boost, ckecked engine codes I had DTC 44 which is the turbo control solenoid. I went through the trouble shooting procedure, wiring checked out, but one of the solenoids was open when checked with an Ohm meter. I replaced the bad solenoid with one I had off an extra engine. The car ran great for two months then the same thing code 44 only this time it only does it sometimes, but only when the engines warm especially when its had a good amount of idle time like 10-15 minutes. The more I drive it more often it acts up. I' ve read that the boost solenoids can sometimes short when they get warm, which is what I believe is going on. I 've gone as far as trying a different ecm with no luck. The solenoid that replaced was the smaller of the two,not the one on the rack of solenoids. Should I have replaced the other solenoid also, could it cause the other to go bad? Is this a common problem with FD's ? The solenoid I put on was used and I realize these parts have some age on them, but two solenoids in three months. I just don't want to throw brand new solenoid at it and have it short out also. The're not real fun to put on and the're not super cheap. If anyone has had a simmilar problem or has any suggestions I would really like to hear from you. The only mods on the car are cold air intake, cats are eliminated, and and there is a catback system.



Thanks
Rob

 

The solenoids you are talking about at times work under pressure/vacuum or both. High heat around the turbo exhaust and under the UIM can and will weaken the springs on the solenoids. In my opinion this is what you are experiencing. I would recommend taking the solenoids out and checking each of them using a ohm/voltage meter, a Mitty-Vac pressure port to about 14 psi..... there is a thread on this. and lastly doing the oven test. Yeah bake them for about two minutes at 175 degreed to veryfy for proper operation. Hope this helps.

As far as pricing, etc.... I bought some used solenoids for $10.00 each... if you go this route buy at least four for every one you want to replace. I ordered four and two were good. The other two were marginal to sticking.

 

You can just bypass the solinoids by using Verion 2 in the diagram below. If you get a boost controller you can set it up like this. I did this with a Manual Hallman RX boost controller. Worked great for me.

thanks,
-josh

 

No, you can't. He's talking about the Turbo Control Solenoid. That's completely different from the Wastegate and Precontrol solenoids. You're not on the same page.

killerx7 - listen to what superfastrx7 posted. He pretty much hit the nail on the head. Search for posts on how to properly test solenoids if you need more information.

-Rob

 

OOppps. Sorry. I must have mis unserstood. I thought you were talking about your wastegate a PC solenoid. My bad guys. I'm retarded.

Sorry,
-josh

 

FWIW, even the Factory NEW solenoids are not 100% functional out of the box, esp. if you test them to 14-15 psi.

:-( neil

 

Very true. Which is why everyone needs a NEW set of BETTER solenoids! lol

Did you get your set installed yet neil?

 

Not yet . . .

:-) neil

 

I gather from some of the replies that I got this seems to be an issue with these cars, no one makes a better solenoid, and there's no way to bypass it at least not with the factory management system. I really appreciate all the info and if anyone else has any ideas I would glad to hear from you.

Thanks
Rob

 

Saxyman990 does, but they are not drop-ins, and you'll have to order them individually since you missed out on the group buy, or find someone who's willing to sell theirs (not me).

:-) neil

 

My suggestion is to decide if you want to deal with the occasional hassle of the stock setup.

I like it, even though it's a clumsy system, it's the only sequential system out there. I guess I'm a glutton for punishment, or maybe I'm just proud of my proper boost pattern. :o) IME a hose job and testing your solenoids with a Mityvac can go a long way for just a couple hundred bucks. (and some of your time).

The simplified sequential setup does not improve reliability, but it does make working in the area much easier. Obviously, singles and non-sequential are much simpler and more reliable.

Dave