theorie

iTrader: (31)

Well, just got back to my apartment...with the Rx-7 following behind me on a trailer.

I'm pretty sure I have a cracked/blown apex seal. Here's the story:

31k original miles (I've only owned it for 2k miles).
Stock seq. turbos (just rebuilt them), ported wastegate
Manual boost controller set at 10lbs
Downpipe, high-flow cat, etc.
M2 Airbox/Intake
Power FC (base mod map)

I recently rebuilt my turbos and when I was putting them back on we accidentally snapped off of the studs that holds the downpipe onto the turbo exhaust manifold. Well, it seemed to be on there pretty tight with only 3 bolts and it didn't seem to be leaking so we just left it.

Two days ago the car sounded like it had an exhaust leak. I figured that the downpipe must have loosened up but car seemed to be running fine and boosting fine (10lbs every time). Well, today I started the car and let it warm up for 5 mins.

It was idling OK but it was still sounding much louder (like an exhaust leak) and kind of like farty (more than normal haha). I got on the interstate but didn't get the over 4000 rpm or past 60mph. When I came to a toll booth, the car died. I rolled it onto a parking lot right next to the toll both.

The car refused to start at first, but then after sitting for 5 minutes I tried again. It took about 6 seconds for the motor to turnover. It idled for about 15 seconds and then it died. The idle is extremely rough, lots of vibration, and very farty. I'm pretty sure I have a cracked/blown apex seal.

I had the car trailered back to my apt. complex. I guess I'll have to pull the motor and send it out for a rebuild, or maybe I'll order a rebuild kit/video and just do it myself. Either way, what a pain in the ***.

The guy who owned the car before me must have really beat the **** out of it. Only 31k oiginal miles and I've already had to rebuild the turbos & replace the clutch/flywheel...and now the motor!

So, am I right? Does it sound like I have a blown apex seal?

Sprockett

Wow, I don't know why that would cause your motor to break. I'm guessing it's something else. I'm going to go ahead and give the obligatory "Check your MAP sensor" remark...make sure the connector is pushed in all the way, and that the vacuum line is connected. There are a few other things that it could be, but check that first. Get a compression check, second, as that will tell for sure if your motor is bad.

I just noticed your title, too...kinda funny with the added "i"

theorie

iTrader: (31)

yeah i actually checked the map sensor already. it was plugged in fine on both sides...

i've been looking all over the engine bay but everything seems to be in its proper place.

the only loose connectors i have are these two: right next to the Y pipe, but i'm almost positive they plugged into the smog pump (which has been removed):



i'm pretty sure they don't have anything to do with it, because they have been unplugged for awhile.

theorie

iTrader: (31)

haha oops i totally meant to type "apex" not "apexi"

theorie

iTrader: (31)

alright so after lettting the car sit/cool down. i went out to re-check everything again.

the car stated up a little easier this time, and is idling around 800 (as set by the PFC) but it's still very rough. the car is vibrating a lot and is still making a crack-crack-crack-crack sound from around/near the turbo area. i've also noticed that the sound changes when i disengage/engage the clutch.

we recently changed my clutch/flywheel - perhaps something is loose in the bell housing and that is causing the vibration/sound?

i tried to record some videos with my phone. check it out:

vid 1:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zAAARlAKCDs

vid 2:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_KZe520tdbI

i think i may have a combination of 3 problems (?):

1) exhaust leak between the downpipe & the turbo exhaust manifold

2) power fc water temp readings are off (thats why the car died maybe)

3) something is loose in the bell housing, causing the vibration / rubbing sound

thoughs?

j n

i remember reading that the exhaust system was very important on the 3rd gen's FAQ section, something about pre cat or the down pipe. and was able to cause alot of back pressure causing extreme heat to build up, and this was the reason why FD's had such a reputation for being short lived.

supraturbo1987

iTrader: (4)

theorie,

Check the compression...that will answer a lot. Also, if I believe that is the EGR connector. You can unplug it and see if you get a code 16.

Trev

crcleofdst

The connector on the left is for the airpump. The blue one on the right isnt used, I think.... at least it isnt on my car.

93FD3S

I'm gonna rule out the blown apex seal. Your boost gauge readings seems to be pretty stable from the video you posted. When you did the clutch job did you replace the pilot and throw out bearing? Did you inspect the fork for damage? How well did you torque the flywheel? Start with the basics, do a compression test.

FD3Smaniac

iTrader: (3)

i heard a helicopter... i think

theorie

iTrader: (31)

all the bearings were replaced and i didn't see an damage to the fork. we torqued up everything to spec or as tight as we could. still, im worried something is loose in there. i'm going to trailer the car back to sarasota sometime this week so we can get it up on the lift and unbolt the tranny.

hahaha yeah thats the car making that sound....not a helicopter.

supraturbo1987

iTrader: (4)

Just checked the vids out man...seriously...I agree it is not an engine issue being blown...you have 18 vac and a VERY steady idle...

theorie

iTrader: (31)

thank god. i was so worried i lost an apex seal.

i guess something is loose in the transmission. still bad, but not as bad. i'll post more once i get it up on a lift and get the tranny off

revhardallday

iTrader: (1)

go on ur pfc and and go to settings and click on PIM VOLT and select 2. option 1 and hit next 2 times then start the car and this could fix the problem.

PeezerX

My old FC had an exhaust leak at the cat with the PFC. It got worse and then it eventually started to lose power and sound a lot like your car. Found my o2 sensor reading extremely lean causing the ecu to dump fuel. Take this into consideration..

Fsunoles06

not an apex seal, the motor is probably just fine.

Looks like an exhaust leak somewhere, possibly your Map sensor gone bad, check your PFC. Your PIM VOLT should be on normal, but you can try switching it to option 1.

This is almost the EXACT issue I am having right now except your car will idle correctly. Check out your injectors also. It almost sounds like your car is running on one rotor. On your pfc, adjust the lag of each primary injector while the car is idling and make sure the car responds by leaning out and stalling.

I am replacing my pfc, primary injectors, and map sensor. Heck it could be your turbos, never heard good things about rebuilt stock twins. Good luck

Fsunoles06

PFC does not respond to the o2 sensor.

theorie

iTrader: (31)

god damn, every day the car has different symptoms.

this morning walked out to the car to try setting the PIM VOLT to option 1. i did this and then started the car.

the rpms went up to about 1800 then immediately settled around 650rpm. however, today, cold starting, the car has a very rough idle. the rpms are bouncing and the whole car is vibrating. lots of vibration and it definitely sounds like the car is running on only 1 rotor. also, almost immediately the car started smoking from under the hood (probably from the exhaust leak) and out the tail pipe. the car has never smoked on start up in the past. now it does sound like a bad apex seal! i shut the car off when it was obvious that the motor didn't like to run.

what the hell is going on?

theorie

iTrader: (31)

so any suggestions? should i just pull the motor and send it for a rebuild?

i would love to rebuild it myself but i would definitely need one of those "rotary rebuild" dvd's haha

theorie

iTrader: (31)

another vid:

http://youtube.com/watch?v=lJT9EtypyEM

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

compression check.

http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/3r...ion_check.html

http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/3r..._symptoms.html

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

After watching video 2, I think you may have a spun bearing. Rotaries NEVER knock unless you spin a bearing. Anytime you hear a noise like "rod knock" in the 2500-3500rpm range it is usually a bearing.

Of course, the damn exhaust is so loud you can't make heads or tails of what is what.

Regardless the car is sick and I think it needs to come apart. You could try removing the accessory belts and start it up for 30-90 seconds to see if the noise dissipates, just to rule out an accessory making the noise.

wstrohm

How long would you expect it to run with zero oil pressure?

theorie

iTrader: (31)

the gauge isnt working. it hasn't worked since i got the car. probably just need to clean off the sender unit.