So Frustrated that i want to Hit SOMETHIGN HARD
06-14-05, 08:39 PM
#26
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Originally Posted by Lawyer
I dont see how doing a compression test on a rotary is tricky....
But to the question at hand.
If it was the NE sensor, I believe you would have no spark at all.
The only real way to test it is with a Scope. Right now my NE sensor has no signal and im not getting any spark. But my G sensor is fine.
The G sensor reads front rotor position for fuel and ignition timing. You did say your front rotor wasnt sparking, so give that a shot. Also see if your wiring is good. Triple check that. See if you have a good ground at the connector and such too.
Hope I helped a bit.
But to the question at hand.
If it was the NE sensor, I believe you would have no spark at all.
The only real way to test it is with a Scope. Right now my NE sensor has no signal and im not getting any spark. But my G sensor is fine.
The G sensor reads front rotor position for fuel and ignition timing. You did say your front rotor wasnt sparking, so give that a shot. Also see if your wiring is good. Triple check that. See if you have a good ground at the connector and such too.
Hope I helped a bit.
just hooking a compression tester up and cranking the engine will show only the highest of the 3 rotor faces compression.
06-14-05, 09:30 PM
#27
On the compression, I have a Compression tester that i have modid for rotarys, (pulled the valve out of it)
I have had MANY MANY Rotarys, but this is my frist FD
The Motor is Fine, and that is not the problem..
I am trying to get this Code to go away.
On the Spark, I am Getting spark on T1 T2 and L so that is why i am confusied, If i am getting a #2 code then i should not get any spark correct, but i am.
Another thing, I cleared the Code then put power back, didnt even turn the motor over and check for the code ( RIGHT AFTER I CLEARD IT) and the code is still there. I didnt ever turn the motor over. So how can it no there is something wrong when the motor hasnt even turned over.
I have had MANY MANY Rotarys, but this is my frist FD
The Motor is Fine, and that is not the problem..
I am trying to get this Code to go away.
On the Spark, I am Getting spark on T1 T2 and L so that is why i am confusied, If i am getting a #2 code then i should not get any spark correct, but i am.
Another thing, I cleared the Code then put power back, didnt even turn the motor over and check for the code ( RIGHT AFTER I CLEARD IT) and the code is still there. I didnt ever turn the motor over. So how can it no there is something wrong when the motor hasnt even turned over.
06-14-05, 09:53 PM
#28
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[QUOTE=Another thing, I cleared the Code then put power back, didnt even turn the motor over and check for the code ( RIGHT AFTER I CLEARD IT) and the code is still there. I didnt ever turn the motor over. So how can it no there is something wrong when the motor hasnt even turned over.[/QUOTE]
This suggest that either the sensor or wiring is indeed faulty. The ECU must check these circuits [and probably most others, too] the moment you turn the key to the on position.
This suggest that either the sensor or wiring is indeed faulty. The ECU must check these circuits [and probably most others, too] the moment you turn the key to the on position.
06-14-05, 10:06 PM
#29
Do you think i should run a new set of wires to the CAS, I have ohm the CAS itself and it checks out perfect, so i think the next step is that i am going to run a new wire from the computer to the CAS, It is still funny that i have spark and i have a Code that should include no sprak.
06-15-05, 01:13 AM
#30
Got somthing funny, i pulled both the connectors off the Crank angle sensors, then cleared the codes from the computer, then turn the key on, then off and jumped the wire to pull codes and guess what there was only a #2 code, there should have been a #3 code also because i had the G CAS unpluged also.
This has be wondering what is going on. What happen to a good old Distributer CAS like the FC has
This has be wondering what is going on. What happen to a good old Distributer CAS like the FC has
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