I went to go check out a car today for myself, because I have been searching for awhile. Found an RX-7 about twenty minutes from me. Everything seemed good....everything was tight, no knocks or shaking, no smoke, no weary sounds. Here's the specs:

1993 Mazda RX-7 Twin Turbo R1
Body has 70k miles, engine has 30k
Red/Black

Mods:

Apex N1 exhaust, K&N intake, boost gauge, air/fuel pressure gauge, Tokico gas shocks, and Racing Hart C2 rims (18")....and some misc carbon fiber **** inside the car (not a mod..but oh well, looked nice)

Car also comes with the stock wheels.

Guy was asking 17k, and I bargained him to $15k....now the question, should I do it???

 

Sounds like a decent price. Take the VIN to a dealership and see if the recalls were done. Get a compression check done as well.

 

if you can get it for 15, do it. i'd be asking more if i was him, but whatever.

 

Get a CarFax to check on the history of the car.

Get a compression test.

Test drive to check for 10 - 8 - 10 boost and running problems.

Talk to the owner to discuss the mods, how the car has been running, and see if you can detect the owner is hiding anything from you.

If all checks out, could be an okay price.

 

he was asking 17, but i told him "how about 15k cash?" and since his last few people jerked him around with bank loans and such, i think he just was happy to see someone with finances ready.

i just called the guy up right now, and he said that the place who put on his upgrades are specialists in rotary engines. he said he doesnt want to sell me a car that he isn't for sure of, so he will get a compression test done this week and let me know of the results. he seems like a pretty honest guy to me, so i guess now i just gotta wait till the numbers come back.

 

Alright...I'll get the VIN when I talk to him tomorrow for the carfax. Compression is getting done this week. I am not sure what 10-8-10 boost is (sorry, i am new at this) however i test drove it and it seemed to be strong and smooth in all aspects. he didnt seem to be hiding anything either, since he went around pointing out pretty much every little blemish or problem he has ever had.

 

Don't think he is honest. I just bought a car 3 weeks ago and the owner swore on its reliability. 3 days after I bought it, the colant seal blew. The compression was fine but the coolant seal was pretty much gone. Take it to a mechanic before you buy it!!!

Now I have to go to court

 

see if the guy has a receipt or some kind of documentation on the motor rebuild. its too easy to say it was rebuilt 30k miles ago. sounds good though.

 

Boost problems are very common with these cars. The simple 10 - 8 - 10 boost test involves accelerating to third gear, once in third give it wide open throttle while watching the boost gauge. You should see a boost reading starting at 10 psi (primary turbo boost) followed by a momentary drop to 8 psi boost (transition) and finally 10 psi (primary plus secondary turbos) to red line.

You also mentioned that the car is worked on by a local rotary mechanic. Go interview the mechanic that works on this car and find out what he knows.

Also, after the car has been sitting in one place for a while check under it for evidence of any leaks.

Also read-up on the following advice on "How to Buy a Used RX7":

http://www.rx7turboturbo.com/robrobinette/buyaused.htm

 

Yeah, take it to a rotary specialist. If things check out, $15k sounds like a good deal with those rims and and suspension set up.

 

the guy just called me and told me that compression was 115psi.....is this good?? he also told me that the turbo's were in great shape and pumped out 16psi. this is what i think i heard, as he had bad reception. he does have the paperwork for it though. whatta you think?

 

16psi is too high... they should never be worked to that level without the proper mods. ie, ecu. I really hope he didnt pump it to 16 on his setup. maybe you heard him wrong, if not i would be worried.

 

Sounds like you need to do more homework since I believe you mentioned that you were unfamiliar with the correct boost pattern. Don't rush into anything. Lots of people selling RX-7s and with $15K in cash you have LOTS of options.

My recommendation would be to go drive at least 2 more RX-7s out there. A "compromised" RX-7 (not implying that it is) may still seem extremely fast to someone who has never been in an RX-7.

Ramon

 

I just called him back to make sure of everything that i've heard was correct...it is infact 115 on both rotors. the guy said the mechanic said his turbos have max boost of 16psi, but is currently on 12psi.

 

Yea....I am currently reading up ALOT to become more familiar with everything. Only thing is, this was the only RX-7 I have found close to me with under 100k miles on the clock, and it's hard to find more to test drive.

 

Even if the car has 100K miles on it drive it. You are just trying to make comparisons. Also, I am sure there are RX-7s for sale in the DC area. Yes, you will have to drive a bit, but it will give you additional peace of mind.

Also, WHO is the local mechanic? Ito at JR Rotary in Paterson is the only NJ mechanic that I have heard of that specializes in RX-7s. He seems to be a reputable and all around nice guy. Have him look over the car. If you are near the PA border then schedule time (but he is always swamped) with Dave at KDR in Nazareth, PA.

R

 

Have Ito check it. he is the man!

 

If this is an accurate representation of what you have been told by the seller and/or his mechanic, then you should definitely walk away from this deal.

To say that "a rotor engine has a compression of 115 on each rotor" is a gross misrepresentation. I believe that an honest and competent rotary owner/mechanic would have explained this to you. The correct way to represent the compression of a rotary engine is to measure and state the compression of each lobe on each rotor. The FD has two rotors, each with three lobes. Therefore the compression should be stated such as follows:

Front Rotor 115, 115, 115
Rear Rotor 112, 117, 119

To say that the turbos have a maximum boost of 16psi but are currently "on 12 psi" raises many questions. How do they know the "maximum boost" of these turbos? Did they drive the car at maximum boost to measure it? This car as described should have never been able to achieve 16psi. I certainly wouldn't purchase this FD if it has somehow reached 16psi. What does it mean to say it has a maximum boost of 16psi and the current boost "on 12psi"? There has to be some explanation. Are there electronic or manual boost controllers? Is it up to the driver to limit the boost by how far down he pushes the gas pedal?

I just find the explanations you have been given as highly suspicious!

My final words of advice. If you are truely interested in investing $15K or more in an FD then you should be willing to consider the entire USA as your marketplace and be willing to travel whatever distance is necessary to find an acceptable FD. If you are limiting yourself to finding an FD within 100 miles of where you live, then you better be willing to live with a problem FD.

 

Yeah but even a mechanic wouldn't be able to tell you that the seal was about to go,without tearing the engine appart... Not that I don't belive you have a case here.. you do it should come off the purchase price... but compression is measurable... seal either works or is gone...

 

does anyone have ito's number or webpage so i could get in contact with him??? i am going to ask the seller if i could take it to a mechanic myself first and if all checks out...im gonna buy the car.

 

There are alot of FDs in NJ. Here's a sample. Try finding a nice one in New Mexico!

Take Jonesboro's advice. Take your time, learn more about the cars, and don't restrict yourself to a local car. Many people here drove thousands of miles to find a nice car.

Good luck

 

I would take the advice to check out more cars. I bought one last year in October, had basically the same setup as yours (same mileage, mods, 12k boost) and the owner seemed very dependable. BUT, after a month I had turbo problems that were not fixed until my third "knowledgeable" mechanic. My advice would be to find your mechanic first, then test the car, that way you will know that your decision is backed by expertise and experience with buying a good FD example.

I bought mine for 16.5k a year ago, so the price seems reasonable if the car is in good condition.

 

It's where I found mine.

 

i went to JR's performance in paterson and had Ito run a few tests. He said compression on the rear rotor was 122psi and compression on the front was 125. He told me everything seemed to be pretty solid, and for the price I am gonna get it for he said to go for it. So I put a deposit down on the car and I'm gonna pick it up in a week and a half!!!