She finally gave out ...
10-04-04, 07:06 PM
#26
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Well, went to the shop today ... First rotor 99psi on a piston tester ... bounced above 95 all the time. Good sign, hopes going up. Rear rotor, barely bounced above 0. Hopes dropped. Did some calling today, and put in an application for a loan. Looks like price of an engine build with new housings (highly recommended) will be $4700 to $4800 before core. Or $3400 to $3800 with core. $700 for turbo rebuild. Then new clutch, resurface flywheel, blah blah blah. Anyhow, I'm trying to get $6500 to be sure to complete everything while using at least good quality parts. I was going to try to be cheap, but decided instead that, while its out, I might as well do it right. That way, hopefully I won't have to do it again for some time. Thanks for all the advice, and I will keep everybody posted on the teardown and reinstall.
10-04-04, 08:30 PM
#27
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thanx for the info.
As for the reman business.
Malloy mazda sells them for $1990 plus the cost of the core.
Unless you can get the car to them.
Do the work yourself. and youll save lots of money.
you should probably end up spending about 3000 grand total with the turbos being rebuilt
As for the reman business.
Malloy mazda sells them for $1990 plus the cost of the core.
Unless you can get the car to them.
Do the work yourself. and youll save lots of money.
you should probably end up spending about 3000 grand total with the turbos being rebuilt
10-08-04, 05:37 PM
#28
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Got my loan today. Money should be posting tonight, order will go out tomorrow or monday depending. Right now I'm trying to decide ....
Pettit Racing:
New Housings
Street Port
3mm apex seals
OR
KD Rotary (~$150 less):
New housings
street port
hardened 2mm apex seals (aparently as strong as the 3mm, but with less blowby)
Any opinions?
Pettit Racing:
New Housings
Street Port
3mm apex seals
OR
KD Rotary (~$150 less):
New housings
street port
hardened 2mm apex seals (aparently as strong as the 3mm, but with less blowby)
Any opinions?
10-08-04, 06:09 PM
#30
I highly recommend my builder..
So far one of the best builder I have ever met! He build his own lap table and has over 25 years for building rotary engines and racing experience.
People from Panama, Perto Rico, are shipping engines to him.
He's currently booked until Nov.. If you are interested, let me know.. He only build 1-2 engines per month.
Also, Here is a video of my engine being cranked and broken in.. He'll do this for every engine before shipping them out.. After engine is semi broken in, compression test is performed.
http://homepage.mac.com/newengine/iMovieTheater1.html
So far one of the best builder I have ever met! He build his own lap table and has over 25 years for building rotary engines and racing experience.
People from Panama, Perto Rico, are shipping engines to him.
He's currently booked until Nov.. If you are interested, let me know.. He only build 1-2 engines per month.
Also, Here is a video of my engine being cranked and broken in.. He'll do this for every engine before shipping them out.. After engine is semi broken in, compression test is performed.
http://homepage.mac.com/newengine/iMovieTheater1.html
10-08-04, 06:52 PM
#32
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From what I've read, and the people I've actually talked to, remans are a risk. They are within 'spec', but they are still worn, and might not last as long. Whereas, a fully rebuilt engine with new housings will probably last a lot long if treated right. I'd rather spend the $3-4 once, than spend $2 two or three times.
As for performance, I'll be going for a top of 14psi, keeping stock turbos. Streetporting, and I'm still deciding if I want/need 3mm seals.
Rotarressurection, I considered you, but what I'd like to do for time reasons is have the price of the engine with new housings charged, then ship back my core and get a refund. I was very attracted by your prices and the obvious knowledge and experience you have. Time is of the factor for me though, being in the military, I might need to be able to move my car in a month or two, or shorter, so I can't have this be a long process. I'm not going to rush, but I am going to go as fast as possible while keeping quality in mind.
Herblenny, same with your builder. He seems to also know what he is doing. But I can't wait.
As for performance, I'll be going for a top of 14psi, keeping stock turbos. Streetporting, and I'm still deciding if I want/need 3mm seals.
Rotarressurection, I considered you, but what I'd like to do for time reasons is have the price of the engine with new housings charged, then ship back my core and get a refund. I was very attracted by your prices and the obvious knowledge and experience you have. Time is of the factor for me though, being in the military, I might need to be able to move my car in a month or two, or shorter, so I can't have this be a long process. I'm not going to rush, but I am going to go as fast as possible while keeping quality in mind.
Herblenny, same with your builder. He seems to also know what he is doing. But I can't wait.
10-08-04, 07:57 PM
#33
Originally Posted by RotaryResurrection
Ive got an engine testbed too, I run all engines that I do not personally install on it. Mine is EFI based, however, that one appears to be carby. Because of this I can also flow check/test fuel injectors, though I cant clean them.
Really?? hmm.. So, you acturally run it with EFI base?? I would like to see some videos of that..
10-08-04, 07:59 PM
#34
Originally Posted by Marc01
Herblenny, same with your builder. He seems to also know what he is doing. But I can't wait.
When someone acturally researches about lap tables and acturally make it themselves and even let me spec the plates they lap to show how well it works, thats the kind of person I would perfer. Only trying to help..
10-08-04, 10:10 PM
#35
Yes, it is a simulated stock EFI system from a partscar. It runs on a stock fuel pump/tank, stock primary rail with injectors (only 2 since 4 would be unnecessary for no-load), stock ecu and wiring harness, electric fan and radiator, etc. I can either run a longblock or a shortblock depending on the situation. IT takes roughly 30 minutes to set an engine up to run, but it can run for hours on end if need be. It's essentially a car on a stand. I even have a custom exhaust made of a stock NA manifold, flexpipe and 2 quiet mufflers.
These pics are of the first version that I built when i was in the old shop building, which had a large (3/4 ton) metal bench that i used for the testbed. When I moved I couldnt transport the bench, so I recently reconstructed a wooden frame and did some simplification and rewiring, and added all aftermarket mechanical gauges so that results are never in question and switches for the main power, ignition, fuelpump and electric fan . It's also about half the size of this one. The engine being run here was an old nonturbo stocker that was known to work, which I used when I first started the bench...one less point to troubleshoot if it didnt work.
Here are pics:
These pics are of the first version that I built when i was in the old shop building, which had a large (3/4 ton) metal bench that i used for the testbed. When I moved I couldnt transport the bench, so I recently reconstructed a wooden frame and did some simplification and rewiring, and added all aftermarket mechanical gauges so that results are never in question and switches for the main power, ignition, fuelpump and electric fan . It's also about half the size of this one. The engine being run here was an old nonturbo stocker that was known to work, which I used when I first started the bench...one less point to troubleshoot if it didnt work.
Here are pics:
10-08-04, 10:14 PM
#36
an open header/manifold shot at light throttle...
Here's a shot with no exhaust manifold, looking straight into the engine as combustion occurs at idle.
Shots are higher rpm's...now you know why your turbos spool...
Video of it running in a few minutes...
Here's a shot with no exhaust manifold, looking straight into the engine as combustion occurs at idle.
Shots are higher rpm's...now you know why your turbos spool...
Video of it running in a few minutes...
Have you gone deaf yet? 
10-09-04, 11:04 AM
#39
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I got to see this first hand. When I was compression testing,I pulled the gas relay, but forgot about the ignition. Got a nice burn =). Pretty flames though.
Rx7store are you open on saturdays?
Rx7store are you open on saturdays?
10-10-04, 10:36 AM
#40
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Ok, so early next week I'm ordering my engine. I've found a set of NEW turbos with only 2k miles on them. I'm using an educated estimate of $4700, turbos are going for around 1k. Which leaves me with ~$900. Before I go off and buy fun stuff, I thought I'd ask... What gaskets/lines/etc do I need to buy to install the new shortblock/turbos I'll be getting? I've got a full shop to work in. I've got the install video, but I don't have a vcr :-(. I'll be working on getting that VCR, but I was hopping some of the more experienced guys out there could give me some advice?
10-13-04, 06:38 PM
#42
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Ok, engine and turbos are on their way. Blown engine starts coming out tomorrow. I need ya'lls help now. What gaskets/lines/etc do I need to get to do the reinstall? And anything else I should replace/mess with while its that open. I've been reading about the turbo simplification mod, and that looks promising. The only real downfall was it didn't idle right when cold?
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