Serious Problem After Race
08-09-10, 11:45 AM
#1
Serious Problem After Race
Went up to drag races, in a failed attempt to spank brother-in-law in his FC, i did some damage. I though i had boost under control using power FC with only base map. But it was fairly cool out and when i went hard down the track I boosted over 15 pounds and over reved to 8300 in third gear. As soon as I turned to come back car will not boost over .5 and boost gauge needle is seriously shaky, engine shakes with very rough idle, acceleration is poor like timing is out. I hear a pinging sound and heat light flashes when trying to boost. On the up side, did not see any smoke nor does car smoke now. Not losing any oil. No oil in coolant and no coolant in oil. It starts fine, can drive at any RPM as long as I push it up very easy. Feels like limp mode so i have tried to reset five times but still same. Heat light can indicate knock sensor on JDM cars but reading on PFC knock does not go over 30-40.
Other info:
Original Engine with 117000 km
Stock Twins Sequential
HKS intake
Power FC base map
91 octane fuel with octane boost
Down Pipe mid pipe 3" cat back
stock intercooler
stock fuel system
Any thoughts or help would be greatly appreciated.
Other info:
Original Engine with 117000 km
Stock Twins Sequential
HKS intake
Power FC base map
91 octane fuel with octane boost
Down Pipe mid pipe 3" cat back
stock intercooler
stock fuel system
Any thoughts or help would be greatly appreciated.
08-09-10, 12:06 PM
#4
Stock twins? 117km on the stock motor.....so... 72700 miles.. Not excessively high..but That just sounds like a classic boost spike over-rev. My guess after reading the symptoms would be a blown apex seal in one of the housings.. with prob some serious housing damage. But when was the last time you changed your plugs and what plugs are you running?
What to do?..
pull the plugs and check your compression
What to do?..
pull the plugs and check your compression
08-09-10, 12:26 PM
#5
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Motor is gone. You most likely did not have enough fuel and/or octane to support the boost. I don't trust octane boosters, either (unless you're mixing race gas). 93 is MINIMUM octane rating for these engines. Stock IC is also worthless above 12 psi.
Last edited by no_more_rice; 08-09-10 at 12:29 PM.
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08-09-10, 12:52 PM
#8
Post #4 FTW. 
When that happened to me (same EXACT symptoms) I had split 2 apex seals out of the rear housing. 
Do a compression test, and/or pull your fuel pump relay and crank the motor with the front 2 plugs out. Listen for the even pulsing/compression in that housing. You should hear nice, even compression strokes.
Then, replace the front 2 plugs and repeat the procedure for the rear housing...My guess is that you will hear uneven pulsing in one of your rotor housings, which indicates a compression (blown apex seal) problem. Good luck man!
When that happened to me (same EXACT symptoms) I had split 2 apex seals out of the rear housing. Do a compression test, and/or pull your fuel pump relay and crank the motor with the front 2 plugs out. Listen for the even pulsing/compression in that housing. You should hear nice, even compression strokes. Then, replace the front 2 plugs and repeat the procedure for the rear housing...My guess is that you will hear uneven pulsing in one of your rotor housings, which indicates a compression (blown apex seal) problem.
Good luck man!
08-09-10, 01:11 PM
#9
Thanks alot guys i will check compression tonight. plugs were new 3k ago. i was thinking engine too but its running strong and not blowing any smoke, just wont boost properly. Is it possible to blow out the map sensor?
Last edited by MustangEater; 08-09-10 at 01:12 PM. Reason: spelling
08-09-10, 01:45 PM
#13
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Even with a chipped seal, the engine can still produce decent power at higher rpm, it just won't idle, and sounds sick (i.e. as in, "not good"). It's heartbreaking, and most of us have been there. The temptation is to keep cranking that boost up and push it a little bit more every time, but sooner or later it bites you. Fortunately, there are several good engine builders available who can be contacted through this forum, just be sure you upgrade everything next time so you can handle 15 psi.
08-09-10, 02:01 PM
#14
Neither are tuned for 'over 15psi' to the best of my knowledge. I would not go over 13psi on the base mod map and I would not run the base map at all because it has ignition timing that can blow engines.
08-09-10, 02:24 PM
#17
Installing a stand a lone ecu can be one of the best or worst decisions you ever make. It all depends if you feel like spending the time and effort to get it tuned correctly.
08-09-10, 02:27 PM
#18
Even with a chipped seal, the engine can still produce decent power at higher rpm, it just won't idle, and sounds sick (i.e. as in, "not good"). It's heartbreaking, and most of us have been there. The temptation is to keep cranking that boost up and push it a little bit more every time, but sooner or later it bites you. Fortunately, there are several good engine builders available who can be contacted through this forum, just be sure you upgrade everything next time so you can handle 15 psi.
On a side note I had a customer daily drive his fd for almost 2 months with 1 chipped apex seals until I had time to fit him in.
Damn!!!
08-09-10, 10:44 PM
#20
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Drag racing a beautiful car like an FD is like taking a sweet handling sport bike - designed for the road course or mountain roads - and throwing an extended swingarm and drag slicks on it. Why? Get a 69 Camaro with a big block and TH400 trans if you need to get that out of your system. I'll never understand the drag racing crowd the same way I don't understand the NASCAR crowd, both became mindless to me past the age of about 19. Get away from the noise and the beer swigging rednecks and get in touch with a winding road. Free your soul...
08-10-10, 07:46 AM
#22
Drag racing a beautiful car like an FD is like taking a sweet handling sport bike - designed for the road course or mountain roads - and throwing an extended swingarm and drag slicks on it. Why? Get a 69 Camaro with a big block and TH400 trans if you need to get that out of your system. I'll never understand the drag racing crowd the same way I don't understand the NASCAR crowd, both became mindless to me past the age of about 19. Get away from the noise and the beer swigging rednecks and get in touch with a winding road. Free your soul...
08-10-10, 08:26 AM
#23
I'd have to agree with djseven. I, as well, drag race AND autocross my FD. There's nothing "redneck" or juvenile about it. If you feel that way then you are hanging around the wrong group of drag racers, and/or have had some bad experiences in the past. Simple as that.
08-10-10, 10:16 AM
#24
Yes, the base map is really safe for 10 psi or less. Push it beyone that with stock apex seals or any of the other "breakable" seals(they are all breakable but hopefully you get what I am referring to) and it doesnt take long to end up with a blown engine.
Installing a stand a lone ecu can be one of the best or worst decisions you ever make. It all depends if you feel like spending the time and effort to get it tuned correctly.
Installing a stand a lone ecu can be one of the best or worst decisions you ever make. It all depends if you feel like spending the time and effort to get it tuned correctly.
08-10-10, 10:17 AM
#25
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Drag racing a beautiful car like an FD is like taking a sweet handling sport bike - designed for the road course or mountain roads - and throwing an extended swingarm and drag slicks on it. Why? Get a 69 Camaro with a big block and TH400 trans if you need to get that out of your system. I'll never understand the drag racing crowd the same way I don't understand the NASCAR crowd, both became mindless to me past the age of about 19. Get away from the noise and the beer swigging rednecks and get in touch with a winding road. Free your soul...
