Turbo_F1

Yesterday while on the freeway I was doing about 75 when there was a thud and the car started to shake. Well then I took it out of gear and let it coast when it shut off. Pulled over and tryed to turn it on again, but now luck. So my friend and I turned it on with the push and pop clutch deal and it rpm sluggishly went through 1 to 2 thousand then when it was at 3 there wasn't any shuttering and it would not stay on unless i gave it constant gas. Boost guage was irratically around zero when driving. So a hose poped off, right. Now my question is if its safe to drive it about 30 miles to the shop.

Turbo_F1

Thanks for the help Ill be awhile since it at a friends house. So if i follow the line it should reach the area where it might have disconnected? Is there any other spots i should look, oh its non seq. by the way.

cruser

Pray for the map sensor to be the problem. To me it sounds like it may be a little worse than just a vaccuum hose. Will the car idle on its own? Good luck.

Turbo_F1

No it won't...

black99

Exactly. Does any smoke come out of the exhaust under acceleration or at idle? If so what color.


If you had a boost leak I would think it would idle on it's own, mine always did when I had boost leaks, but pray it's just a big vacum leak or the map sensor hose popped off.

Turbo_F1

Yeah thre was smoke. It was at night but it looked white or gryish in the cars headlights...What is it I am praying it is not. I was told that the cat was glowing red. I think that what he said.

Turbo_F1

What my Mech. told me a couple weeks ago when I had the non-seq done on my car.

sounds like a possible leaking injector or bad injector...or low compression. the car 'loads' up and only pulls 9-10" of vacuum! when it idles below 900 rpms but above that it runs fine, you could have a bad
o-ring that is leaking gas into one of the chambers which sould explain why it is running rough. the car is driveable and no further damage will occur if you can take car of it within a few weeks.

What would the prices on these be if I had them preformed? Estimate. I would ask my mech., but he is out of town.

cruser

To me it sounds like your engine may have popped. This is almost exactly what happened with my car when the engine let go.

I have known of a couple of cars that are still driveable in the higher rpm bands when an apex seal has just chipped or not completely failed. The problem with driving it before you figure out the true problem would be if it was an apex issue, when the seal did finally fail it could fly through your turbos and roach those also.

Good luck, I hope my guess is completely wrong.

Bucrx7

Sorry to say but it sounds like you popped your motor. The boost gauge acting irratically is one of the sign of a pop motor.

Talek

Ouch, definately sounds like your motor's gone to rotor-heaven.. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but a rebuild would run you around 2k(?) a new engine would be about 3k w/out labor... I think.

Turbo_F1

So what now.....do I have the seals changed or does that me new motor....

Turbo_F1

Another thing what were some of the causes of it.

cruser

Don't jump to conclusions yet. See what the mechanic has to say and have a compression check done.

If it is blown get it rebuilt, with a streetport

Bucrx7

If it's blown and you are low in cash then you can get a reman engine for $2k or less and have a mechanic install it.

Turbo_F1

Thanks Cruser and the others, you guys have been a tremendous help. I will keep you guys informed about my gals condition.

zooq

can it be the boost sensor? that thing happened to me once and it was because the hose poped off the sensor.

Tom93R1

iTrader: (2)

Definately not boost leak. You can pull the entire intake system off up to the manifold and it will run great, just weak from no boost.

the_saint

My motor acted like that when it had I toasted an apex seal. However, I could still make boost normally. I didn't notice a drop in power at all, ie still smoke the tires through second. But the compression test on the rear rotor showed an apex seal had packed it in.

When the motor was torn down, there was about a 1/8 inch piece of seal embedded in the rotor, that had completely scored the housing.

Anyways,that is in the past.

It is odd that it happened while cruising

Get a compression check and figure it out.

thesaint

Turbo_F1

So say that it did pop...would that be a rebuild or a new motor. A rebuild is about $800, right. You think it better to go 3mm also.

cruser

Are you going to do the rebuild yourself?? If not its a little closer to 2-3k for the rebuild. Then extra to go 3mm. People's opinions vary on the 3mm issue. Search off of 3mm and you will dig up the debates. Good luck.

Toadman

"THUD!" ... Not good.... not good at all.

black99

Yeah even if rebuilding it yourself it will cost you more than $800.00. I wish it was that cheap. I think I may have grenaded my motor yesterday myself. I have the same problem as you, if you're not on the throttle it dies, no smoke only the normal greyish dark colored smoke when I floor it. And I still can get boost. I did mine in racing a modded 300zx, smoked him, but after I turned off onto a side road I left off of the throttle and the car idled low, then died and wouldn't start back up. Started it up today, it idled fine at 750 rpm really rough sounding. Then I drove it and it idled low and wanted to stall out within 2 minutes of driving.