When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hey everyone I'm trying to get my fd qualified for the road atlanta track on a budget. When it comes to the bar for a 4 or 5 point harness does anyone know the length in inches. I have also seen that there is a modified rear shock tower bar replacement that had the mounting points. Could I not just modify the OEM shock tower brace with a few bolts to mount seat belt harnesses?
The stock mounting brackets, and for that matter the entire stock rear brace, was designed only for tension/compression and really flimsy for the (potential) lateral forces of a harness. Budget I understand, but i doubt it would pass a tech inspection from Ray Charles.
I ran an M2 harness bar from WAY back in the day for Autocross. It’s a bit heavy but beefy and has mounting points.
Not sure who else made them but they used to come up for sale occasionally in the Parts For Sale. Maybe post up a WTB.
However, depending on how tight the scrutineering will be, strut bars are often not approved placement for harness tiedown (from my understanding....I could certainly be wrong). You would need a dedicated harness bar. I believe this is the reason the 'weld-in' version of the Raceshop bar had a dedicated harness bar.
The stock mounting brackets, and for that matter the entire stock rear brace, was designed only for tension/compression and really flimsy for the (potential) lateral forces of a harness. Budget I understand, but i doubt it would pass a tech inspection from Ray Charles.
I ran an M2 harness bar from WAY back in the day for Autocross. It’s a bit heavy but beefy and has mounting points.
Not sure who else made them but they used to come up for sale occasionally in the Parts For Sale. Maybe post up a WTB.
Dang I appreciate it ive been looking for an m2 or jp3 but they arent currently making them ill look in the parts chat 👍
We're pretty *****-nilly about track safety here in Japan...
The bar itself is probably plenty strong, but it relies on the factor sheet metal tower bar mounts, which aren't designed to take force in that direction.
You might get away with it if you still have the covers and they don't make you pop them off.
If you don't have a full interior in the back of the car, you have more options. For example, you might be able to run a four-point street/tuning belt (attached to bolt holes for the rear seats) instead of race belts.
Or you could just put eye-bolts through the chassis (if they will let you run the belts down at an angle).
But you should really ask the scrutineers ahead of time what they will and won't except.
Don't get four-point belts without anti-submarining technology. If you're going to get a five-point, you might as well get six-point (which is somewhat less likely to destroy your family jewels).
Due to the cramped nature of the cockpit, I recommend a pull-down belt instead of a pull-up belt.
We're pretty *****-nilly about track safety here in Japan...
The bar itself is probably plenty strong, but it relies on the factor sheet metal tower bar mounts, which aren't designed to take force in that direction.
You might get away with it if you still have the covers and they don't make you pop them off.
If you don't have a full interior in the back of the car, you have more options. For example, you might be able to run a four-point street/tuning belt (attached to bolt holes for the rear seats) instead of race belts.
Or you could just put eye-bolts through the chassis (if they will let you run the belts down at an angle).
But you should really ask the scrutineers ahead of time what they will and won't except.
Don't get four-point belts without anti-submarining technology. If you're going to get a five-point, you might as well get six-point (which is somewhat less likely to destroy your family jewels).
Due to the cramped nature of the cockpit, I recommend a pull-down belt instead of a pull-up belt.
Solid advice thankyou for your effort, I didn't even think a 5 point would be necessary let alone a 6 point , but if I am going that route I might as well just say screw the budget and go for a half roll cage
Solid advice thankyou for your effort, I didn't even think a 5 point would be necessary let alone a 6 point , but if I am going that route I might as well just say screw the budget and go for a half roll cage
Other than being safer, the biggest benefit of having an anti-sub strap is that you can tighten the shoulder belts more without pulling the buckle up.
Four-point street belts are better than stock three-point belts, but don’t hold you as well as proper race harnesses.
A roll bar (which is what I think you mean by half-cage) is a good idea, but be 100% sure whatever you buy is acceptable to whatever sanctioning body you are dealing with.
I don’t recommend a roll cage for a street car, as it’s incredibly inconvenient and can be dangerous without proper padding when not wearing a helmet. You might not notice it, but car interiors are actually padded…
