does anyone have any suggestions on where to put the anchors? Cheers.

 

Racing harness?

If so, just mount it where the OEM seatbelt is bolted to the chassis.

 

For the lap belt, use the stock mounting points. Use the clipon style ends with the eyebolts.

For the sub belt (assuming a single sub) go through the floor (watch for brake and fuel lines) under the seat. Use large strong washers, and ideally weld them in.

For the shoulder, I highly recommend the cross bar on a roll bar. There are various discussions on this board and various other sites, but essentially you want secure mounting points that allow the belts to come down over your shoulders and not put downward pressure on your shoulders / back. I used to have a harness bar that mounted to the stock shoulder harness points that worked well.

 

^^ What he said. For the shoulder harnesses, just go to a welding shop and tell them to bend some tube into a hoop, tig it in, tig a harness bar into the loop, then have them put in 2 braces from the top of the hoop to the back of the cargo area.

It's a pretty easy job actually. Just make sure the hoop isn't so close to the seat that you could hit your head on it and that the harness bar is either level or just a little bit above where your shoulder belt holes are in your seat.

 

What about these?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MAZDA...47220649QQrdZ1

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MAZDA...spagenameZWDVW

 

Are they legal for racing, beware if you want to compete, they need an FIA rating on them

 

I'm pretty sure They're not legal for racing, but for street daily driving they should be just fine. Can't be any less safer than the stock seatbelts

 

If you ever track the car that has a tech inspection, make sure they meet the current approved specs. Not sure off the top of my head but I think the standard is SPI. Belts also have a manufacturing date and must be current or you will be sent home.

You might want to check the race tech section, it may be FIA instead of SPI. One of the SCCA or Spec7 guys will probably chime in and give the correct designation. I would be really leary of any belt system that does not meet these specs. A bad set of belts will do more harm than good in case of an accident. What is the life of you and a passenger worth?

 

Good point! I guess I'll buy The 5-point Simson for me, and The ebay ones for my girlfriend

 

I don't reccomend using a harness on the street unless it's DOT approved, otherwise you can get nailed for not wearing a seatbelt. Also, leave the stock seatbelt in. I've heard of people getting in trouble because they "removed safety equipment", which landed them a fine and an insurance increase.

 

I'm thinking about these.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CAM-L...7596QQtcZphoto

Opinions?


BTW: I do have a roll bar, but I'm not sure where I'm going to bolt in the passenger side shoulder straps. The driver side has a small bar with 2 holes for the harness, but the passenger side does'nt.




very old pic



Maybe I can do the passenger side Like this.

 

If you can do a bar on the passenger side similar to the driver's side, that would be much better.

The second pic that shows the eyebolt anchored in the hatch floor is a good example of how not to do it.

A friend of mine had his anchored similarly, and lost control at an autocross. He hit a fixed object hard. The impact ripped the eyebolt out and he went into the steering wheel. His helemet also hit the windshield.

 

Thanks for the info. I already purchased the Peak harness with the cam locks from ebay. I guess i'll just have to weld another bark for the passenger

 

The added cross bar will work if the belts go over it and are attached to the floor. Floor should be reinforced with a 6x6" plate welded on the underside of the floor. Eyebolt should be lined up front to back and the gap in the eye welded closed, facing the rear.

As a side note, all of the bars that any driver or passenger can come in contact with needs to be padded. A harness and bar can do more damage to occupants not wearing a helment on the street than the stock restraint system without the bar can. My roll bar is fully padded, even where I can't hit it. Padding is less than a buck a foot, very cheap insurance and protection.