just startn

iTrader: (33)

i had 2 stroke omp injection, and 1oz-1gal. premix. ran fine even with a/f in 10s

Herblenny

iTrader: (13)

Well, If that's the case, than I'm all for that vs. Pre-mix alone. I think this will resolve the issue with not lubricating during decel, low loads and high load, and also satisfy those wanting additional protection for 2 cycle in your fuel tank for high load lubrication.

Finally I think we all came to a reasonable solution?? No?? LOL!

So, OMP with external tank with 2 cycle and about 1/8 to 1 oz per gallon 2 cycle in your gas. Sounds like this will lead to ever lasting motor

mefarri

iTrader: (2)

Agreed. It's looking like that's the answer Herblenny.

So all we really need is a block off plate for the OMP? What makes the RA piece not fit? And since the oil usage is approx. 1:100 of fuel used, the fuel tank being 76 liters, I think that a 2 liter tank would be more than enough, no?

What do we think about the "adjuster" RA sells? worth it?

just startn

iTrader: (33)

My setup went as follows.

1/4 bleeder nipple tapped into the omp.

metal block off plate that let oil seep into the engine over night

1oz-1gal of the cheap oil super tech or somthing its called

Stock T2 ignition, plugs were just NGK that i matched up at autozone the smae length as stock plugs

1600cc primarys and secondarys, winebros in the tank.

holset turbo.

no_more_rice

That's a shitload of oil for a motor with a full four stroke lubrication system and tiny little seals. I've seen two stroke weedwackers run that! Even with a high output ignition to burn it all off, you're probably going to lose some top end power.

*shakes head* I give up with you recalcitrant morons, dump as much oil into the motor as you want, to fulfill some imagined need. I'll continue to drive happy with 1/2 oz per gal, stock coils, excellent spark plug life, great compression, and minimal carbon.

just startn

iTrader: (33)

look i have not posted anything about you or toward you and kept up with this thread since day 1...Now why does it matter if somone wants to dump ******* 2 gallons of oil into there motor. Why does it matter if somone wants to use 1oz-gal. i just dont understand it. we all now what you use sweeeet. good for you. awesome. hope your engine last a long time. i mean come on this thread is filled with garbage now. **** 1oz is better than nothing right? and 1/2 is better than nothing right? so if somoene wants to put 1gal in, **** better than nothing...

twinsinside

iTrader: (34)

Sometimes these discussions become more about the argument and less about the solution, which is unfortunate.

Like I said earlier imo the best solution for a happy FD would be to use the OMP with a separate 2 stroke tank, plus some level of premix and an AI system. This solution allows people to run stock CPU's, have some level of lubrication in the event of OMP failure, and also to put oil on the seals as Mazda designed the system. It also addresses the concerns of those with no lubrication on deceleration and the AI helping to keep the motor clean and give accurate compression readings (and prevents stuck seals, etc).

I'm not saying anyone is right or wrong in their thinking, but this solution meets all the criteria people seem to be concerned about.

The only thing that really needs addressed is how much oil to premix, and honestly this depends on too many factors to list. Soooo mix in how much premix you want and evaluate for yourself.

Herblenny

iTrader: (13)

He's BACK!!

Geez, I thought god changed the world for the better for a second, but no.. its still full of crap! And good use of the word 'recalcitrant', but have you stepped back and looked at yourself first before using that word? I mean basic logic most of us are using states that if you put too much oil or two stroke, you'll foul the plugs and smoke out the *** end of the car. Also, by logic used by you, pre-mix seems to be good for the engine without no ill carbon effect. So, if just starn, pre-mix 1 oz/gal, inject cheap Walmart brand 2 cycle and has no issue with fouling plugs or smoking horribly out his tail, maybe he is putting in just enough?? I mean, who are you without any scientific proof to call someone 'recalcitrant morons' when this whole thread is about providing good proof and stats. No offense to Howard, but me and some who's been reading this thread know most of the cleaning power of the rotors aren't the act of pre-mix but AI system. Again, by my understanding so far, best of both world would be to use external 2 cycle injection via OMP for decel lubrication and such and for additional protection, use various level of 2 cycle into your tank. The level vary pending how your car is tuned, how hard its driven, etc. There is no magic number of 1/4 or 1/2 oz to all cars. If you think so, you need to come up with better explanation and proof.

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

The problem is you guys are all talking about case studies...... we need clinical trials, with thousands of patients, 95% confidence interval, double-blind multi-center placebo controlled etc.

Go talk to a doctor and see what value they place in a case study. Sure it has a place, but doesnt establish any protocols or practices.

I gave up on reading this thread. I do what I do .

mefarri

iTrader: (2)

What are you talking about? I was talking about sizing the tank for the 2 stroke in such a way so that you don't have to fill it all the time. You'd top it off every fill up just like pre mix. Are you even comprehending what's being said?

twinsinside

iTrader: (34)

From what I gather he's suggesting it's way too much oil to use both premix and the omp. I don't get that since the omp doesn't inject that much and you can always reduce the amount you premix in if for some reason it is too much.

The really great thing I like about the omp+premix+AI combo is that it is a good solution for all types of setups from bone stock to race. How often can you say that lol.

Herblenny

iTrader: (13)

Rich, Love your Pharm company talk

sever1080

iTrader: (2)

I will start adding premix as a precaution, alot cheaper than a rebuild and better safe than sorry.

no_more_rice

Ernst at RX-7World just told me he just had a customer come in with a bad OMP (he tested it) and ~50 psi compression. Car only had 70k miles. No warning, no codes.

grimple1

iTrader: (1)

with 70k it was just a matter of time anyways.

But your point should be noted that once the OMP goes out (which doesn't fault a code or give any advanced warning), it truly is just a matter of time. To me this alone warrants premix.

Joe Cool

iTrader: (1)

After studying the posts, I decided to install the Rotary Aviation Metering Oil Pump Adapter and an external tank for 2 cycle oil to feed the injectors (some of you are smiling already). I have a '93 R1 with a motor built in 2004 by Chris Ott at Rotary Performance - Efini twin turbos. Here is what I found - and others found before me: 1) the MOP wiring harness must be modified to clear the oil pipe, 2)the MOP heat sheild must be modified to allow access to the oil pipe bolts when reinstalling the pipe. 3) The stainless braided injection lines installed on the new motor needed to be coaxed a bit to reach the pump oulets which moved outboard about 1" - this necessitated removing the air pump, alternator, IC piping, etc.

The adapter is installed, and ready for me to test. This project took me WAY LONGER than I expected, and included lots of frustrating moments. I'm posting this just to add another experience to those considering the MOP remocal/adapter options. Good luck and hot laps to all.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

want an ever lasting engine? run ceramic seals and premix. now you just have to worry about how long the irons will last before the step wear goes beyond the limit.

KKMpunkrock2011

iTrader: (5)

so it's not ever lasting... and you had really hope you don't detonate with those ceramics. Throw in a 50/50 water/meth mix to fight that demon off!

metalCORE

iTrader: (2)

...i want to get red of the OMP, but as i'm currently rebuilding my engine (nearly finished) i spend some thoughts on the shaft of the OMP (in the front cover) and the drive gear.

I guess the shaft can be left off if the OMP flange is blocked, but what about the drive gear? Well, in the easiest way it could be left in, but as there is no need for the sprocket, wouldn't it be an option to change it with another spacer of the same size, or to remove some material by machining?

ImamurA

this is an awesome thread...did a search for all threads by howard coleman and i am really glad i found this...this has convinced me to ditch the omp and to run a water injection kit...this and another thread where a guy had his omp fail which lead to the death of his motor after a really short while...love these informative threads

ksu-chewie

iTrader: (14)

I was going to buy some 2 cycle today at walmart (was buying oil for mazda 3), but all my wal-mart had was the 1 gallon jugs for outboard 2 cycle. I assumed this was not the right stuff because I remember buying universal 2 cycle for my chainsaw and weedeater.

no_more_rice

Use a high quality synthetic two stroke oil like Amsoil Interceptor. Why? Because you don't want any additional deposits formed on the rotor faces by burning cheap "bean" oils. I can tell you from past experience using cheap two cycle oils in my GPR waverunner that they will leave ugly deposits. Don't go cheap with a rotary engine, it will bite you sooner or later.

Show_off

iTrader: (9)

I have always used Mobile 1 5W-30 in my piston turbo cars and drag cars. I was contemplating synthetic oil since the OMP will be deleted and premix being used. Anybody running synthetic oil in their non-omp engines, or is there no point since most of us change oil like we change our underwear?

Howard Coleman

iTrader: (6)

"using cheap two cycle oils in my GPR waverunner that they will leave ugly deposits."

"all my wal-mart had was the 1 gallon jugs for outboard 2 cycle."

with the qualifier that i really know nothing about the chemistry of 2 cycle oil, or 4 cycle for that matter... i have been using exclusively Walmart SuperTech 2 cycle oil in my FD for 5 years. i continue to use it because it works and my rotors have no "ugly deposits" on them. please see my rotor pics on the first page (or thereabouts) of the thread. and, yes the containers has "outboard" on it.

"Anybody running synthetic oil in their non-omp engines?"

i have run nothing but Mobil 1 5-30 in my rotaries since 1983. rotaries stress oil more than piston engines and need all the help they can get including 2 oil coolers.

as previously mentioned oil is one of the most emotional topics on the board. i am merely sharing what works for me. your oil might be zillions of degrees better but all i know is that my oil choices, and more importantly, my external oil pump elimination and premix works for me.

hc

ksu-chewie

iTrader: (14)

This is the jug you buy?