This is an elegant solution and better than the RA adapter. That adapter was a headache due to interference with the stock twins oil return line. But for this you would need to mill a groove for another o-ring corresponding to the one on the OMP or you're going to get oil leaks.

Pomamferrari, the way the oil system is designed is that it oil pressure lubricates the pump's drive shaft plain bearing surface and the spill-off fills the small reservoir on the OMP's face.
There is no real pressure on the reservoir. Mine operates with a tight fit on the OMP’s boss and a very light coat of 515 Loctite gasket eliminator.

Barry

I saw one solution where a guy did something like this but with a second o-ring to prevent oil leaks.

 

And by the way. I would premix till the next engine removal. Doing this mod is like building a ship in a bottle, while laying on your back under your car in a cold garage, going uphill both ways! .... I getting carried away.

Barry

 

My Thoughts,
Barry

 

At 50:1 I really have to believe you would see plug fouling and/or high rpm power loss. This isn't a two stroke engine, that is a ton of extra oil, and it's just not necessary to lube these tiny seals. Again, Idemitsu reports racers running 400:1, and yes that's on a roadcourse, full throttle.

 

Also, and I don't remember if this has been previously mentioned in this thread, excess oil in the combustion chamber will decrease fuel-burn quality and HP. Therefore, running as little premix/oil-injection as possible without excessive wear is the objective.

 

How would a flame front in a combustion chamber know it was in a Rotary Engine?

If it burns well in a motorcycle 2 stroke engine it will do the same in a rotary.

"This isn't a two stroke engine, that is a ton of extra oil, and it's just not necessary to lube these tiny seals. Again, Idemitsu reports racers running 400:1, and yes that's on a roadcourse, full throttle."

Howard's straight will be a little longer than a road course, maybe 10x. Recheck Mazda's tests on the preceding page for amounts of oil.

Barry

 

Actually, both Rich and I have experienced high rpm break-up at rich mix ratios, but that wasn't my primary point. My point was that the rotary four stroke engine has wet sump lubrication - unlike a two stroke, which relies on a 50:1 (or richer) pre-mix to lubricate ALL internals, including the crankshaft. All the oil needs to do in a rotary is lubricate a few tiny seals, with very small surface areas. It's apples and oranges. You don't need much oil to do the job, especially a good synthetic, and that comes straight from Idemitsu, who has raced these cars for many years. 200:1 is PLENTY, and, in my opinion 400:1 is adequate for the street. RX-7 World runs that ratio in all their cars, and his motors look great at tear down. We need more science here, and less random speculation. The fact is running super-rich pre-mix ratios robs power, and there is abundant evidence 1/2 oz per gallon works perfectly well. I've been running that ratio for five years and I drive the car hard.

That is up to Howard, but the Texas Mile is an extreme case which has little to do with the overall purpose of this thread.

 

Not nearly as big a concern as the fact that when you're in gear and off the gas you will not be injecting premix into the CC.

 

It's not a 4-stroke. Nor is it a 2-stroke. It would be a 1-stroke if stroke we're even relevant.

the problem is that the lubicative effect of premix is dependant upon how much 2 -cycle is in it and how much of it makes it to the friction surface. Not the number and/or size of the friction surfaces.

It's really not.
50:1 isnt much oil.

super rich meaning what? sounds like random speculation to me.

you have yet to display any of this abundant evidence and have still yet to state how many miles you've put on your "case study" in those five years...which is 1000x more relevant than the period of time youve owned it.

 

Would an HKS F-con throw out an error code? Or can I just block off the OMP

 

Would an HKS F-con throw out an error code? Or can I just block off the OMP

 

I just installed the OMP block off plate. Jesus Christ....Way harder than I thought it was going to be.. The plugs are so hard to get to..you have to take off the UIM,and Primary fuel injectors, and its still hard as hell to get to them... Oil is leaking out of where my OMP used to be after installing the block off plate...I guess its just the remaining oil that was left in there, most of it was black....I'm glad I did it, BUT GEEZ WHAT A PITA...

Max

 

Wait a minute! Isn't this what I been saying??

To be honest, all this pre-mix ratio is speculation as no one know what you really need for various street driving conditions.

 

From all i have read in this thread is occurs to me that the best mix for me personally is 1/2 oz to 1 gallon with active stock OMP pump using Idemitsu 20W50 and Idemitsu Premix.

the only bad thing about Idemitsu is is not sold locally.

 

Four cycle.

 

It's not speculation when you have case study after case study (after case study) that clearly demonstrates 1/2 oz per gallon is more than adequate.

 

Where are these case studies? They don't exist.

 

Why on earth you would anyone use pre-mix AND four cycle dino juice is truly beyond comprehension. Defeats the entire purpose, you may as well not even bother with pre-mix at all.

 

Post 1 mr. deaf and blind. They exist in the form of many engine tear downs I've seen first hand and documented in this thread.

You can't reason with fools....

 

/thread

 

1) not a case study
2) not many many many case studies
3) you have posted nothing relevant to back up your claims
4) you have provided no information refuting any of my assertions
5) yes, it is very hard to reason with people like you

There have so far been zero (count 'em!) ZERO long term, high mileage case studies. You just keep spouting off at the mouth about how hard you drive your car and how you've been pre-mixing for 5 years(Still without a mileage count because it's low, too low to matter). It's also up for debate how much of howard's experience is due to water injection.

Premixing is probably great for race cars that aren't expected to last, or dyno queens that see 15,000 miles between tear downs. You want to keep your housings? You should probably run 2-cycle though the OMP.

 

Any 2-stroke oil would be fine. As long as it is ashless. A lot folks run other oils than the Idemitsu. I've run the Castrol 2-Stroke oil for a 2 years. Zero problems with plugs. Was a daily driver. It's currently down for non-engine repairs.

 

Please tell us you put RTV sealant on the BOP before you installed it. You also allowed it to cure overnight before starting the car, right?

It is odd that you use Rich as an example, he is running premix in conjuction with the OMP. He is running the same mix ratio as you as supplemental lubrication. He had high rpm break up at 1.5 oz/ga with the OMP still functioning, he was dumping in tons of oil.


Yet you just used someone that is doing just that as an arguement in a previous post.

 

amen!!

 

So your recommendation is at 1:256 (oil to gas)

Let's see if its case study or speculation...

From Amsoil


As you could see 1:100 is max dilution with their synthetic oil.

Now lets look at how the famous Idemitsu 2 cycle oil for the rotary was tested when their patient was placed..



If I'm reading correctly, they used ratio of 1:20 (oil to gas)!

All I can say is, there is no real world testing to show just pre-mix alone will make your engine last longer.. There are way too many variables and not enough real world testing (Yes, real world as in high rpm, low rpm, low load, high load, decel, idling, cold, hot, extended driving, high mile drives, etc. etc.) of just pre-mix.