TuckerJHall

I installed the ignition coil harness, it worked for about a week then the new 30 amp fuse started blowing when the key is turned to the on position, figured maybe it was grounding somewhere. Checked it quite a few times and can’t find anything. It’s a power fc ecu have the positive at the fuse box and the engine ground on the rotor housing and one ground going back to the battery and the small sun harness on a clean chassis ground. Can’t figure out what’s blowing the fuse after a week of use.

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

May have cooked a coil, test the coils out.

@F1blueRx7 can you chime in?

Dale

TuckerJHall

‘twas a burnt out coil, 0 ohms and was a little burnt on the bottom. Didn’t think a new kit would do that, appreciate the help!

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

Do some searching on this topic, there have been issues with the wiring in the Sakebomb kit that kills coils.

Dale

TeamRX8

iTrader: (2)

seen an instance on the RX8 kit too. I bought what essentially was a new kit from an RX8Club member that was misfiring from the get-go and supposedly refused warranty service. Traced it back to several harness issues. Kit is now working fine after some rewiring. Seen a coil or two burn up on other RX8 kits and thought it was a coil defect issue. Maybe that may need further consideration.

not trying to misrepresent the situation though. If SB wants to send me a pm I’ll provide all the contacts and details to them for further review & assessment.
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Narfle

iTrader: (16)

Was considering the kit, any links or clarity?

TwinCharged RX7

iTrader: (14)

I would recommend drifting Jim's kit on eBay. Better price and he makes good stuff. I have his solenoid kit too.

SakeBomb Garage

iTrader: (17)

We've sold literally over 1000 ignition kits over the years, there are zero issues with the wiring on them. I've heard some snake oil theories about needing separate rotor housing grounds (which are absolute nonsense, and electrically equvilant to our harness, and taking a 16ga wire and connecting the two rotor housings together with a single 16ga wire ). We could sell a second 16ga wire with two o-rings to connect two rotor housings together - but I think we'd be laughed off the stage haha.

I'd love to hear any feedback, issues, etc. but we pioneered the plug and play FD kit, and it has been a proven setup since 2014, and over a thousand kits out there... so if we're systematically building or shipping something incorrectly, we'd like to hear about it... but more often than not a customer ends up blowing coils due to incorerct software settings, a poor ground for the sensor ground, or other setup issues.

We care about customers and it's very frustrating to see people start rumors, so any information you can provide - we're all ears. That said, this has been the gold standard for the IGN1A FD and RX8 setups for years now, nothing has changed and the technology has not advanced, they work and they are reliable.

-SBG



https://www.sakebombgarage.com/ign-1...x-7-lhd-mount/

F1blueRx7

iTrader: (5)

First and foremost, if you're using any aftermarket ECU like a Haltech, always ALWAYS unplug your coils when doing firmware updates. There have been cases where Haltech firmware defaults to a non IGN1a coil and will put incorrect voltage causing 100% duty cycle to the coil melting it down immediately.

IGN1a coils are sensitive to grounds. There are three ground pins in the harness. Sensor Ground, Battery Ground and Cylinder head ground. Cyl head ground is the "rumor" referenced above where the theory is R1 coils should be grounded to R1 iron etc, you can pick whether or not you feel this is true. The information I've seen is that with higher horsepower, IGN1a's will break up at high RPM. Talk to your tuner for the best advice here, I'm not interested in debating it. If you have a proper star grounding pattern, and don't use the chassis as a ground path to anything you should be fine. FD's are effectively glued together with bonding material that makes a poor ground path PARTICULARLY in situations where the battery has been relocated to the rear bin, and you're not using a ground from the Negative battery directly to the top of the engine where the OEM EFI harness is grounded to. Most battery relocation setups try to use a chassis ground, or a small ground wire (less than 4AWG welding cable).

Generally speaking if the coil has had more than 40% duty cycle applied, is bulging, gets really hot when running, or has electrolyte pouring out of it with smoke, it's bad.

gracer7-rx7

iTrader: (16)

^Interesting regarding the grounding for relocated batteries. I might do something about mine in the future.

Narfle

iTrader: (16)

Thank you for the context/perspective.

TeamRX8

iTrader: (2)

well again I didn’t speak directly with you and only had the previous owners input, but it’s clear he spoke correctly because I was told there was no consideration offered to even look at it or consider that there was possibly something going on otherwise. Which is basically what’s expressed in the response above. I could go into more about it including involving Lance Nist and his input, but what’s the point when it’s clear there’ll be no consideration at all for it. After all, measuring continuity is a quite complex and exceedingly tricky procedure that should be left to a qualified specialist. I humbly defer to your wisdom on the matter. 🙇‍♂️
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cewrx7r1

iTrader: (2)

I do not see a mention of which ECU is being used.
Attached is the FC-Tweak

values to be used with the Apexi PFC.

cewrx7r1

iTrader: (2)

The FC-Tweak is the best software to modify the PFC dat file with use of the Datalogit.