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Safe boost level for 2piece seals

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Old Dec 26, 2014 | 05:53 AM
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Safe boost level for 2piece seals

I took her for run and was hitting 147.6kpa
Backed of straight away my intention was only to run 1.2bar max
Have t70 turbo
Just wondering what evry 1 els is running and problems you have come across
Thanks
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Old Dec 26, 2014 | 07:42 AM
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"Safe" levels have more to do with how good your tune and supporting mods are, than specifically which apex seal you're running.
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Old Dec 26, 2014 | 08:13 AM
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it really depends on alot more there is no simple answer , depending on the turbo , The injectors , the tune , new Fuel pump , fuel pump re wiring , after 14 psi , You also need a new map sensor .
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Old Dec 26, 2014 | 09:39 AM
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Where you can run the engine without detonation and keep the engine cool.
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Old Dec 26, 2014 | 12:17 PM
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Originally Posted by lOOkatme
Where you can run the engine without detonation and keep the engine cool.
a friend of mine was running 20psi @500rwhp on 89 pump for years. no AI. he spent a lot of time on his map.
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Old Dec 26, 2014 | 12:37 PM
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Boost level isn't realty an issue with most seals. It more comes down to detonation resistance and clearancing. Many people including myself have made over 500 wheel hp on stock seals. That being said, I generally stick with oem seals on near stock builds and like something stronger for most single turbo cars or anything 400 hp plus. The higher boost you run and the more power you make, the greater the risk of detonation. One good knock can break a stock apex seal and cause a good deal of internal damage.
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Old Dec 26, 2014 | 01:07 PM
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Thanks for all input i was doing some tests today and relised stock map sensor goes to defult after 227kpa about 17psi thats what im plaing to hit 1.1 bar so guess i need new mapsensor ( tested with vac gauge )

My mods are
Standalone motec m2r full rewired with quality wire
fuel pump been rewired
Aem smart coils x4
Extreamly large street port
V mount intercooler ( best mod by far massive diffrence )
2x oil coolers
850cc injectors all round
I dont mind spending time on map
Ive got it to the stage where i can start boosting
I just diddnt want to go mental straight away
Again thanks for all input very helpfull
Im still thinking on apex seal upgrade but unsure
What setup and apex seal is evry 1 running and boost level just for refrence
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Old Dec 26, 2014 | 07:55 PM
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T70 is a big turbo. I wouldn't get too aggressive. run the turbo between 1.6 and 2.0 pressure ratio. Looks like you are at sea level, so I would run the turbo between 9 PSI and 14 PSI.

I wouldn't get too aggressive on pump gas, I am a conservative person though.

I would run conservative timing, and tune your AFR's to where you want them (be conservative in boost rows without AI). run the car with the conservative timing and hit all the cells tuning to say 8PSI. when you dial in the map stepping down row by row on your cells (load) continue to boost more up to say 14PSI. dial in your AFR's. once the afr's are where they are at, you can run a little more aggressive timing in areas where it might help spool and what not, again nothing too aggressive. Then dial back down the boost when you see colder/warmer weather and your AIT and water temps move around so you can dial in your AIT and water temp tables. Try to tune the entire map at the same AIT and water temps.

Now you say you have (4) 850CC injectors? 3,400CC of injector. That isn't a whole ton of injector for the size of your turbo. I would step up the secondaries to 2000's. You simply don't have enough fuel for this turbo to run the PSI above. I wouldn't run injectors over 85% duty cycle. (watch this while you are tuning).
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Old Dec 27, 2014 | 12:01 PM
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You will definitely need more injector.
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Old Dec 27, 2014 | 05:29 PM
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
the other piece of advise is to start at low boost and work your way up
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Old Jan 1, 2015 | 05:15 PM
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Hey guys diddnt want to post till i had data
Right defo need map sensor i slowly tuned to 15psi 215.6kpa on map sensor also hitting 76% duty on injectors all is sweet using internal boost control it was playing up at first untill i relised i had it on wrong setting lol had it open to boost
So far so good im going to smooth the map out bit more
What is a good map sensor for motec m2r that will be next on the list
Also remaking det cans good old garden hose and copor

Thanks for all replys
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Old Jan 3, 2015 | 08:25 AM
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Also what exhaust temp should i not go past at the moment im only hitting 700deg c but i am running rich
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Old Jan 3, 2015 | 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by imitek
Hey guys diddnt want to post till i had data
Right defo need map sensor i slowly tuned to 15psi 215.6kpa on map sensor also hitting 76% duty on injectors all is sweet using internal boost control it was playing up at first untill i relised i had it on wrong setting lol had it open to boost
So far so good im going to smooth the map out bit more
What is a good map sensor for motec m2r that will be next on the list
Also remaking det cans good old garden hose and copor

Thanks for all replys
you are running 850CC injectors all around still and running 76% injector duty cycle? That is around 315-330WHP for our cars. You have a large turbo, wondering what is going on?
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Old Jan 3, 2015 | 04:45 PM
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Originally Posted by imitek
Also what exhaust temp should i not go past at the moment im only hitting 700deg c but i am running rich
That's close to 1300 degrees F. That's fine under boost. I'd leave it there. Its fine to see 1400-1500 off boost during cruising but I don't like it any higher than that.
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Old Jan 3, 2015 | 06:29 PM
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Right im at 5424rpm at 227kpa and on logs its now showing 87injector%
But past that rev the highest duty seen is 92%
Im hitting 10 afr at this boost at hi rpm will be leaning it out what afrs should i aim for spooling and peak



im ordering a map sensor and injectors rails etc but want to mess with this set up i have now for a bit to get use to it
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Old Jan 3, 2015 | 06:33 PM
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With out without meth? I'd move up to 2000cc secondaries at the minimum. Ideally I'd do both rails and all 4 injectors. I don't like duty cycles past 80%. I know you can run injectors into the 90s easily, but I like to leave headroom for a boost spike or cold weather.

Last edited by IRPerformance; Jan 3, 2015 at 06:35 PM.
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Old Jan 3, 2015 | 07:37 PM
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No meth but im seeing weird dutys sometimes duty low and othertimes hi diffrence of 10duty same streach pull could this be pump wèak?
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Old Jan 3, 2015 | 08:31 PM
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Originally Posted by imitek
No meth but im seeing weird dutys sometimes duty low and othertimes hi diffrence of 10duty same streach pull could this be pump wèak?
did you smooth the map out?
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Old Jan 4, 2015 | 03:09 AM
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Its bit blocky not perfect but this is how it was with the last run










this is the mapp if any 1 is interested

https://www.dropbox.com/s/kucynfer7t...usted.T62?dl=0

also on idle my AIT sensor seems to reach 60deg when sitting in 1 spot for about 30min or so but as soon as you take it for a run seems to clear threw crusing at 31deg boosting goes down to 21 and have seen as low as 17deg
outside temp that day was 4deg ish

my coolant temp round town is 85deg as soon as i hit motorway it drops down rapidly to 70 (unsure if this will cause any problem later on ) cooling fans cuts in at 90 and off at 85 i have tried another thermostat same
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Old Jan 4, 2015 | 11:35 AM
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With no meth I like the afrs in the high 10s under boost. With meth I like to lean it out to about 11.1-11.2. What are you running for an ait?
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Old Jan 4, 2015 | 11:39 AM
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When driving the car (tuning or not) be careful not to heat soak the car and then do a hard run right after heat soak events. You have the AIT/fuel table and if you run it hard your sensor cannot adjust quickly enough to the temp of air coming in and it could inject the wrong amount of fuel. drive it around easy to bring down the AIT, tune safely for conditions like this and you should be find.
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Old Jan 4, 2015 | 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by lOOkatme
When driving the car (tuning or not) be careful not to heat soak the car and then do a hard run right after heat soak events. You have the AIT/fuel table and if you run it hard your sensor cannot adjust quickly enough to the temp of air coming in and it could inject the wrong amount of fuel. drive it around easy to bring down the AIT, tune safely for conditions like this and you should be find.
That's why these cars really need a fast-acting ait sensor
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Old Jan 5, 2015 | 11:45 AM
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Originally Posted by IRPerformance
That's close to 1300 degrees F. That's fine under boost. I'd leave it there. Its fine to see 1400-1500 off boost during cruising but I don't like it any higher than that.
i've put an EGT probe on a few stock ECU'd cars, the FD ecu being one of them, and it will run about ~700c peak, so i agree, 700c is a good place to start. if we're taking our cues from the factory maps, this means a rich mixture, in the 10's.

i know the high HP cars will tune a little hotter than that, around 900-950c, but you need to know what you're doing, as you have less margin for error.
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Old Jan 5, 2015 | 12:50 PM
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It looks like stock iat sensor does the fast acting ait sensors heat soak ?
When it did soak after about 5 min of normal driving it reads fine my alarm Is set to 60deg for ait sensor
Good info on the egt thanks loads very helpfull you basicly saved my engine lol i thort my egt temps were able to go to the 900deg

Also is the meth injection a large improvment ?
As i thort that the pump gas is still unstable so will still pree burn (under boost)?
Or am i going loopey?
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Old Jan 5, 2015 | 01:04 PM
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Yea u guys where right ive hit 100%duty at 1 bar 6300rpm random in 2nd gear
Injectors rails ,pump,map sensor delco 3 bar sensor
And posibly ait sensor if i can find 1 within uk or il order all from the us
Would 4x 2000cc id injectors be ok for idle and not to over kill i would want the same injectors for both prim and sec so i dont get a peak error on my ecu as it will error with diffrent injector resistance from primry to sec
And 2x 044 pumps or one 400lph walbro
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