Found this link in the NA section.
https://www.rx7club.com/naturally-aspirated-performance-forum-220/official-rx8-e-shaft-thread-787621/

It looks like I got my flywheel nut too tight, yes too tight, last time I did a clutch job. Some of the threads chipped off when I removed the flywheel nut during my rebuild. I am afraid that I will get the engine all back together and then strip my eccentric shaft trying to torque the flywheel nut back down.

Option 1: do nothing
Option 2: replace with new or used rx7 e shaft
Option 3: get a super cheap new rx8 shaft

Now is the time to replace the thing, but I want to know what you guys think.
I will be replacing main and rotor bearings regardless.

 

replace with used in spec FD 13B-REW E-shaft, its not worth the hassle to have timing issues or balance issues down the road.

 

You can use the rx8 E-Shaft without a problem. And on a side note you can use the front and rear main bearings as well.

 

^Thrust bearing and washer are the same as well.

 

Did a little more research. Getting an rx8 eccentric shaft. Thanks for the input guys. It still behooves me how a finely machined, heavy piece of metal can be manufactured, transported and sold for $150 at a profit? China?

 

question - does the RX8 E-shaft have the thermowax oil control pellet? If it does will the RX7 thermowax eliminator plug work with this E-shaft?

 

My understanding is that they are identitical in every way with the exception that the lobes have been lightened slightly on the RX8. Otherwise they are interchangable.

 

Correct, the lobes are slightly lighter, but most agree shaft is the same strength.

 

better question is why the shafts cost so little when the rather simple electronic oil metering pump costs nearly as much as a full remanufactured engine.

 

You guys make it sound like a DIRECT fit, however, Atkins Rotary states :
" Manual Transmission Rx8 Eccentric Shafts weigh half a pound less than an rx7 eccentric shaft. This shaft will also interchange with 93-95 rx7s with proper balancing. "
So what is this proper balancing he is talking about ?
And what would happen if it is not done, and just put in an FD engine and used as is ( Like it is being encouraged to do on this thread ) .
$186 for an Rx8 Eshaft vs $490 for an FD Eshaft is a no-brainer if no additional machining or "Balancing" costs and troubles are added..
Where can I get one for $150 shipped ?

 

It is pretty much a direct fit... Only thing of note really is that you may want to press rx-8 bearings into your stat gear(s), or just get the rx-8 stat gears as well. One thing to note on the rear rx-8 stat gear though, is that the 8's design has the oring being mounted to the iron, as opposed to the gear, so you'll need to use some "right stuff" (or something similar) on the rx-8 rear stat gear if you're mounting it to an FD rear iron.

(and nice 3 year bump! lol)

 

Widely available once you find a time machine.

 

You can't use rx-8 stationary gears without machining of the groove for the o-ring. Silicone has no business being used here. That is not the right way to do things. The e-shaft itself swaps right in but check your bearing clearance.