Davin

iTrader: (14)

ok, i have a question of the sequence of the modifications for our 7. would you put this list right?

1 - downpipe
2 - exhaust
3 - oil coolers
4 - fuel rails (to over come the fpd)
5 - intercooler
6 - intake
7 - radiator
8 - spark plugs/wires
9 - coil-overs
10 - cat converter

how would you recommend doing this sequence?

VegasFD

That list is wrong. Come on dude, read the FAQ instead of posting the same questions over and over.

*RX007*

iTrader: (4)

umm no... more like this

performance wise

1 - downpipe
2 - intake
3 -exhaust
4 - ecu
5 - fuel pump
6 - intercooler
7 - injectors

reliability wise

1 - ast
2 - radiator
3- dp can also fall into this category
4 - spark plugs and wires
5 - oil change

smileyou

i thought the cat was the first on teh list

u lose

my list:

reli:
1.brand new reman motor
2. new fuel system, pump, injectors, fuel filter, etc
3. new sensors, wiring harness, etc
4. new hoses, check valves, etc
5. boost and water temp gauges
6. boost controller
7. turbo timer
8. rad. relocation
9. new plugs and plug wires

preformance:
1. 4in exhaust
2. twin intake
3. FMIC w/ greddy elbow

running very healthy right now.

silverTRD

iTrader: (37)

does that 4" exhaust include a dp and mp? hope not with the mods listed...

slopoke03

kABOOOOM!

need an ecu.
how many miles on it?

to Davin, reliability first. then power. move your radiator much higher up and include redoing your vacuum lines. If change dp exhaust and cat, you will need a better ecu.

slopoke03

I like RX007's list best. Do the reliability list first, then the power and have fun

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

I assume this is all hypothetical

yuichiror

iTrader: (1)

Ok, I'll put in my 2 cents.
Reliability:
1. BOOST GAUGE!!!
2. AST
3. All hoses, silicone/viton (coolant/fuel hoses can be OEM/aftermarket, just don't over spend)
4. Rad if it's orig and old, get an all metal one.
5. PM work on a regular basis( ALL fluids, oil/fuel filters, plugs/wires, t-stat, check hoses )
6. Coolant Temp gauge
7. Upgraded/additional oil coolers, IF you need them

Performance:
1. Down pipe (also a reliability mod)
2. Intake
3. Cat back
4. With the DP and CB you MIGHT need a boost controller
5. High flow cat
6. Programmable ECU to continue with mods
7. Then you can go with bigger injectors/fuel rail/fuel pump( I don't think a higher flow fuel pump give a big advantage on stock injectors, correct me if I'm wrong).
8. Mid pipe and port the wastegate.

USELESS: aftermarket BOV and Turbo Timer

apex_sideway

Here's my list after regular maintence stuff:

1) Change Fuel Filter- Only 15,000miles til they become a ticking time bomb.
2) Aluminum AST- This is crucial because if the stock one hasn't cracked already, it will.
3) Aluminum Radiator- Keep that cooling down, the stock one cracks.
4) Downpipe- Helps your engine run cooler.
5) Boost/Water Temp gauges- These will definately help you monitor your engine.
6) Sequential system- Do a full hose job so turbo's work properly.


If things don't feel right after that . . . get a new engine

Then, after that, the order goes- Intake, exhaust, intercooler, oil cooler (optional), ecu w/ boost controller, mid-pipe, fuel system, turbo upgrade . . . .

adam c

iTrader: (2)

My 2 cents: Read the damn FAQ!!!

u lose

nope thats everything i have. 4inch exhaust is just the cat back...

*RX007*

iTrader: (4)

njstreetrx7

i dont think ast should be in top 5 the stock ast has been proven to last over 100k and been also proven to fail early....the stockradiator also falls in this catagory!!

TRISPEEDFD3S

iTrader: (26)

Yeah, but for when it doesn't last 100,000 miles, I bet you will be wishing you had purchased one. My number one would be RADIATOR!

VegasFD

No one's saying a stock AST can't last 100,000 miles. But the plastic they are made out of does get extremely brittle over time. Mine for example, the nipple running to the thermostat housing broke off with the consistency of a wafer cookie. I'm not kidding.

*RX007*

iTrader: (4)

yes but its is money well invested $150 for an ast or $3k for a new engine, btw mine lasted 105k mi

c_akira

iTrader: (1)

I like this list too. The only thing I would add is a Boost Gauge and, on the performance list, maybe a Boost Controller after the exhaust if you don't plan to spring for an ecu right away.

scotty305

iTrader: (2)

There's a pretty good thread about this already, it's posted in the FAQ:

Reliability mods / $1000 to spend
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/i-have-%241-000-spend-339981/



Here's my opinion: the more power your car makes, the less reliable it will be. Upgrade the supporting systems before trying to make more power. Enjoy the FD's already-stellar power and handling by taking it to autocrosses, track days, drift events, or whatever else gets your adrenaline going. Spend your time driving and modifying the car so you can drive it more, rather than installing mods that will require you to spend time and money fixing the problems they might cause.


1. Maintenance: replace all filters (fuel, oil, air), sparkplugs & wires, & belts. Don't forget the cooling system: replace radiator fluid, thermostat, pressure caps. New tires, especially if the old ones have more than two years on them.

2. Gauges: water temp and boost gauge. Oil temp if you plan to race the car. Make sure your turbo control system is producing the proper 10-8-10 boost pattern, and you're not overheating.

3. Downpipe: ceramic coated and fiberglass-wrapped.
4. AST: upgrade or eliminate.
5. Oil cooler(s), if your car isn't an R1 or R2 (they're already equipped with dual OEM oil coolers).
6. Intercooler: most people wait on this, but a reasonably-sized (no greater than 2x the stock IC volume) intercooler is a great way to keep intake temps reasonable, which will prevent autoignition and keep your apex seals happy.
7. Radiator.
8. Suspension: start by replacing the OEM bushings, which are probably old.
9. ECU: the Apex'i Power FC is the most popular for this car. I also recommend having a wideband O2 sensor installed, and having the ECU tuned by a professional. Steve Kan of Gotham Racing is the best for FD's, according to these forums. He travels around the country, check www.gothamracing.com for more info.
10. Now that you can monitor your air/fuel ratios and control your fuel settings, evaluate for yourself if you need to upgrade your fuel system, and do so if necessary.
11. Ignition
12. Go crazy with flow mods: intake, exhaust, midpipe. Don't forget to have the ECU tuned.
13. Methanol / water injection.
14. Still need more power? Time for a ported motor and/or upgraded turbocharger(s).



-s-

Davin

iTrader: (14)

yes, but this is a debatable topic and i want to get others inputs on what they think and not what just one person suggests; hence the reason for this post. i have read the rob robbinette website inside out and his mod list is his personal taste and ideas. i want others opinions for me and for others as well

Nameless

Everyone has their take on the road map for modifications, but for the most part everyone can agree that the reliability mods should come first.

If you are starting with a stock vehicle that is running properly that's gravy. Get started with a focus on cooling. Thus the AST, Radiator, DP should come first.

You should really consider getting a stand-alone if you are serious about modifying your car for power. Consider what systems your local turners (or you) are comfortable with before purchasing. No point in getting the popular PowerFC if the only map you can get is a pre-made map not specific for your car.

As you start to modify your car heavily for more power just remember to update your maps for tuning. Proper tuning is the difference between a blown $10k set up and a working one.

Montego

iTrader: (1)

you are so 5 years ago

Davin,
You can have just about any mod as long as you stay within 10 psi. No more. Spikes are controlled via a boost controller. If you creep you must port the wastegate.

-boost gauge first.
-Boost controller (you will need it to prevent spikes form your exhaust mods)
-downpipe
-exhaust
-intake
-intercooler
-cat converter (do you mean Hi-flow?)
-fuel rails (to over come the fpd)
-In order to run higher boost you need an ECU. Depending on how much boost you may need fuel upgrades.
-coil-overs

this falls under maintenance:
-spark plugs/wires
-radiator (how many miles on your rad? Stock rad cools the car just fine but old rads tend to crack at the end tanks)
-oil coolers are you gonna autocross or something? if you are then it's a must. If not then it's an overkill

Montego

iTrader: (1)

oh and far as as the AST is concerned. The stock one is fine. But make sure you keep a keen eye on it. A healthy AST should be solid black. When they are old and brittle they turn greenish. At any sign of wear replace.

I upgraded to a pettit AST at the same time as my rebuild. Since then I always had problems with coolant leaking from the over flow tank. I had that problem for YEARS, I would replace radiator caps and the problem would go away for about two months and then it would come back. So I went back to stock... now over 6 months now and no more probelms.

Just so you know a lot of people just regurgitate what they read here. I have been guilty of that myself, but I have owned my car for 8 years now and I have made some realizations in that time.

Bottom line:

the stock ECU is fine as long as you stay within 10 psi (I had a MP,DP,CAI,IC,CATBACK and a STREETPORT on a stock ECU for years. WOT every chance I got. I never blew because I always kept my boost limited to 10).

The upgraded AST is iffy because the quality control of the aftermarket companies is not as stringent as OEM. So you may get one that's not as good (I'm not the only one that this has happened to). But the stock AST does tend to crack so you really have to keep an eye on it. Remember green = you are living on borrowed time. If you go aftermarket and start leaking from the overflow tank a few months down the road then you why.

The stock rad -cools just fine. It's true the plastic end tanks will prematurely crack from the passenger's side. So if you have the dough and the car has over 60k miles change the rad.

that's my $.02

Nameless

For the small amount of money it costs for an aluminum AST or eliminating it, I dont see why you would want to add "checking AST for cracks" to your list of duties.

Dont get me wrong I had a stock AST that lasted a long while.