80-CU.IN.T

Horsepower - 379 @ 7000RPM
Torque - 309 @ 5700RPM

13B - Large street port / Rotary Power / 3mm seal
Intake manifold - pinned, ported, polished and Extrude honed
Apex'i RX6 turbo - Exhaust turbine housing ported / extrude honed
Computer - PFC / Commander
TiAl 46 mm Wastegate - Green spring suppose to be 11psig but was between 13 - 15psig
TiAl BOV
No boost control because of wastegate spring pressure
Fuel pump - Large Denso - Don't know GPH with my fuel tube size.
Stock fuel pressure regulator
Injectors - 550cc primary - 1300cc secondary
Stock ignition
Exhaust - 3" W/ 2 mufflers ( SR Motor sports )
Apex'i GTR Intercooler - W/ 2 ½" tubing
Oil metering pump ( REMOVED )
Secondary throttle plates removed
Oil - Royal Purple 5 - 30WT ( will be changing to 10 - 40 ) oil pressure is too low for a oil cooled turbo
Gas 91 octane With Two stroke oil additive
Spark plugs - HKS Iridium Racing R525RE

I don't have a scanner but I will post my Dyno sheet later with some picks if I can figure out how to.

XS Engineering performed the Dyno session.( I was pleased with their work and recommend them to anyone else.) I am very disappointed with my results so far though. Peak boost was around 15 lbs and jumped between 13 and 15 leveling off at 14 at 7000RPM. This is what I was told. My ignition started to miss fire at around 6700RPM. I need about 12% - 15% more HP. I can get 5% easy but I have no idea how to get the other 7 - 10 without making some major changes. The torque curve is very flat and the HP very linear. This car should be very easy to drive at the limit.

The first thing XS said was that my intercooler pipes were too small ( 3" ) minimum ( Mine 2 ½" )and they didn't like my exhaust. They said 3 ½" minimum. ( Mine 3" ) Lastly they complained about my wastegate dump pipe being plumbed back into my down pipe. They have seen a lost of up to ( 27HP ) because of this. They have a Hell of a lot more experience than I do and I have no reason to doubt them. This was a very good learning curve for me so I hope whoever reads this ( LEARN FROM MY MISTAKES ). That is why I am typing this long and drawn out passage.

XS also kick my out of their shop ( POLITELY ) about 10 times and would not let me perform any maintenance on my vehicle or be involved in the dyno session. ( I had to stand outside) I can understand. I have been in their shoes where you have a customer peering over your shoulder and asking questions when you are trying to work. ( I hate that ) Also they probably get a lot of ( YAHOOS ) in there. Unfortunately, that was most likely me. XS also fixed a few problems. All my very nice expensive hose clamps leaked on my intercooler lines and I put my throttle body gasket in backwards ( DUH ) big leak. I wondered why it was hard to adjust the idle. It stile leaks. I need a new gasket now. Lastly the flange for my BOV warped because too much heat was put into it during welding. I told them to silicone it for the Dyno session.

Originally I removed my Apex'i wastegate and replaced it with a 46mm TiAl Plumbed into my down pipe. (My friend blew up his Honda because of the Apex'i wastegate sticking) I put about 800 miles on my motor and the day before my dyno I got on it hard to see boost pressure ( Pressure jumped to 17lbs by around 3500RPM) I think it was less than that but I got out of it as quickly as I could. Scared the **** out of me because my fuel settings were VERY far off. I rushed out and bought a Big Green Spring = 11PSIG supposedly. The springs that were in it were a big blue and small yellow. I have no idea what that pressure works out to. I couldn't run any type of boost control because of this so no more testing could be performed. The big green sping in my setup gave beween 13 - 15 PSIG. I am out of time I gota go.

fdracer

you know how many people would kill to have your problems? considering this is your first dyno session and all the **** that went wrong, those are some very good numbers. what were your a/f ratios? do you have a midpipe? it wouldn't seem to me that the exhaust diameter or ic piping would limit you at this point, 3" and 2.5" would seem to be sufficient to well over 400rwhp. i really don't see your wg being plumbed back into your exhaust as a problem either (if plumbed correctly). maybe it attaches too close to the turbo still or the angle of attachment is too sharp both of which would disrupt exhaust flow? imo, get your ignition worked out and all the leaks fixed first before changing your ic and exhaust pipes. those are some really good numbers considering we have the shittiest gas in the nation. imo, rwhp over the low 400's is kinda pushing it on 91 octane on a 2 rotor.

hey, can you explain why 5w30's oil pressure is too low for you? i would think the lower oil pressure is more than made up for by the increased volume of oil flow. i would think this is especially good for an oil cooled turbo as increased flow would carry away more heat.

aimedhigh

Out of curiosity, where did you get the exhaust side of the turbo ported/honed? What dimensions did you get after? What type of flow improvement were you anticipating? Do you know someone who has done this mod?
BTW- Great post!

80-CU.IN.T

It lasted all day. ( 9:00 to 4:30 ) I was charged alittle over $600

80-CU.IN.T

XS fixed all of the leaks with the exception of the throttle body gasket. The clamps were tightened so tight I was a little worried about them cracking the aluminum intercooler pipes. I used 2 ½' tubing to try to keep gas velocity up.

Air / fuel Ratio was around 11.5 at 7000 relatively safe.

The wastegate plumbing is beautiful if you ask me.( Seriously smooth bends and a long Y where it connects to the down pipe) I could made it dump farther down my down pipe but I didn't want it running too close to the trans.

I feel the same way about the oil. Basic rule of thumb is around 10 to 12LBS per 1000RPM unless you are running very loose clearances for a race only motor ( For max / short HP.) It was suggested to run a thicker oil for the turbo ( I don't know why ) I am a V8 Guy. This is my first attempt at a Rotary / turbo. 600 - 700RWHP with tons of torque isn't real hard on pump gas for a V8. Just costs bucks for reliability. I wanted to try something different and am glad that I did. I really like this car. I just want around 7LBS per HP for a daily driver. I know that might sound strange but I am exceedingly **** in what I drive. If it can't push someone out of the way or fly up a 12" curb, I want my car to get me out of the way of the idiots that try to do that to me.

I have pictures of all my mods which I will post but I need a scanner to do it. I am unfortunately sick as a dog and was yesterday also during Dyno.( Could be that is why they kicked me out. I looked very scruffy non shaven or showered. I overslept and had a long drive. Didn't want to be excessively late and make it a 2 day session.) When I go to my friends house sometime this weekend I will post the picks on this thread.

80-CU.IN.T

I did all of the porting myself. The stock Apex'i exhaust turbine housing is very small. I opened it up and contoured it as much as I could. I hope it doesn't crack. Extrude hone in the Los Angeles area ( Can't remember the city ) did the extrude hone. Do a Google search and you will find them. I didn't flow test it before or after but trust me it's better that it was stock.

1FooknTiteFD

They dyno tuned my car over the summer and I made 306rwhp at 10psi before my car started to misfire. (stock plugs and stock ignition) I have an appointment with them and am going back for another session during winter break and I expect to get better numbers then.

Does the Tial wastegate bolt straight up to the intake manifold for the RX6? I have the apex'i wastegate on mine and just had the guide valve honed but am considering a better wastegate just in case. What type of exhaust do you have and also what kind of boost do you plan on boosting on 91 octane?

dclin

iTrader: (4)

Thanks for the post! I was under the impression that the TIAL could not fit. Good to hear that you got it to work though.

How much did the extrude honing cost?

80-CU.IN.T

The TiAL wastegate requires fabrication t work. HKS 50 mm is supose to be a bolt up and would definately be an easier way to go. Give them an E-mail to find out the flange pattern and dimentions. My spelling sucks and right now I donn't care. Nothing personal but I have a kleenex up each side of my nose right now because I have a cold and I am getting cotton mouth because I have to breath through my frigin nose. So I am going to try to sleep for about the 5th frigin time today. I took a frigin sleeping pill and it didn't do squat. AHH

maxcooper

Nice dyno numbers! Get a boost controller and try it again. I, too, was pleased with the tuning job that XS did for me, and I haven't had any fuel problems (no detonation) since the tuning job. I need to re-tune to run more boost, but it has been reliable for street flogging and a few track events with the XS tuning.

I bought a TiAL 46mm wastegate with intentions of installing it on my RX6 kit, but another owner tried out the HKS SS Racing and found that it was almost a direct bolt-on. Note that the "HKS Stainless Steel Racing Wastegate" is the specific model, and it is different from the Standard or Racing wastegates. So, depite the fact that I am sure you could do some fab work and install the TiAL, I chose the easier route of installing the HKS SS Racing wastegate. All I had to do was file the holes on the A'PEXi dump tube flange to bolt it up. It bolts directly to the manifold (same bolt pattern), but the HKS studs are a little short. Both wastegates have an excellent reputation for reliability, and I would have rather installed the TiAL because it is a nicer looking unit (and cheaper), but practicality drove me to the HKS solution. I haven't had any issues with it since the install.

-Max

fdracer

80 cu in,
what kind of hp numbers are you looking for? i still feel that for single turbo fd's on 91 octane, 400rwhp is the exception rather than the norm. have you talked to other shops about some of the suggestions xs made? a second opinion might be good before you scrap your whole exhaust and ic setup. have you tried hotter plugs than the hks iridium you currently have? you might make better hp if you've got a stock ignition, as the hks might be too cold, making them hard to fire.

80-CU.IN.T

Thanks for the input MAX. This post was supose to be is the single turbo section but I made a mistake. I started a new thread with my dyno sheet and some pics in the single section

80-CU.IN.T

I am looking for 415 to 425 RWHP @ 16 to 17 LBS of boost. 16 LBS by 3000 RPM. I agree with you on the plugs ( They are cold and I do need a stronger ignition. ) I will be up-grading to a MSD W/ water injection in the future but I am exceedingly short on funds right now. Everybody wants more it's just how to pay for it.