Well, to start with, my names Jay and im currently shopping for an FD to replace my current ride (02 v6 Bird). I downhill and SCCA race here in Alabama and am looking to get back into imports (used to be a Nissan tuner). Im aware of alot of the quirks of the rotaries, but ive been a knuckledragger for so long, im waaay out of touch with how these wonderful machines work and before I remotely start to buy (especially mod), id like to know a few things and yall seemed like the go to source of knowledge on the net... so here goes:

1) (again, im a newb and this is prolly a silly question): do the stock sequentials require 2 BOVs and WGs? Also, what style flange is it and what aftermarket manufacturers are compatible with it?

2) I realize the importance of keeping the motor rich...just how rich exactly though? What is an ideal A/F ratio for dialy street driving, but mild agressiveness without compromising safety?

3) What is a good EGT temp to keep an eye on? Will it stabilize or increase with heat soak?

4) Ive looked at alot of intercoolers (realizing the weaknesses of the stock ones) and am pretty sold on the M2 medium, but does anyone know how well the Blitz SMIC compares?

5) What are the better branded ECUs to go with mild street mods?

Overall, im aiming for around 300 crank hp. my goals arent that much because on the mountain, too much power and you just fight the car, balance and handling is my goal. (full exhaust, intake, SMIC, intercooler, ECU; the rest is suspension stuff)

Id like to do a single to get rid of the vacuum line problem, but it seems its not only an expensive endeavor, but also the complications of the vacuum lines seem HELLATIOUS.

Thanks so much, and I remember what it was like being a newbie to the F-body world and how much I learned from the friendly forums help and I hope you guys can guide me to the path of turbo glory once more!

 

OK, to answer a few of your questions -

1. The stock twins have 2 BOV's, but one is actually the BOV and the other is the charge relief valve for prespooling the second turbo. Wastegates are internal. Aftermarket BOV's will get you a keen whistle noise, but that's about it - the stock BOV will flow a LOT of air and hold a LOT of boost.

2. People typically tune for 11 to 11.5:1 at full throttle. Some tune richer, some leaner - it depends on what your comfort level is.

3. Peak EGT's are typicaly around 780 deg. C on a turbo rotary.

4. Pretty much all the intercoolers out there have good and bad points. In general, I believe the M2 medium has more mass than the Blitz SMIC, and mass is a good thing when it comes to IC's. But, just upgrading the stocker to *anything* goes a long way.

5. There's a number of routes to go with ECU's. First are chipped ECU's, like Pettit's and M2's. The chips are re-tuned to provide fuelling for more mods and boost, but you still are stuck with the limitations of the stock ECU - 3000 RPM hesitation, can't upgrade fuel injectors, etc. Second is the Apexi PowerFC - it's pretty much a full standalone, but is plug and play and really makes the car run great. It's totally flexible for whatever you want to do. Finally is the full standalones - Haltech, Microtech, Motec, etc. More work for installation and initial tuning, but they can REALLY do anything.

The "rat's nest" of vacuum lines isn't as bad as one would think. Most times if you don't screw with it, it works well. Not to mention the stock twins can make a LOT of power with a very flexible powerband.

Do plenty of searching and reading - there is a LOT written on these cars, and very little hasn't been done before or discussed ad infinitum.

Dale

 

trading Fbody power for FD?

switch cars AND engines with the guy

 

if this is an offer from BoostFrenzy, hit him up. I've seen pictures of his car, and it looks immaculate. The guy he bought it from claimed that he never drove it hard, and from what he has told me, the guy was telling the truth. i think it has ~62k miles on it, the guy bought it with 48k on it, put on new tires, and the tires still have nipples on the sidewall. he's getting the stock rims powdercoated bronze. white, black interior, sunroof, touring, 5 speed.

 

Dale: thanks alot, ive done extensive researching so far, but its the tuners that have the most important stories to tell, numbers and figures only help me figure out which parts theoretically work best. As far as the ECU, its a big decision, and i dont think im going chipped because theres alot I want to do with ignition and fuel MAPs that id have to look at the charts to tune, and would rather do it that way! Also, I plan on running no more than 13psi. Definitely no more. I dont wanna cause serious upsets.

F-body power from the v6 is great. Its torquey as all hell, and really moves. The recessed engine gives it only 300lbs from a perfect weight ratio and even the stock DE carbon shocks combined with well done suspension geometry make it a great handling car out of the box. Sure, I could cam and port the snot out of it and make it fast, and make the suspension race worthy...or even drop the almighty LS1 in it! But still...its time for a change, and im a purist, so what can I say. I have 2 trucks, and now I need a new sports car. Power isnt everything. Power is perception

Trades? More than happy, I am 100% grade A looking for something thats not ratted out.

Btw: My birds stats: Black on Black, T-tops, PW, PL, PD, PDS, W68 sport package, P05 chrome rim package, W55 Monsoon Stereo package.

Mine was one of 3,000ish W68s made (last of the breed) and only 1 of 12 with my options!

 

Oh, and BRAND NEW tires (got em 2 days ago), new serpentine belt, and recently regrounded all the wires from the Pontiac dealer. Also, I converted her to the wonderful Royal Purple 10W-40 full synthetic. At just over 52K miles, this birds drivin hard and strong.

 

I don't think i'm going to part out this car, most likely sell it for what it's worth when it's got hte new clutch and plugs in, the body is perfect, never painted/wrecked/touched and every bolt i touch to do the clutch still has the paint on it and never touched, would be a shame to disect this fd for a v8 swap w/ only 60k original miles

prolly will sell and pick up a rolling chassis, profit should pay for the swap as well

 

If anyone knows anybody who has a 5-spd FD with a good record (no real color preferance as im gonna end up painting it white anyway) thats willing to look into a trade with me, be sure to send em my way!