3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002) 1993-2002 Discussion including performance modifications and Technical Support Sections.
Sponsored by:

Rust on Driveshaft

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Jul 3, 2006 | 10:23 AM
  #1  
HDP's Avatar
HDP
Thread Starter
A Fistfull of Dollars!
Tenured Member: 20 Years
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 5,322
Likes: 6
From: HuntsVEGAS, AL
Rust on Driveshaft

Yesterday while removing my driveshaft it began to rain and it got a little wet. I noticed this morning the end that slips into the tranny has some flash rust on it. Is this going to be a problem? If so, how should I address it? TIA.
Reply
Old Jul 3, 2006 | 10:32 AM
  #2  
Mahjik's Avatar
Mr. Links
Tenured Member 20 Years
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 27,595
Likes: 43
From: Kansas City, MO
Originally Posted by HDP
Yesterday while removing my driveshaft it began to rain and it got a little wet. I noticed this morning the end that slips into the tranny has some flash rust on it. Is this going to be a problem? If so, how should I address it? TIA.
Shouldn't be a problem. However, if it's bugging you; just lightly sand it, then lightly coat it with some tranny oil (just rub it on with a rag). Then install.
Reply
Old Jul 3, 2006 | 10:43 AM
  #3  
yuichiror's Avatar
Rotary Freak
Tenured Member 10 Years
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 2,506
Likes: 0
From: Hampton, Va
Fine steel wool is good also. Should just take off the rust. Heck, it'll even shiny it up!
Reply
Old Jul 3, 2006 | 11:19 AM
  #4  
dgeesaman's Avatar
Moderator
Tenured Member: 20 Years
Liked
Loved
iTrader: (8)
 
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 12,313
Likes: 27
From: Hershey PA
Do not sand the surface where the seal rubs. Use the least aggressive method possible there - maybe just wd-40 and a coarse paper towel. If you must use steel wool, make sure to move it in a radial direction only so the scratches make circles.

The reason I say this is that any surface scratches can become oil leak paths. Diagonal surface finish marks will draw oil out under the seal lip.

Dave
Reply
Old Jul 3, 2006 | 11:25 PM
  #5  
cewrx7r1's Avatar
Eye In The Sky
Tenured Member: 25 Years
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 7,941
Likes: 133
From: In A Disfunctional World
Dapdas
Reply
Old Jul 4, 2006 | 01:58 AM
  #6  
vtecwho??'s Avatar
Full Member
Tenured Member 05 Years
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 140
Likes: 0
From: Saltillo, MS
try some real fine emory cloth, like everyone else said be careful and dont remove to much metal
Reply
Old Jul 4, 2006 | 03:33 AM
  #7  
RotaryEvolution's Avatar
Sharp Claws
Tenured Member 15 Years
iTrader: (30)
 
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 5,107
Likes: 50
From: Central Florida
Originally Posted by dgeesaman
Do not sand the surface where the seal rubs. Use the least aggressive method possible there - maybe just wd-40 and a coarse paper towel. If you must use steel wool, make sure to move it in a radial direction only so the scratches make circles.

The reason I say this is that any surface scratches can become oil leak paths. Diagonal surface finish marks will draw oil out under the seal lip.

Dave

from a sceintifical point of view yes this does sound best but in reality it is less than necessary. the oil seal will burnish the metal and create it's own sealing groove by polishing the metal, you can often see these grooves when you look at circular seal surfaces on flywheels, driveshafts, yokes, etc...

preferably you want a fine grit sandpaper or emery cloth or steel wool to keep the seal from wearing too much when breaking itself in again, if the surface is too rough it may cause the seal to lose too much seal tension and leak when it finally does break in.
Reply
Old Jul 4, 2006 | 10:32 AM
  #8  
Sgtblue's Avatar
Urban Combat Vet
Tenured Member: 20 Years
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
iTrader: (16)
 
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 12,160
Likes: 983
From: Mid-west
800 to 1000 grit wet sand paper. It'll probably be smoother than before. Wipe it dry and oil.
Reply




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:45 PM.