DrFelixFig

Hey all,

I just made a post asking the great old never able to be answer "what's it worth" or "what would you pay" for a car question, tis a dumb question I know and very subjective.

Now...I'm wondering for all of you that have bought rollers, or cars with blown motors, what you've learned from the experience? When did you do it, what did you pay, etc. Most important, what would you do differently if you could go back in time; never do it again I'm hoping is not an answer, or NOT buy that hunk of junk! From missing parts upon reassembly to bad trans syncros, to mouse houses, to anything that you think is useful to me, a dude who is thinking of buying a roller FD (think it's got a trans, but no engine it's looking like) or others out there thinking of doing the same.

I pretty pumped about getting this car, but also don't want to fall into the mistake of losing interest, and just having it sitting "in an automotive cocoon" like Lane Meyer's Camaro a year or two from now. But that's a different issue altogether.

gracer7-rx7

iTrader: (16)

Since you are new to the car, a stripped out car with just a trans and you intend to make it a road going vehicle, my advice is to pass on it. The unknown costs is a huge risk. There are many complete, driveable FDs around at bargain basement prices right now. There is no cost savings in trying to rebuild a stripped out roller.

My first FD, I bought with a blown motor. It was freshly repainted and the interior was in great shape and had ~120k miles, had a Power FC, a small SMIC, Fluidyne radiator and Koni shocks. I paid $9k for it back in 2001. I had a local shop do a motor rebuild and install a new clutch. I was into the car for $14k. Beyond the motor, it also needed a wiring harness and the turbos could have used replacement. So add $800 parts cost for the harness and xxxx amount for eventual turbo replacement to the final budget for a great, streetable car.

Or just buy a car in already great condition for somewhere between $10-20k and be done with it. By the time you add all the above costs, I probably could have bought a mint low mileage, stock car. It all depends on what your eventual goals are with the car and your budget.

DrFelixFig

I guess I should clarify...might not be a "roller" this thing might be complete car minus the engine-

djseven

iTrader: (56)

Be careful not to start to many threads, that will get you ignored in a hurry here. People will want you to search, plus you will gain a lot of info that way. You can jump from thread to thread reading for months on here and not stop learning.

This is my advice, when you build the engine, build it right. Use ALS or RA 2mm seals, dont waste time or money on others. Not saying they arent capable, they just arent as forgiving. Replace all the small stuff and dont shoot for 800 hp and custom wiring right off the bat. Actually enjoy the car for what it was intended to do for a while and then make your decision on which route to take.

DrFelixFig

Thanks for the advice...not trying to be a thread *****, but as a long-time member of another forum, if you don't know the "speak" it's hard to find info (this is me making excuses and being impatient). I'm sure my skillz at this will improve tho!

And if I buy the car I'm looking at tonight, the motor will get a mild hop-up. I'd want it to be faster than stock for sure, but sacrificing reliability/driveability for horsepower is not what I'd do. And since this would be my first rotary build, much research and careful planning would certainly pay off in the end, with a great performing, reliable/affordable Supercar.

djseven

iTrader: (56)

Here is some more advice I offer for your rebuild. Keep the stock ports, or stay with a very very conservative light port. The car will idle much better, not stink as bad at idle and just be more pleasurable to drive. Everyone goes around getting "monster" street ports or even better the ones who run bridgeports and stick with the stock twins or a small single. Plenty of power can be made on the stock ports and you will see very minimal gains with port work on the stock twins.

Replace every seal/spring/bearing in the engine if your budget allows it.

Go with an ACT street/strip clutch, they hold up great well into the 400+ hp range and are comfortable to drive.

Definitely go with a water/meth kit. I love the AEM kit you can pick up on ebay for $350 shipped. Comes with everything you need to install and includes a dummy light to let you know that the system is working.

Support your vendors here on the forum as much as possible and avoid your local dealership.
Become familiar with Ray Crowe at Malloy Mazda(search for the phone number there).

While the engine is out install an oil pan brace or aftermarket pan, a leaky pan is a pain to fix once installed.


Replace or delete the Fuel Pulsation Dampner.

Port the factory wastegate if you plan to stick with the stock turbos.

Install a FC 89-91 thermoswitch in place of your factory thermoswitch.

If you discover a tip or good deal you havent seen posted before share it with the forum.

Search DaleClark on the forum and enjoy reading his posts, lots of info broken down where anyone can understand it.

DrFelixFig

Thanks a ton DJ...I appreciate the advice. I'm sure my anxiousness and post-happy fingers are from me feeling quite a bit nervous about this. I really should NOT buy this car. Can I afford it? Yes...mostly, but just feel a little unsure of the decision. But if I can get it on the cheap, and it looks good to great bodywise/rustwise, it would be a happy day for a guy who sold his favorite car to pay for college (sucks to go back as an adult and have to pay your own way!).

Did some searching and found some JDM vendors that I'm sure you all know about with engines for around a grand with all accessories! I would for sure rebuild prior to install, or run it for the summer and then pull at year's end. But since it's already July...I think it would be buy motor, rebuild...plan to drive next spring/summer.

Juan

iTrader: (28)

When you look at it, take some pictures of it and post them here for us to see. We'll be able to give you a better idea of what it will cost to fix and how much trouble you're in for. Are you going to be doing your own work or outsourcing it to a mechanic?

I was/am in a similar situation as you but with a totally different car: An E34 BMW. I've only owned RX-7s since getting my license and piston engines were foreign to me (pretty ***-backwards if you ask me). I bought my Bimmer from a friend who lost interest in it. The body was straight, needed paint, interior was in decent shape but the engine was torn apart and in boxes. The car is somewhat rare being 1 of 541 cars that were built in 1991. I didnt know anything about piston engines or BMWs and now I had one with the engine taken apart. To make a long story short, I had to learn a whole lot of things in a short period of time and by the time I finished fixing the car (I did most of the work myself), I could have bought a nicer version of my car for less money and had less headaches but with more time/money at my disposal. BTW, this BMW is chump change compared to an FD.

It's usually a better idea to buy one thats running well than to take over someone's abandoned project but theres always exceptions.

DrFelixFig

I'm in total agreement on taking over an abandoned project...not ideal, not what I want but the motor's out already :-)! All work (at least that's the plan) on this car will be done by me.

I bought my old FD with a brand new motor and it had oil leaks which I knew about when I bought it, but since the motor was done at Mazda, and I confirmed a 12mo/12kmile warranty I figured I'd get it fixed for free. It's a long story but it got fixed only after I turned into super ******** and went back three times and had to have a face-face chat with the shop's ace rotary guy. The effing dude at one point was basically trying to tell me that gravity functioned differently around my car. My point is, that because of this, and that I've worked as a dealer service manager for 10+ years (thank god no longer) that I know what a good mechanic is...me...and that when your paying someone to work on your car, they, the good techs are few and far between. Said another way, I want it done right, so I'll have to do it.

DrFelixFig

Indeed, but it is after all a wankel...and we all know when not properly cared for have a short lifespan! To me it would be a bonus to know that all the engine internals are fresh

asianguy02

iTrader: (4)

there is nothing more expensive than a cheap RX7

rotaryinspired

iTrader: (3)

You can look at the thread I have created. It is titled 93 VR ressurection. I just bought a roller and I am doing the same thing. The difference is that I have built quite a few rotaries and I am very familiar w/ them. I ordered a JDM block w/ tranny and tore it down today. I would be more than happy to share my experiences via PM.

Brad

arghx

iTrader: (3)

This.

DrFelixFig

Thanks Brad...very cool of you.

Well I called the seller last night after texting throughout the day to confirm, get an address, et cetera, and the dude told me after I was about 25 minutes into my trip to see him that he decided to keep the car due to thinking he'd take such a loss. The guy gave me a little more info and it sounds like the typical story with a car/project like this. Looks like it broke 5 years ago (not good at ALL) was stored outside for 4 years in Florida, paint got faded on one side during this hibernation. Then this guy bought it, paid WAY too much IMO (said $8k! woof!) and then had a buddy pull the motor and trans and then promptly did nothing else other than pull a few more parts off it here and there.

When I learned this stuff, just after leaving and starting to talk to him on the phone, it sounded to me like a car I'd pay $3-$4k for tops. Moreover, it sounded like an effing mess and certainly was not taken apart in a methodical way...thus, lost fasteners, lost this, lost that. Or, not a project I would have wanted to take on. This sounds like a mess that someone started, that could have been an easy repair/rebirth had the person followed through.

So...looks like the timing was not right and I'll keep looking, not too hard, until I find the right FD to be my next RX-7. It will show it's face sooner or later. Who knows maybe it just blew an apex seal and the owner is listing on CL as I write this!

rotaryinspired

iTrader: (3)

Good luck. I hope you find the right one.

Supernaut

iTrader: (83)

Woah freaking Shakespeare here!! Nice one.

DrFelixFig

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...7#post10143087

...and now it's being offered here to all of you!

Given what I've learned about this car, and generally about the market for used FDs that are low mileage and...bonus...RUN!!!-...this thing seems like a $3-$4k car to me.

I sure as hell do NOT feel too very interested in it. But at $3k maybe...just maybe I'd buy it.