dguy

iTrader: (8)

Have you pressure tested your intake? I've seen 0 trigger sensor failures outside of physical impacts and since we're talking about an Adaptronic I'd be more suspect of that unless you've put a third part oscilloscope on the trigger and can confirm its garbage (I trust software scopes as far as I can throw them for anything past trigger pattern confirmation and basic arming voltages)

billyboy

Had one here that had the stainless steel cover eaten after the bearing stack collapsed and it still worked.

Seems odd unless they're totally flat chat tuning, appears not much in the way of actual troubleshooting has taken place....remind me to avoid WA rotary specialists! I though the previous Joker's dad over there ran a rotary workshop, but wasn't cheap?

Slides

Might be worth trying to get Bumpstart to look at it. Are you on Ausrotary or the WA rotary page on Facebook?

wesleykww

Turbo is serviced. Crank sensor has been replaced. Car is still the same ffs. Any idea what other sensor that might be giving the wrong info to the ECU?

This is frustrating

dguy

iTrader: (8)

No, because you're not actually providing enough information to be given answers past throwing **** at a wall.

Start tapping pressures into other parts of the manifold, look at EMAP, observe turbine speed. These are all things that you and your tuner will benefit from doing.

scotty305

iTrader: (2)

I think you've already been given a lot of good advice. Here are some questions that I haven't seen you answer.
1. Have you ruled out boost leaks?
2. Have you ruled out intake restrictions?
3. Have you verified ignition timing with a timing light?
4. Do you have another wideband besides the one that indicated full rich on both dyno charts?
5. Did you try any partial throttle runs to see if it behaves at light load or lower boost?


Note that none of those suggestions are rotary-specific, any experienced dyno shop should be able to help with them. The only rotary-specific things a tuner needs to remember are you can't let it knock or overheat or run lean because the internals are similar to a weak piston engine not a strong one or an upgraded one. Set up engine protections for lean-AFR and low fuel pressure if the ECU has them. Keep air & coolant & oil temperatures safe. Keep boost low, personally I would use a 7-8psi wastegate spring if you plan to run 14-16psi max boost. Stay conservative on the ignition timing because you can't let it knock, set safe values for the ignition split / trailing coils because you can't let it knock, and be careful with the secondary injectors staging (and test it at light loads) because you can't let it run lean. And for goodness sake start with part-throttle pulls before full-throttle pulls when you dyno any car, rotary or piston.

wesleykww

Yes everything has been checked over from all the suggestions above. Everything seems fine.
Still, no luck putting down power and facing the same exact issue.

Will start stripping parts to check all over once more and try my luck.

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

If the engine has good compression, you can rule out the engine side of things.

This is a fundamental problem of either not getting air in or not getting exhaust out. Something is restricting things. You may need to take everything apart and verify this. I have seen people chasing their tail with no/low boost and it was a shop rag stuffed into the intercooler that was causing the problems. Or a collapsed catalytic converter or failed muffler.

You may also see if there's another shop that can give a second opinion or at least put a fresh set of eyes on the problem.

Most likely this will be a a VERY simple fix but it's finding that one problem (ie, the rag in the intercooler) that will be the issue.

Also this is something ANY SHOP can do, this is NOT a rotary issue at this point.

Dale

Howard Coleman

iTrader: (6)

lots of good suggestions.

just a few ideas.

while it is possible you have a micro boost leak, it is not possible that a boost leak could be the cause. even a 50 hp boost leak on the dyno is easily heard.

you say the egts are high. what are the numbers? how many probes? where are they located? we need to see a line graph of the egts and rpm.

what plugs? heat range. what do the plugs look like. that would be one of the first things to read. where does the burn locate on the ground straps?

post a dynojet pull with zero smoothing.

post a picture of your tubo manifold.

post a log/graph of one of your runs.

when you are looking for 300 hp (!) you are generally looking for a restriction. that much of a power discount coming from a mistune would cause egts way over 2000 F and would break your motor.

once you solve problem ONE:

find a way to keep your turbo from sucking hot air directly from the radiator and put a proper airfilter on it.

i see no mention of AI? a simple system is essential and all you need.

i also recommend you find a really good remote tuner for your ecu.

good luck

wesleykww

Hey guys, thanks again for all the suggestions.

I have managed to rule out that 1 of the secondary injector is faulty, though they were all checked and serviced before the build.
One of the 1600c is maxed out at 40% duty cycle and once it is past 40% the injector started choking.
Luckily all rotors compressions are still very good.
Finally some progress!

Will proceed to replace all secondary injectors.
Currently looking at Bosch EV14 1600cc from Pac performance.

Cheers

gmonsen

I suspect that, if there's not some simple mechanical mistake, this still looks like a timing related issue. Have you hooked up an oscilloscope?