RHD Diagnostic Module
#1
RHD Diagnostic Module
I have been troubleshooting a battery drain issue (about 200mA) for a while now and narrowed it down to something tied to the EGI fuse. I pulled the EGI main relay and that did nothing. Based on others' past issues and some advice, I suspected the Diagnostic Module; once I went to take it out and inspect it, I was unable to find it though. I checked under the drivers side and passengers side dash around the tunnel as well as near the brake pedal which is where the JDM service manuals say it should be. Is there another location I should check? Is it possible I don't have one and that something else tied to that fuse is the issue? Car's a 95 btw.
Last edited by atsugiT2; 07-30-23 at 07:22 PM.
#4
I'm unclear wether you're referring to the little square shaped black diagnostic box in the engine bay that you can jumper for various tests or the larger airbag module with a yellow label on it.
There were a few years where JDM FD's had no airbag, so no airbag module. In the early 90's,
I think. If you have an airbag module, an airbag light to the left of your ABS light would come on when you turn the key on, if the bulb wasn't removed. It's powered by the airbag module.
I heard that some of the early 90's examples that did, had airbag modules mounted over the transmission tunnel behind the stereo instead of screwed to the side of the tunel like USDM models. I can't confirm any of this however.
The next easiest way to check wether your car had airbags is to look for a blue shielded harness and paired orange and blue connectors. All other harnesses had a black shield I think.
They would be easy to spot beside the steering column (to the airbag) or along a fender edge inside the engine bay with the orange blue connector just ahead of the firewall. There would be two more between fenders and fender liners, that you can peek to verify by uncrewing the philips head fender fasteners. above wheels. Some people pull their airbag systems, but that would be the next quickest way to check.
There were a few years where JDM FD's had no airbag, so no airbag module. In the early 90's,
I think. If you have an airbag module, an airbag light to the left of your ABS light would come on when you turn the key on, if the bulb wasn't removed. It's powered by the airbag module.
I heard that some of the early 90's examples that did, had airbag modules mounted over the transmission tunnel behind the stereo instead of screwed to the side of the tunel like USDM models. I can't confirm any of this however.
The next easiest way to check wether your car had airbags is to look for a blue shielded harness and paired orange and blue connectors. All other harnesses had a black shield I think.
They would be easy to spot beside the steering column (to the airbag) or along a fender edge inside the engine bay with the orange blue connector just ahead of the firewall. There would be two more between fenders and fender liners, that you can peek to verify by uncrewing the philips head fender fasteners. above wheels. Some people pull their airbag systems, but that would be the next quickest way to check.
Last edited by Blk 93; 07-30-23 at 10:16 PM.
#5
Thanks. You're correct that some FDs from Japan don't have it at all. Verified with my friend out in Japan and his is the same.
Anyway, I ended up solving my problem with the help of some of the PFC Tuning group guys. To summarize for the next guy:
I had a draw of about 200mA (300 with the door open[ignition light]). Battery would die after about a week. Pulled all the fuses in the cabin and the draw remained constant. Started on the ones in the engine bay near the battery and found that the EGI fuse was the culprit. According to schematics, the white and green wire from there goes a couple places: the alternator, the EGI main relay, and the airbag diagnostics module(if you have one). Pulled the EGI main relay and the draw remained, found that I didn't have a diagnostic module, and then unplugged the L/S plug from the alternator and that stopped the drain. With some advice from the group, I found that the wires were reversed on this plug. I re-pinned them and this fixed the issue. This also fixed my higher than normal running voltage (~15v)(now down to 14.1v).
Also worth mentioning is that my car would die after about 4 hours when I first got it. Swapped to a PFC and that got it to about a week. I wonder if having that high voltage running through it for so long damaged the stock ECU.. Anyway, I hope this helps someone down the line.
Anyway, I ended up solving my problem with the help of some of the PFC Tuning group guys. To summarize for the next guy:
I had a draw of about 200mA (300 with the door open[ignition light]). Battery would die after about a week. Pulled all the fuses in the cabin and the draw remained constant. Started on the ones in the engine bay near the battery and found that the EGI fuse was the culprit. According to schematics, the white and green wire from there goes a couple places: the alternator, the EGI main relay, and the airbag diagnostics module(if you have one). Pulled the EGI main relay and the draw remained, found that I didn't have a diagnostic module, and then unplugged the L/S plug from the alternator and that stopped the drain. With some advice from the group, I found that the wires were reversed on this plug. I re-pinned them and this fixed the issue. This also fixed my higher than normal running voltage (~15v)(now down to 14.1v).
Also worth mentioning is that my car would die after about 4 hours when I first got it. Swapped to a PFC and that got it to about a week. I wonder if having that high voltage running through it for so long damaged the stock ECU.. Anyway, I hope this helps someone down the line.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
wonder1and
3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002)
1
06-23-03 07:31 AM