Rewrap Harness
05-25-12, 08:19 AM
#2
You are in luck!! This is great oppertunity for you to do something you aren't good at. Now be an enthusiast and man up 
.
Re-wraping a harness is extremely easy. But it can be intimidating for someone who doesn't keep things organized. All you have to do is follow these simple steps, and you are home free.
Tools:
Razor blade
Electrical tape (2-3 roles)
Zip ties
Wiring loom 1/2" & 1"
Steps:
1. Remove the harness (you would have had to do this anyway, so no excuse here)
2. Take a razor and slowly cut away at the old tape
3. Remove the wiring loom
4. As you remove the loom, place a zip tie around the harness wires every 6 inches, and at every wiring branch from the main piece. This keeps the same shape as the original harness. Now you have a wiring harness that is bare wire, but in the exact same shape as it was.
5. Now re-loom the harness. Cut small lengths for each branch. Cut a long length for the main piece. The loom slides right on.
6. Wrap the loom with electrical tape. Put extra wraps around the joints of the branches where the loom meets. As you get to the end of the branches where the connectors are, wrap the wire up and add a small zip tie to keep things tight.
DONE!!
.Re-wraping a harness is extremely easy. But it can be intimidating for someone who doesn't keep things organized. All you have to do is follow these simple steps, and you are home free.
Tools:
Razor blade
Electrical tape (2-3 roles)
Zip ties
Wiring loom 1/2" & 1"
Steps:
1. Remove the harness (you would have had to do this anyway, so no excuse here)
2. Take a razor and slowly cut away at the old tape
3. Remove the wiring loom
4. As you remove the loom, place a zip tie around the harness wires every 6 inches, and at every wiring branch from the main piece. This keeps the same shape as the original harness. Now you have a wiring harness that is bare wire, but in the exact same shape as it was.
5. Now re-loom the harness. Cut small lengths for each branch. Cut a long length for the main piece. The loom slides right on.
6. Wrap the loom with electrical tape. Put extra wraps around the joints of the branches where the loom meets. As you get to the end of the branches where the connectors are, wrap the wire up and add a small zip tie to keep things tight.
DONE!!
05-25-12, 06:24 PM
#5
+1 Nice write up. Another option instead of the split loom is cable sleeving. mcmaster.com sell a lot of different types in a lot of different sizes. When I redid my harness I used fiberglass coated sleeving to help keep out some of heat, mostly where is goes over the exhaust.
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05-25-12, 09:59 PM
#8
Personally, I would add loom or the sleeving. The more heat protection the better. As wires see constant heat, the shielding will become brittle and crack. Of course this exposes bare wire allowing shorts & other nasty things to happen.
If you have ever troubleshot a shorting harness you will know its a freaking nightmare and time consuming. This is also a great time to check continuity on all those connectors as well. Ray does sell individual connectors as the originals crack and break down.
05-25-12, 11:40 PM
#9
Oh he does sell individual connectors? I rather not buy a brand new one since im going to rewrap it anyways. Whats the materials that you all suggest I use? So rewrap harness with high temp silicone and add wire loom? XLR do I keep those zipties on when I rewrap? Like under the silicome?
Im not good with electronics so how do I check the continuity?
Thanks, I think ill tackle this myself.
Im not good with electronics so how do I check the continuity?
Thanks, I think ill tackle this myself.
05-26-12, 06:30 AM
#10
I used the silicone fusion tape. In my area the local chain hardware stores all carry it. It's great in the high temp enviroment and seals well against moisture. But it doesn't tolerate rubbing against other things, so you need to cover it with something....friction tape, loom oover etc.
Just get a cheap multi-meter from Sears to check continuity.
IIRC, IR Performance sold the injector pig-tails.
FWIW...if you haven't removed the harness from the engine yet, I found a quick spray of PB helped alot with connectors that are stuck on from years of heat and dirt. It's electronics friendly and they damn near fell off afterward. It avoided the temptation to pry them loose which frequently breaks them.
Just get a cheap multi-meter from Sears to check continuity.
IIRC, IR Performance sold the injector pig-tails.
FWIW...if you haven't removed the harness from the engine yet, I found a quick spray of PB helped alot with connectors that are stuck on from years of heat and dirt. It's electronics friendly and they damn near fell off afterward. It avoided the temptation to pry them loose which frequently breaks them.
05-26-12, 11:29 AM
#11
Nope
IMO, I would start with a known good harness. In fact, I did that myself. I ordered a new emissions harness, took off the stock wrapping and re-wrapped it using something "more modern" (I do practice what I preach). You end up with something you know works and will last.
IMO, I would start with a known good harness. In fact, I did that myself. I ordered a new emissions harness, took off the stock wrapping and re-wrapped it using something "more modern" (I do practice what I preach). You end up with something you know works and will last.
05-27-12, 02:01 PM
#15
i rewrap every engine harness unless they are in excellenty condition upon removal.
i found it's easiest to just wrap over the original looming with cloth friction tape, since it is self sealing, weather and heat resistant, cheap and easy to get at most hardware stores. i've also had nothing but good results using it on harnesses that i removed a number of years later and the harness looked as good as it was when i put it in.
reason i wrap over the original looming is easy to explain: unecessary pulling, bending and tugging on the harness usually results in broken or frayed wiring. the friction tape acts as a splint to keep the wiring from moving excessively while you manipulate it back onto the engine. time is money, but if you want to be more thorough then completely redoing the harness isn't a bad idea, i just can't devote a full day to a $100 at max job.
i would offer to do it but it's really not worth spending $100 to ship to and from just to wrap a harness that anyone can do.
shielding will not affect a continuity test so yes, you can check it while it is out.
i found it's easiest to just wrap over the original looming with cloth friction tape, since it is self sealing, weather and heat resistant, cheap and easy to get at most hardware stores. i've also had nothing but good results using it on harnesses that i removed a number of years later and the harness looked as good as it was when i put it in.
reason i wrap over the original looming is easy to explain: unecessary pulling, bending and tugging on the harness usually results in broken or frayed wiring. the friction tape acts as a splint to keep the wiring from moving excessively while you manipulate it back onto the engine. time is money, but if you want to be more thorough then completely redoing the harness isn't a bad idea, i just can't devote a full day to a $100 at max job.
i would offer to do it but it's really not worth spending $100 to ship to and from just to wrap a harness that anyone can do.
shielding will not affect a continuity test so yes, you can check it while it is out.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 05-27-12 at 02:06 PM.
05-27-12, 03:31 PM
#19
don't have a link, it's just called "friction tape" which is usually right next to general purpose electrical tape. orchard supply hardware in california has it as well as some other chain hardware stores.
a picture of the plug would be helpful, without guessing.
a picture of the plug would be helpful, without guessing.
05-27-12, 03:43 PM
#20
After pulling my harness and seeing the poor condition it was in I purchased a "low milage" I am considering making harnesses I am an electrician I am fully comfortable with doing so and have all tools to do so I know just about all of us would like a new harness wrapped in heat relfected tape as long as we can get the connectors
05-27-12, 03:53 PM
#21
some of the connectors are basically nonexistent, some found from various suppliers and others can only be bought in bulk(like crate size by the thousands).
some if you do not have terminating ends like the smog pump connectors, you can simply replace both ends of the connector and replace it with something more common like GM/Delphi weatherpak connectors which you can just about find at grocery stores.
some if you do not have terminating ends like the smog pump connectors, you can simply replace both ends of the connector and replace it with something more common like GM/Delphi weatherpak connectors which you can just about find at grocery stores.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 05-27-12 at 03:56 PM.
05-27-12, 04:09 PM
#23
sometimes i just get too busy to respond and of course replying to month old messages is like calling someone back in that same timeframe.
there is actually a couple of people who do harness tune ups on the forum for a few bills, i couldn't find enough suppliers to feel comfortable doing it for people without knowing whether i could salvage them or not.
there is actually a couple of people who do harness tune ups on the forum for a few bills, i couldn't find enough suppliers to feel comfortable doing it for people without knowing whether i could salvage them or not.
05-27-12, 04:51 PM
#24
Looking at everything more closely looks like quite a bit is hurt on this harness. Perhaps will send it off to get patched up. Heres what I found.
This is the connector with the broken off wire
The red wire in this pic doesnt go to anything and im trying to figure out where, Its on the same break in the harness as that green connector but doesnt go to it.
This connector has wires cut
Some of the parts of the harness has exposed wires but dont appear to be broken. I assume I have to take off all the tape to do continuity test. SR Motorsports is close by, maybe ill have them look at it. I might just have Manny redo the harness for me.
This is the connector with the broken off wire
The red wire in this pic doesnt go to anything and im trying to figure out where, Its on the same break in the harness as that green connector but doesnt go to it.
This connector has wires cut
Some of the parts of the harness has exposed wires but dont appear to be broken. I assume I have to take off all the tape to do continuity test. SR Motorsports is close by, maybe ill have them look at it. I might just have Manny redo the harness for me.
05-27-12, 05:02 PM
#25
1st pic is of the smog pump clutch connector, 3-4 no idea can't see the wire, last pic is of the knock sensor connector.
you can pop the pins out of the connectors with a small pick and heat shrink over the breaks in the insulator without too much effort.
you can pop the pins out of the connectors with a small pick and heat shrink over the breaks in the insulator without too much effort.