i thought that was supposed to stay on?

 

mine started doing the same thing after installing the power fc. it usually goes away after a few minutes but starts again everytime i turn on the car or the headlights. oh and it also goes away when i turn on the a/c.

 

mines does the same **** too...so no real answers yet huh.,,,,,

 

yeah mine does the same...when at idle... but not until its warmed up....and it jumps from 100-1000 rpm back and forth.... and sounds like it wants to die! lol and if I hold the throttle at about 1500rpm the tack will start to dip and the motor sputters a bit....

 

not to hijack, but how do i determine if my LIM gasket is bad? just check if its cracked?? (googling parts now) ive been having this SAME issue, with the idle having a mind of its own, usually stays at 1.5k for 3 seconds then drops down for another three than back up. sometimes variates, but ALWAYS is "hunting" ill be checking the LIM gasket tomorrow, as well as trying the water temp sensor and purchasing a can of carb clean.. im excited =]

 

yeah not to thread jack as well, but I seem to have the same idle on cold startups:

1. the aws will kick in
2. it will idle back down to 1500 rpm
3. then it will idle down to 1000 rpm and jump up to 1200 rpm then down to 1000 rpm over and over

Im still running pretty much stock everything, except for intake and exhaust.

 

^ Man either disable AWS or start the car in gear to manually disable it. That was a bad idea by mazda.

On the idle hunting I may have a similar issue (yet much less pronounced) on my FD as well, but never really noticed it until I read this thread. Just thought it was a characteristic of the Rotary. Well time to pull out the service manual and get to reading myself.

 

in everything ive seen is normal for it to BOUNCE like - bwup bwup bwup bwup, kinda sputtery., but to actually rev, def. not

 

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/fixed-my-idle-problems-backfiring-bucking-more-170731/

 

really, I didnt really know that the aws system was detrimental to the car. I usually just let it do that.

On a different subject from this thread, why is the aws so bad?

 

the problems in that thread (mr links thread) dont seem to be like the ones this person here is explaining. none the less.... its ALL a process of elimanation anywyas... isnt it"?

 

Yea Im running a PFC and also have the idling proble. I usually turn the ac on for a min the turn it back off and its fine. Ive talked to a few people and about and heard the same thing, " its the pfc ".

 

Not to hijack the thread, but to 20Bs question, the AWS was intended by mazda to be a way to quickly bring the cats up to temp to help emissions out.

The downside, is that you are automatically revving your car to ~2500-3000 rpms on a cold start. That is just excess wear and tear on the car for the sake of emissions (must have had Cali in mind....mazda....)

 

lol... lawl, silly mazda

 

This is simply misinformation and I don't want people to read this and get the wrong idea. That post was written in 2004, when there was not as much info around about the PFC. The guy in the post has everything mixed up--if you read what he says closely, there is very little difference between what the PFC is reading and his multimeter. If anything, the values in the PFC are what matter, because that is what the PFC uses to determine enrichment or fuel cut from the opening and closing of the throttle plates.

"WITH MULTIMETER
Wire Closed Open
3F 1.085v 5.02v
3G 0.491v 4.35v"

3F = narrow range TPS. If you read the PFC manual, pin 3F is actually VTA2 in the commander display. The acceptable range is .75-1.25 closed, 4.8 - 5.0 WOT.

3G = full range TPS. If you read the PFC manual, pin 3G is actually VTA1 in the commander display. The acceptable range is .1 - .7 closed, 4.2 - 4.6 WOT .

Now let's see what his PFC readings were:

"WITH PFC
Wire Closed Open
VTA1 0.47v 4.34v
VTA2 1.06v 4.97v"

surprise surprise, his TPS is in spec! He just confused VTA1 and VTA2. There is a slight voltage drop to the ECU, but nothing that matters. He even comments "I had done a quick search and never heard of people getting readings this far off." That's because he misunderstood his own diagnostic testing.

See the service manual page F-158 and the PFC manual, you'll see exactly what I mean.

I mentioned in another thread up right now that I've been working on this PFC idle issue a lot on a friend's FD. It is in fact a common enough problem. There is a lot of stuff to check, but the first and most important things to do (besides the TPS adjustment) are check the throttle cable tension (need 1 to 2 mm freeplay), and then remove the TB elbow and adjust the screw recessed between the bottom two studs for the elbow. Using a stubby flathead, turn the screw completely closed, then back it out half a turn.

Now get your PFC manual out, available on the Apex'i website (there are actually two different documents on there, one for installation and one which explains the commander functions). You are going to perform the idle learning procedure. Reset the PFC. After you select "initialize" from the etc menu, turn the key off and turn it back on, with the engine still off. Go to etc-->function select and turn off Idle IG control and O2 feedback, unless your car has a cat and airpump and needs to pass emissions. Then start the car up and follow the idle learn procedure in the manual.

If this doesn't help, you're out of luck unless you purchase a datalogit and learn how to tune yourself.

 

Mine did this and it was the throttle,it returns to far,i only found it when i was sat in the car and just touched the pedal whilst it was hunting,i put my foot under the pedal and lifted it and it started hunting again,worth checking,