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Temperatures in Houston are in the 30s and its been almost half a year later and man this battery is impressive. My car was sitting at the body shop for about 4 weeks not moving cause I dropped it off to get the a/c system fixed. My actuator motors went bad. Picked my car back up last week and car had no problem starting. Every morning since has been in the 30s-50s degree weather and starting power is still much stronger than a standard 50-60lb battery I had in it before. Again very impressed and yet to have any problems. Highly recommended!
Sorry to bump and maybe trigger some people. I understand both sides here and am considering the ATX-30 and trying to think of scenarios where it is a problem, to justify the cheaper cost.
My understanding is: The issue relates to triggering the RESTART function (which means battery is 0V / open circuit, to protect itself), and needing to press restart before it works again. So the only scenarios I can see this being an issue are:
1. Parked up, engine not running, high draw load (e.g headlights turned on), battery voltage dips beyond protection level, triggers the system and have to go turn battery on (Trunk, bins, under hood, wherever it is) - For me, mild inconvenience at worst (plus it saves the battery from becoming a paperweight)
2. Driving, healthy alternator, car voltage is always high, battery protection will never trigger (if it does, bigger problem as car's potential load is higher than alternator output)
3. Driving, unhealthy alternator (not putting out enough charge but still outputting "some"), car voltage may dip (and trip RESTART) car may/may not cut out
4. Driving, catastrophic alternator failure (belt snaps, total electronic failure), car is running purely off the battery until RESTART kicks in, when it does kick in, car dies suddenly (same as with any other battery but perhaps sooner on the smaller lithium battery)
Not trying to beat a dead-horse, just trying to consider my options
Sorry to bump and maybe trigger some people. I understand both sides here and am considering the ATX-30 and trying to think of scenarios where it is a problem, to justify the cheaper cost.
My understanding is: The issue relates to triggering the RESTART function (which means battery is 0V / open circuit, to protect itself), and needing to press restart before it works again. So the only scenarios I can see this being an issue are:
1. Parked up, engine not running, high draw load (e.g headlights turned on), battery voltage dips beyond protection level, triggers the system and have to go turn battery on (Trunk, bins, under hood, wherever it is) - For me, mild inconvenience at worst (plus it saves the battery from becoming a paperweight)
2. Driving, healthy alternator, car voltage is always high, battery protection will never trigger (if it does, bigger problem as car's potential load is higher than alternator output)
3. Driving, unhealthy alternator (not putting out enough charge but still outputting "some"), car voltage may dip (and trip RESTART) car may/may not cut out
4. Driving, catastrophic alternator failure (belt snaps, total electronic failure), car is running purely off the battery until RESTART kicks in, when it does kick in, car dies suddenly (same as with any other battery but perhaps sooner on the smaller lithium battery)
Not trying to beat a dead-horse, just trying to consider my options
My strong advice for you is to contact Antigravity directly - tech support - and they can answer all of your questions. They will recommend you use the ATX HD version or one of the Group 51-R batteries for all of the reasons listed in this thread. Good luck.
Sorry to bump and maybe trigger some people. I understand both sides here and am considering the ATX-30 and trying to think of scenarios where it is a problem, to justify the cheaper cost.
My understanding is: The issue relates to triggering the RESTART function (which means battery is 0V / open circuit, to protect itself), and needing to press restart before it works again. So the only scenarios I can see this being an issue are:
1. Parked up, engine not running, high draw load (e.g headlights turned on), battery voltage dips beyond protection level, triggers the system and have to go turn battery on (Trunk, bins, under hood, wherever it is) - For me, mild inconvenience at worst (plus it saves the battery from becoming a paperweight)
2. Driving, healthy alternator, car voltage is always high, battery protection will never trigger (if it does, bigger problem as car's potential load is higher than alternator output)
3. Driving, unhealthy alternator (not putting out enough charge but still outputting "some"), car voltage may dip (and trip RESTART) car may/may not cut out
4. Driving, catastrophic alternator failure (belt snaps, total electronic failure), car is running purely off the battery until RESTART kicks in, when it does kick in, car dies suddenly (same as with any other battery but perhaps sooner on the smaller lithium battery)
Not trying to beat a dead-horse, just trying to consider my options
Mostly correct. I'll just add that its any voltage spike/dip that could trip the restart function in the battery's software. If I remember right, 12.5V was the magic number that the AG docs said the restart logic would trigger.
The alternator is a big factor, but so are any sudden electrical loads since the battery is undersized compared to the OEM one, you have less buffer. One easy example would be blasting sweet tunes on an aftermarket subwoofer/sound system.
I got the ATX 30 HD and added restart and remote shut off functions with this: https://www.batterybrain.co.uk/produ...tery-brain-t3/
Found it on sale online for like $90. Works like a charm. I like that you can connect a switched power wire and the shut off is disabled while the engine is running. I got the remote version, there's also a wired version for a switch.
Description
New programmable Battery Brain Type T3, cut off 11.8V (23.7V) Offers manual or remote control reconnection.
New Unit Features
Disconnect voltage programmable between 9v-32v
Delay time programmable from 1 second to 600 seconds (Standard preset is 30 seconds)
Waterproof to IP66
Antitheft Feature
Suitable for all 12 volt and 24 volt systems including for example –
Road Transport Vehicles
Public Transport Vehicles
First Response Vehicles (Fire, Ambulance and Police)
Tractors
Recreational Vehicles / Motorhomes
Boats and Jetskis
Please note product is programmable only by distributor prior to dispatch
I got the ATX 30 HD and added restart and remote shut off functions with this: https://www.batterybrain.co.uk/produ...tery-brain-t3/
Found it on sale online for like $90. Works like a charm. I like that you can connect a switched power wire and the shut off is disabled while the engine is running. I got the remote version, there's also a wired version for a switch.
That's awesome, good find! Widens the net of options
That looks nice, just be careful about using it when the engine is running. I believe motorsports-grade battery isolators are supposed to be wired in such a way that when battery is cut, power to the ECU is cut so the engine stops running. This also ensures the alternator is cut so power doesn't spike and potentially damage your electrical system.
hey guys - sorry to bump this old(ish) thread but curious to your recommendations to what my challenge is.
I recently bought an Odyssey PC1200 and I thought it was going to fit in the back storage bins of the FD. ($285ish with 2 year warranty)
They don't fit by a quarter of an inch+ and am contemplating cutting up the bins and most likely buying a battery tray, adding to the cost.
I really dont want to cut up the bins for obvious reasons and I stumbled upon the recommendations for the ATX-30-HD here.
Questions is, is the ATX-30-HD comparable to the PC1200? And will it fit in our storage bins without need for modification (asides from straps/tie downs).
What's the warranty like and performance/reliability with it. I see the recommendations for the HD for our FD's and I think I will go with that vs the standard one.
I know how beloved the Odyssey's are but this is the first time i heard of a Li-Ion Battery for FD's and very interested.
I also think not having to cut up the bins and not buying a battery tray offsets the price difference.
I’m going on more than two years with my replacement ATX-30 (standard) and it still cranks over my LS3 no problem. The restart feature works great, I have left doors ajar and it shuts the battery down so it doesn’t drain.
For the record, my first ATX-30 died when I left my programmer plugged in and the restart feature didn’t work properly. It was replaced under warranty.
I’m going on more than two years with my replacement ATX-30 (standard) and it still cranks over my LS3 no problem. The restart feature works great, I have left doors ajar and it shuts the battery down so it doesn’t drain.
For the record, my first ATX-30 died when I left my programmer plugged in and the restart feature didn’t work properly. It was replaced under warranty.
Good to know - im getting sold on the ATX i think.
I actually forgot to mention that I'm also installing a camera system for when im driving.
It's a dash mount setup with rear camera, and I most likely wont connect the reverse feature as I think that adds a constant draw on power even when the car is not running.
Will this cause a drain on the battery by any chance?
Thanks for the help again!
I'm going to read this thread later tonight, but my understanding is with a V-Mount the ideal location the rear bin despite the ideal location in general being right in the engine bay with the least length wire possible. With these smaller batteries, if you have a v-mount, you have to sacrifice the A/C or power steering, correct? There's nothing that will sit in your engine bay and also retain all of these luxuries from what I understand right?
JP3 make a kit using an Odessy battery that fits in engine bay.
They state they aren't sure whether or not it will work with AC since the car they installed it in did not have A/C and it requires custom lines. On top of already having to bend the ac lines to make it fit with the v-mount, may be a lot of work. Wonder if others have done this, and what their experiencei s.
@Jatt I can tell you that the JP3 kit will not work with the Version 2 Greddy VMIC kit. My car is JDM so I don't have the air con issues, however, moving the dryer and accommodating the lines would be a hassle. It can be done though. The big difference in the Version 2 of the kit is how you route the relay box and the Intercooler Duct itself has a cutout to allow passage of the relay box's wire loom. The JP3 kit is high quality. It comes with brackets that also shift your intercooler over to the right had side of the car to accommodate the battery box. The GReddy kit already states you will have to relocate the battery. I was hoping not to have to do that, but it is inevitable since I want to run my a/c and have the version 2 kit.
How is it new vs the original ATX30? The original also included the restart feature, it looks exactly the same, has the same cranking amps and it's the same price.
How is it new vs the original ATX30? The original also included the restart feature, it looks exactly the same, has the same cranking amps and it's the same price.
Yeah it looks like the same battery. I may have to return mine and go with the HD lol. I was a fool and didn't read this entire thread.
Replied to it thinking I was going to later, but forgot to.
I spoke with Antigravity and they again said to go with the ATX30HD which I purchased for about $100 cheaper from Pegasus with free shipping. Also got the Z precision tray for the RH bin.
Last edited by twinturborx7pete; Jan 4, 2022 at 08:58 AM.
edit- any reason you went with RH bin specifically? I didn’t see the value of offsetting driver weight by putting it in the passenger bin given how light it already is. I prioritized convenience of being able to access the passenger bin and bought the driver side LH bin.
