fcfdfan

Okay, calling all Rotary Yodas for some advice and/or input on my mad scheme to revive A '93 FD.

First, I have Searched, but have not gotten any real answers on a few questions, which follow here.

Here's the scenario:

I'm going to perform the ATF Blow Out procedure on "Mr. Silver" (see Sig). The car hasn't run for about two years. I picked it up when the original owner lost compression on his factory reman motor right after the 30K warranty had passed. When the dealership threw another $13K (!!!) repair estimate at him he walked away. I spotted the car sitting in the back of the dealership about six months later and picked it up from the guy for next to nothing.

It appears the problem is that the trolls at the dealership did not replace his old, plugged cats when they installed the reman motor and new turbos at 130k. When I got it home, disgusting black mud oil oozed out of it. Heavy carbon build up!

I am interested to see if the motor is not really blown but if the low compression is just the result of a stuck apex seal(s) due to the engine being choked up with carbon from the plugged cats.

I've already been treating the engine with ATF and hand cranking it over with a socket and wrench. It really loosened up. You can actually feel and hear the apex seals compressing and releasing against the housings, and all the seals seem to offer equal resistance. There is also a consistent, equal amount of suction/expulsion through the open trailing sparkplug hole as I crank through. So I am hopeful that the seals are all in good condition! But we'll see...

Here are some of the things I plan to do for the ATF Blow Out:

1. I'm going to remove the plugged exhaust system for the Blow Out procedure.

What's the point of blowing it out into plugged cats? This brings me to my first question. If compression is restored, I'm gonna want to blast off down the freeway for some redline cleansing. What should I do for an exhaust? Should I simply core out the cats? They have to be replaced anyway. Or should I buy cheap an okay stock system someone has sitting around in their garage? SUGGESTIONS?


2. I'm going to trailer the car to the predetermined Blow Out Zone.

There are several reasons. First, Mr. Silver is in "Non-Operational" Mode with the DMV. Legally, it cannot even touch a public street. Second, I live in a townhouse development and the noise and smoke issues of the Blow Out will not fly with my neighbors.

It must be moved, and the legal and smart way to move it is to trailer it. Also, I've already scoped out the perfect Blow Out Zone ten minutes from my house at the dead end street, in an industrial area, by undeveloped land, with favorable winds, and where there will be no hassles from residents and cops.

So, WHO'S GOT A TRAILER I CAN USE?

I figure I'll trailer the car and hopefully then be able to get under the car and remove the exhaust system and do a bunch of other stuff to it, as follows:

To do this restoration right, shouldn't I drain the gas tank and fuel system of all the old gas?

I plan to flush the coolant system, too. That's a given. I'm also going to change the oil, oil filter, transmission oil, diff oil, all fuel filters, etc.

By the way, it's an automatic. If I keep the car I'm going to do a manual swap. If I don't keep it, and instead sell it, my restoration efforts will be selling points, even if the motor is actually blown and needs a rebuild.

In either case, isn't now also the right time to flush the brake system also?

And what do I do about the braking system? The rotors don't seem worn, but they are rusty. What's the proper and cheap fix for that at this point?

What other things might I do right now, since the list is so long anyway? Are there issues with the ABS system, oilpan sludge, oil metering or other oil lube systems I should check out?

I guess my biggest concern right now is the old gas in the gas tank and fuel lines.

What do the Yodas say about the old gas?

One last question -- about taking a compression check. I've done the search and am just more confused. WHO CAN LOAN THE MAZDA FACTORY COMPRESSION CHECKER? OR, IS THERE ANY RELIABLE WAY TO USE A PISTON ENGINE COMPRESSION CHECKER THAT WILL GIVE ME AN ACCURATE RESULT?

I thank all Yodas in advance for any advice, suggestions, input, or whatever.

MORE INFO TO COME

fcfdfan

Okay...13 Hours, 77 Reads, Zero Responses...

Earth to Yoda, Earth to Yoda...Yoda?

adam c

iTrader: (2)

Change the fluids, and filters.
Don't worry about the rusty brake calipers. The rust will come off after a few braking applications, if the brakes work.
If noise is not an issue, any exhaust will do, as long as it isn't clogged.

Sounds like you have things under control. You can rent a trailer if no one will loan you one. Good luck.

Tom93R1

iTrader: (2)

For compression, you can use a piston compression checker to tell if all 3 faces give the same compression. Install the pompression tester in the spark plug hole, have somebody crank the engine while you hold the pressure release valve open on the tester. This will cause the needle to pulse as the motor turns over. You are looking for 3 even pulses. Ignore the numbers, they dont mean much when doing this but at long as the pulses are all close you should be ok.

Definately drain the fuel, as you said 2 year old gas can be very bad.

For exhaust you at least want something coming off the turbos, even if it is a punched out pre-cat or a down pipe.

fcfdfan

Thanks adam c, you Cheap Bastard!

Okay, I still want to hear from more Yodas about the gasoline issue. Is the two-year-old gasoline in the system a problem, and how should I deal with it?

Thanks again in advance.

Nat

clayne

Yoda,

Wait until you see how much smoke the ATF generates. You'll be amazed. I wouldn't be surprised if the cops DO actually show up, so be ready for a good story.

As far as the gas goes, my car was out of commision for a similar period of time, albeit months longer, and I had the tank drained. Turns out the fuel wasn't really that bad, but it did smell "off." It also depends on how much gas you have in your tank now. If it's on the low side I would throw in some stabilizer and fill up the rest of the tank with fresh gas. If it's already full the gas itself may be okay.

fcfdfan

Thank you Tom93R1, your description of the method of using the compression checker made clear sense to me.

I agree about the gasoline. Now, the question is, what is the right way to drain the gas from the entire system?

I can siphon or pump the tank empty, but what about the rest of the fuel in the lines?

Is there a way to jack into the fuel system by unplugging at some point up at the engine and run the fuel pump off the battery so that I can pump the lines empty?

Are there potential problems with getting air in the fuel system as with the brake system?

Is there such a thing as a gas tank/fuel line cleaner additive I can use to clean the tank and lines?

Would it help to add an octane booster to the fresh gas I use for the Blow Out Procedure?

And the questions just keep on coming!

All suggestions much appreciated.

More info to come.

Nat

fcfdfan

Thanks, Clayne.

Stabilizer -- okay. And I will check on the gas level. Need to jump from my FC battery to see the fuel level.

Any other opinions on the gas issue?

Thanks, peeps.

adam c

iTrader: (2)

I wouldn't spend too much time on the gas issue. There is a good chance the engine may need a rebuild anyway. The car should run OK on old gas. It may not be perfect, but you just want to it to run AT ALL!!

fcfdfan

By the way, Clayne, you're right about the cops -- especially after this frikkin' Simi Valley fire, which is still cooking off as I write this.

I wouldn't be surprised if the cops show up. But that is another reason for the trailer. I simply indicate that the car is not legally allowed on the public roads and that there was no other way to deal with the car problem. I imagine some uptight cop could still fine me for something. I will simply let my the power of reason and my good intentions make my case.

Nat

911GT2

If you're reviving the car and getting it into driveable condition anyways, why not buy a dp, hi flow, and cat-back now and put it on in place of the clogged ones? Or even a used good condition stock pre-cat, cat, and cat-back. Theres gotta be a few of those in the for sale section.

Not sure about the gas though...

fcfdfan

Duly noted on the gas issue, adam c. You have a practical mind. I appreciate the input.

fcfdfan

You've got a good point, 911GT2.

I would like to have a driveable exhaust for the car to run it up the freeway at redline. But I should probably wait to see the condition of the engine before I spend anything on an exhaust.

If the car will run after the Blow Out procedure, I'll still have to trailer it home, reinstate it's legal driveable status with the DMV and my insurance before I take in on the street.

OF COURSE, I WOULDN'T BE SURPRISED IF THE FRIKKIN DMV WILL REQUIRE A SMOG CHECK

So I'm thinking I'll punch out the precat, etc., to be reinstalled for a quasi legal freeway run, assuming the engine will work.

But I'm definitely interested in a DP, high flow cat, etc., assuming I decide to upgrade the car instead of selling it as it. Still not sure what I want to do about the long range issue. But I know it will sell better as is if it runs and the compression is good.

Thanks for your input.

Nat

fcfdfan

Anybody with more insight on the bad gas issue?

mks

Depending on how much gas there's been in the tank while the car's been sitting, you might have collected a fair amount of water (through condensation) in the tank.

Just pull the rubber hose from the feed hardline inside the engine compartment by the firewall on the drivers side, put a longer hose on it, other end in some kind of drain bucket. Jump "GND" and "F/P" in the diagnostic connector with a paper clip, turn your key to "on" and wait for the pump to empty the tank. Reconnect the stock hose, fill her up with fresh gas, and run the pump for 30 seconds using the aforementioned method to get fresh gas in your fuel lines and you're good to go.

Smell, taste, burn and check out the old gas and decide wether you want to pour it back into the tank.

Good luck.

fcfdfan

NOW THAT, FOLKS, IS WHAT I CALL A YODA POST.

THANK YOU mks. I will check into this trick for sure and trynot to shoot sparks into the container of gasoline! Wouldn't that make for a funny post: how I burned my house down.

wonder1and

trailer it to a big parking lot... hang the *** off the trailer and pull the plug on the tank and let it empty out.... MAKE sure its a big parking lot. It will evaporate quickly anyway. Or use it to clean your driveway! scrub scrub scrub. Post in your forum (local) and see if you could get someones used DP & MP w/ cats in good working condition for cheap... hell I threw mine out! Do all the fluids... Do you know how to pull the intake manifold off? if so do the injector o-rings. Change the intakes... I have some w/ hardpipes if you need them. Gothamracing.com is having a sale on DP and MPs. (no cats) Change your radiator hoses if you want... make sure to pull the umm... egt fuse (guys correct me if I'm wrong) Its one of the bus fuses on the drivers side of the engine bay... This will keep your spark plugs from firing... causing some troubles... hook your battery to a charger while doing this to make sure you can start her up afterwards. I think it should take only a couple of Tblsp's of ATF when you go to start her up in each housing. If the cops ask anything about you making a bunch of smoke blame it on the ash from the fires They will just look at you and think Duh!
Check tires for splitting, could cause accident. You may want to take it easy on the car for a month after getting it running to make sure everything is settled if it runs. Injector cleaner wouldn't hurt. Change your plugs if you want along w/ the wires to get back up to date.

Good luck!
Ryker
P.S. as before as long as the #'s on the compression gauge look close to eachother 100+psi you should be cool.
P.P.S. Check all your vac lines and replace the one to your map sensor.

fcfdfan

Great suggestions Ryker! Thanks a ton!

Nat